Let's Talk Baldor Bench Grinders for a Minute

I'm in the market for a decent bench grinder to replace the Craftsman which is on its last leg, and I'm leaning toward shelling out the bucks for a Baldor. From the little I could glean on this site and others, everyone loves the quality and the small-diameter motors. I'm just a little confused on what exactly to get for RV work. Baldor makes so many different models that it's hard to decide.

I'm leaning toward a 6", since that's the diameter of the Scotchbrite wheels I'm using, but what's the difference between the "grinders" and the "buffers" other than the lack of the wheel guards? Also, any thoughts on horsepower ratings? I'm leaning toward 1/3hp, but that's just an arbitrary decision so far.

Cleaveland Tool sells the Baldor 111 6" Buffer (pictured below left), but I could also get a similar Baldor 612 6" Grinder (below right), complete with wheels and guards for less money. I'm assuming the guards are removable for Scotchbrite polishing? Looks like maybe the buffer has a longer spindle to move the buffing wheel out away from the motor housing?

These are just two random examples, and if anybody has other recommendations, I'd sure appreciate them! Thanks.

In addition to your observations, you may find that the RPM is different, (buffer may be in the 3600 range, grinder in the 1700 range, depending on intended application). Just something to check.

I'm running my scotchbrite on a chinamart buffer, FWIW.

Get the grinder, you can remove the guards if you needed. But the buffer will always be a buffer.

The arbor on the buffers are also further away from the motor for additional clearance in addition to speed difference. Spend the money for a good grinder and buy yourself a cheap buffer from Harbor Freight.

I have the Baldor Buffer, and a Cheap Grinder

Strictly related to building RV's, you will use the Grinder very little but the Buffer you will use every day. The extended shaft allows you to get a flatter angle making it easier to clean up the edges especially on large sheet.
Is it overkill?, perhaps, but the Buffer is smooth, quite, powerful, and one of my most prized power tools in my shop.

Brian,

I used the Scotchbrite wheel in my drill press, spinning at its lowest setting. This worked out very well. Lots and lots of access.

Remember, you should never use a bench grinder for shaping aluminum. Do a search, if you need to know why.

N941WR said:

Remember, you should never use a bench grinder for shaping aluminum. Do a search, if you need to know why.

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Having done this search before a few times, I can summarize: If you use a conventional stone grinding wheel, it will clog up really fast and stop grinding. A dressing tool will clean the wheel and then you can start grinding again, but this is a tedious process.

A better solution is to get a proper aluminum grinding wheel, which is available. Essentially they're a rubber-like base material with grit embedded and they'll grind through aluminum all day long (or at least until they wear down).

There is anecdotal evidence of fires happening at aluminum grinding factories, and of grinding discs exploding. But I can find no actual documented cases where grinding aluminum was the cause of either.

N941WR said:

Remember, you should never use a bench grinder for shaping aluminum...

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I am assuming that you mean don't use a stone grining wheel to shape aluminum - right? I use my bench grinder all the time - with a Scotchbrite Wheel in place of the stone - to shape and debur aluminum.

Paul

Ironflight said:

I am assuming that you mean don't use a stone grining wheel to shape aluminum - right? I use my bench grinder all the time - with a Scotchbrite Wheel in place of the stone - to shape and debur aluminum.

Paul

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Paul,

You are correct.

One other thing, you don't want to grind or sand ferrous metal (steel & iron) parts and then use the same wheel/sand paper on aluminum as you will push small bits of the steel/iron into your aluminum, causing corrosion later on.

You Need Both

Changing wheels is a pain, so get a decent grinder then get a cheap buffer from Harbor Freight. My buffer was just $39.99 and I love it.

Get the best you can afford.

I used a Craftsman grinder and it has lasted the entire aircraft build with no issues. Works great.
I have a Baldor (actually is the guys in the hanger next to me but it has been in my hanger for several years) buffer as you have pictured. Great little machine. Smooth, quiet, and works great.
Get what you can afford but buying better tools is always a great investment and the jobs go faster and easier with good tools.
My recommendation: Craftmen Grinder, Baldor buffer.

Snowflake said:

Having done this search before a few times, I can summarize: If you use a conventional stone grinding wheel, it will clog up really fast and stop grinding. A dressing tool will clean the wheel and then you can start grinding again, but this is a tedious process.

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You can avoid most of the clogging problem by loading your wheel with wax before use. I keep a chunk of parrafin handy to dress my grinding wheels, sanding disks, band saw blades and files before working with soft metals like aluminum. They all clean up easily with a good coat of wax.

Very important

If grinding aluminum then please make sure there the grinder and floor is clean and there is no ferrous material left over. When grinding steel make sure there is no leftover aluminum on the grinder and floor. Aluminum and ferrous grinding debris don't like each other.

Johhny stick

johnny stick said:

If grinding aluminum then please make sure there the grinder and floor is clean and there is no ferrous material left over. When grinding steel make sure there is no leftover aluminum on the grinder and floor. Aluminum and ferrous grinding debris don't like each other.

Johhny stick

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What happens when the two meet? Thermite?