So I ran my Whelen strobe cable from each wing root thru the wire run holes in the seat ribs just aft of the spar. Halfway thru the cable has to pass by the aluminum bracket which bolts to the spar for the contol stick mounts. It rubs against the stick mount. Is there a better way to route this cable from the wing root to the power supply behind the baggage bulkhead or is there a good way to buffer the cable against abrasion from the bracket? (this is the 3+1 gray shielded cable for high volts). I'm just not sure if this is the correct routing but I see no other as the seat pans and baggage floor are riveted... Appreciate any suggestions! Thanks, Jim
Van's Air Force
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Strobe cable routing
- Thread starter Jimzim
- Start date
Believe it or not it is difficult to visualize
I have my strobes and control unit in essentially the same places in our RV-6A, I am very sensitive to routing, contact, abrasion protection, etc. and I routed the wiring safely and secured through grommeted holes aft of the lightening hole where the aileron and elevator sticks, interface yokes, tie rods, push rods, etc. are thrashing around but any way you can get from A to B with good wiring practice free of unprotected contact and reasonable secure in its routing is a good start. All the different models have their own problems/challenges. This photo was taken on 11-30-2003 and you should be able to clearly see the gray Whelen cables coming in from the sides with the rest of the wire bundle then going aft below the push rod. Flying since March 2004 - no physical or functional problems including interference.
Bob Axsom
I have my strobes and control unit in essentially the same places in our RV-6A, I am very sensitive to routing, contact, abrasion protection, etc. and I routed the wiring safely and secured through grommeted holes aft of the lightening hole where the aileron and elevator sticks, interface yokes, tie rods, push rods, etc. are thrashing around but any way you can get from A to B with good wiring practice free of unprotected contact and reasonable secure in its routing is a good start. All the different models have their own problems/challenges. This photo was taken on 11-30-2003 and you should be able to clearly see the gray Whelen cables coming in from the sides with the rest of the wire bundle then going aft below the push rod. Flying since March 2004 - no physical or functional problems including interference.
Bob Axsom
Hole in Control Stick Bracket
I drilled a 5/8" hole in the control stick bracket. I went through a long involved process to locate the hole. I think I made a special center punch (out of a bolt) that was centered in the snap bushings on the two adjacent ribs. With the hole center located by the punch, removed the control stick bracket and drilled the hole. It turns out that the forward edge of the hole is just about flush with the leg of the control stick bracket and there is plenty of material aft of the hole to transmit the loads. Once it was done, it almost looked like Van's had intended a hole to be there, but of course nothing like this is shown on the plans.
No I didn't discuss it with Van's. Yes I think it is more than strong enough with the 5/8" hole. Yes I think it is far preferable than trying to route a wire bundle or an antenna around the back of the control stick bracket to line up with the 5/8" holes in the ribs. Sorry, no pix.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in the control stick bracket. I went through a long involved process to locate the hole. I think I made a special center punch (out of a bolt) that was centered in the snap bushings on the two adjacent ribs. With the hole center located by the punch, removed the control stick bracket and drilled the hole. It turns out that the forward edge of the hole is just about flush with the leg of the control stick bracket and there is plenty of material aft of the hole to transmit the loads. Once it was done, it almost looked like Van's had intended a hole to be there, but of course nothing like this is shown on the plans.
No I didn't discuss it with Van's. Yes I think it is more than strong enough with the 5/8" hole. Yes I think it is far preferable than trying to route a wire bundle or an antenna around the back of the control stick bracket to line up with the 5/8" holes in the ribs. Sorry, no pix.
OneCharlieKilo
Well Known Member
-6A routing I used
There are some pictures on some of my electrical system web pages of how I routed my cables from behind the bagage compartment bukhead where I put the power supply. I ran along lower part of baggage compartment sides, under the covering side panels, then into floor pan and out side to wings. Can do this with the baggage and floor riveting done but the seat pans removed. This has worked fine for nearly 300 flight hours.
Not a single page dedicated to it, but here are some page links that might help and selected pictures (you should recognize the grey strobe cable):
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg4.htm
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg6.htm
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg8.htm
There are some pictures on some of my electrical system web pages of how I routed my cables from behind the bagage compartment bukhead where I put the power supply. I ran along lower part of baggage compartment sides, under the covering side panels, then into floor pan and out side to wings. Can do this with the baggage and floor riveting done but the seat pans removed. This has worked fine for nearly 300 flight hours.
Not a single page dedicated to it, but here are some page links that might help and selected pictures (you should recognize the grey strobe cable):
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg4.htm
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg6.htm
http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelAndElectrical/electrical/electricalPg8.htm
