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Van's retrofit locking fuel cap

BoilerFlyer

BoilerFlyer

Member
I received my QB wings last week and could not be any happier. I agonized over this decision for a long time, but in the end went with QB for any number of reasons. Anyways, as I'm going over the wings and planning for my own modifications, I continue to read about the dreaded Van's fuel caps. I see now that there are retrofit locking caps available, but they reduce the opening to 1.375in. Based on what I have read, it is an easy install with little more required than some sealant. Does anyone here have any experience with these retrofit caps? Recommend them? Stay away from them?

Thanks!
 
BoilerFlyer said:
I received my QB wings last week and could not be any happier. I agonized over this decision for a long time, but in the end went with QB for any number of reasons. Anyways, as I'm going over the wings and planning for my own modifications, I continue to read about the dreaded Van's fuel caps. I see now that there are retrofit locking caps available, but they reduce the opening to 1.375in. Based on what I have read, it is an easy install with little more required than some sealant. Does anyone here have any experience with these retrofit caps? Recommend them? Stay away from them?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I can't offer first person info regarding the upgraded caps but will suggest that since 98% (just a wag but probably pretty close) of the 10,000 or so RV's flying are using the standard cap, perhaps they are not as dreaded as some might make you think?
My usual answer when asked...... why not wait and see what you think of the standard caps. Since it is a simple retrofit the optional caps could be added anytime if you began to dread the originals.
 
BoilerFlyer said:
I received my QB wings last week and could not be any happier. I agonized over this decision for a long time, but in the end went with QB for any number of reasons. Anyways, as I'm going over the wings and planning for my own modifications, I continue to read about the dreaded Van's fuel caps. I see now that there are retrofit locking caps available, but they reduce the opening to 1.375in. Based on what I have read, it is an easy install with little more required than some sealant. Does anyone here have any experience with these retrofit caps? Recommend them? Stay away from them?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have the Andair replacements that are prosealed into the original fuel rings.

I replaced mine for two reasons:

1. The lever assemble on one cap broke inflight and I lost the cap, along with about ten gallons of fuel. (the tank was topped off)
2. Not a product issue, but I kept leaving them on the wing. I would usually catch it upon taxing, but did overlook it once. Fortunately, since the caps were engraved, it did make it's way home.

I did fly with the original caps for about three years.

The key lock doesn't really add any security, since the tanks can still be drained. It does help prevent non fuel items from being placed into the tanks, but I have to admit, that's a risk I'm not overly concerned about.

What I really like about the Andair locking caps is that I can't take the key our of them until the caps are locked. This prevents me from moving the RV-10 without having both caps in place and locked.
 
Quality ?NON? locking fuel caps

Does anyone know of any high quality ?non? locking fuel caps that just basically replace the stock caps? I?m really not interested in a locking cap but I would like to replace the standard cap with one of better quality and possibly one that I could have custom engraved.

Mark
 
Just a data point, but I have the standard stock caps and haven't had any issues in 3 years of flying. I also had them engraved.
 
I offer that your concerns are not founded.

My first RV is flying for 16 years with the orginal caps. Never a problem. The RV-10 is flying for 6 years. Never a problem.

I do carry a spare cap in the plane just in case. Never had to use it.

One side comment. I am not impressed with the new plastic caps used in the RV-14. Not sure is these are the locking caps you are referring to or not.

Carl
 
Thanks for the insights everyone - as always much appreciated. It can be difficult to see the forest for the trees sometimes as you build because many items that get posted are only about concerns. There are few threads entitled "Laundry list of things that went right today". :) Sounds like there are plenty of satisfied builders out there flying with original equipment.

Overall, I'd say it is less of an unfounded concern, or a concern at all, just as one builder put it "a data point." I certainly did not mean to overplay the "dreaded" card, but some threads here can certainly scare some builders! Looks like some great feedback and since there are many retrofit options out there, if I'm not happy with how they operate then that is a change I can make after I get flying.

Thanks again all!
 
Carry a spare

In 16 years flying my 8 with the original caps I have had two failures. In both cases it was a matter of a little ice forming in the release, snapping the roll pin. I carry a spare cap with me and have a bin full replacement roll pins.

Scott A Jordan
N733JJ
 
BoilerFlyer said:
It can be difficult to see the forest for the trees sometimes as you build because many items that get posted are only about concerns. .... but some threads here can certainly scare some builders!
Click to expand...
Two pieces of advice that really held up well of the course of my build, and continue to hold up after 6 years of flying:

1. paraphrasing Wally Anderson at SynergyAir build class: stay off the forums if you ever want to get your RV done. (I must admit I violated that rule, but deciding what to pay attention to and what not to is a necessary skill to learn.)​

2. paraphrasing someone I can't remember: the difference between a $60K RV and a $100K RV [speaking specifically of 2-seaters] are a lot of little decisions like this.​

Ditto to those above noting that the stock caps work just fine.

Good luck.
 
BoilerFlyer said:
Thanks for the insights everyone - as always much appreciated. It can be difficult to see the forest for the trees sometimes as you build because many items that get posted are only about concerns. There are few threads entitled "Laundry list of things that went right today". :) Sounds like there are plenty of satisfied builders out there flying with original equipment.

Overall, I'd say it is less of an unfounded concern, or a concern at all, just as one builder put it "a data point." I certainly did not mean to overplay the "dreaded" card, but some threads here can certainly scare some builders! Looks like some great feedback and since there are many retrofit options out there, if I'm not happy with how they operate then that is a change I can make after I get flying.

Thanks again all!
Click to expand...

Well put, and I didn't mean to imply that dreaded was being overly dramatic either.
Which is why I suggested that since it is such an easy retrofit, you could wait until you were flying and decide if what you have read was founded or not.

Even adding this upgrade after an airplane was painted would not be an issue (actually better in my opinion because then you have an unpainted rim around the opening that wont get all chipped up from fuel nozzles, etc.)
 
I put the Andair retro-fit locking caps in my -10 during the build. Very nice quality product and like Bob mentioned, keep the key attached with your ignition key and you will always have the caps on and locked before moving the plane under power. Another data point: I put the Vans Usher caps on the Cozy MKIV and hated trying to open them in the cold. It takes a while for the O ring seal to contract enough to get the cap off when its cold out. The other issue is the tab breaking off as others mentioned. We always carried a spare cap for that reason. The down side to the Andair caps is the narrower opening size makes it more difficult to see in the tank while filling. Its EZ to overfill and spill out if you are not paying close attention topping off the tanks. I also liked the idea of the Andair locking caps discouraging tampering from people who think they are being funny.
 
9GT said:
I put the Vans Usher caps on the Cozy MKIV and hated trying to open them in the cold. It takes a while for the O ring seal to contract enough to get the cap off when its cold out. The other issue is the tab breaking off as others mentioned.
Click to expand...

A lot of people aren't aware that the caps will usually open easily if after lifting the lever, you push down on it to un-compress the seal. This works in any temperature.

Typically it is not the tab that breaks, but the pivot (roll) pin that retains that retains it.
The caps do require some preventative maint. (lubrication) periodically to keep them working smoothly.
 
I did finally figure out the 'push to remove' trick after 100 hours or so, I try to tell every line person that trick when I travel.

My issue is getting the tab to lay flat when closing, I seem to always fly with my mini-spoilers deployed 5 degrees or so. :rolleyes: Any hints on that? Lubricating the O-ring seems to help some, but if I go beyond that it gets too loose, the tab does not stay secure, just keeps flipping mostly open.
 
catmandu said:
I did finally figure out the 'push to remove' trick after 100 hours or so, I try to tell every line person that trick when I travel.

My issue is getting the tab to lay flat when closing, I seem to always fly with my mini-spoilers deployed 5 degrees or so. :rolleyes: Any hints on that? Lubricating the O-ring seems to help some, but if I go beyond that it gets too loose, the tab does not stay secure, just keeps flipping mostly open.
Click to expand...

Try loosening the nut on the bottom of the cap a smidge. This can also help with hard to lift tabs too, but the caution is you don't want to make the cap too loose.
 
catmandu said:
I did finally figure out the 'push to remove' trick after 100 hours or so, I try to tell every line person that trick when I travel.

My issue is getting the tab to lay flat when closing, I seem to always fly with my mini-spoilers deployed 5 degrees or so. :rolleyes: Any hints on that? Lubricating the O-ring seems to help some, but if I go beyond that it gets too loose, the tab does not stay secure, just keeps flipping mostly open.
Click to expand...

Is this after you adjusted the cap to seal properly? The nut on the bottom is a locking nut. You adjust the seal gap (the O ring slot width) by loosening the nut and turning the bottom part of the cap until the gap provides a seal when the lever is down. Once set, you re-tighten the locking nut.

Carl
 
There has been at least 3 versions of the cap over the years.
One of the versions had a UHMW plastic glide plate at the bottom of the cavity that the latch lever lays in.
It never held up well and over time will cause the lever to not snap to a fully closed position.
The problem can also be caused when caps haven't been lubricated and the cam portion of the lever gets worn.
 
I haven't looked yet but doesn't Aircraft Spruce sell locking gas caps that will fit? Is it possible to have the door, baggage door, and locking gas cap be the same key?
 
Carl Froehlich said:
Is this after you adjusted the cap to seal properly? The nut on the bottom is a locking nut. You adjust the seal gap (the O ring slot width) by loosening the nut and turning the bottom part of the cap until the gap provides a seal when the lever is down. Once set, you re-tighten the locking nut.

Carl
Click to expand...

That is a very good description. I have played with the locking nut and bottom plate, but will have another go at it again with that information. Stand by.
 
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