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  #21  
Old 07-29-2010, 06:49 PM
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apkp777 apkp777 is offline
 
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Phil,
I had talked to ECI about break in and maybe some of the VAF experts will correct me, but I was told that nickel/carbide cylinders break in within minutes and don't really have the "glazing" troubles of chrome. Neither are they as heat intolerant during break in.

I actually thought your Oil temps seemed a bit high. Yours are where mine were at when I first flew. Still, it'll take about 30 hours (IMO) for temps to normalize.

Back to your original post about cowl exhaust trimming, I'd wait. I have a set of uninstalled Louvers to show for my own concerns. In the end, I am pretty happy with my temps right now. My #1 cylinder still gets hot in climb (440 or so).
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2010, 06:57 PM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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Default Oh yes...

back to your thread, no extra cutting at all on the bottom of my cowl from in line with the bottom of the firewall.
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  #23  
Old 07-29-2010, 07:52 PM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Quote:
but I was told that nickel/carbide cylinders break in within minutes
Bart said something similar... that most of hte break-in would have already happened when they did the 1.5 hour "run-in". But if that's the case, why would it take hours for temps to stabilize? My understanding is that the high temps during break-in are caused by the metal on metal contact as the cylinder rings are pushed against the cylinder walls and etch themselves into a perfect match. If this is done within minutes, then shouldn't the temps come down immediately?
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  #24  
Old 07-29-2010, 08:24 PM
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Paul, the tolerances in the engine are tight at first. Those will open up as the moving parts mate with each other. Excess heat is the by-product. The seating of the piston rings to the barrel is of concern in the critical first few hours. That's why it's important to run at a high power setting. The rings need to "grind" into the barrel early on to stop blow by and oil consumption.
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  #25  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by prkaye View Post
Thanks Vern. I can't get out to the airport again to inspect things until mid next week, but I will look for the flashing then. My engine is an overhauled O-320 with new ECI cylidners. Would the new cylinders include new cooling fins (that might have this flashing stuck between them), or would the cooling fins be the original ones? When they replace cylinders, I'm just not sure what this typically includes.

Can you describe what to look for regarding these flashings? What do they look like? Would they be under the engine paint?

I think it makes sense to wait until after break-in to determine whether I need to get my carb re-jetted... do you agree?
If you have new cylinders, you shoul check for the flashings. The cooling fins should have slots that are unobstructed between the plugs. I don't have pics handy, but there are some on the internet if you search.

As for re-jetting, you should determine if you need to do it right away. When in flight, try leaning the engine. If you can't find a lean peak and are then able to go 100F rich of peak, you are already too lean and need the carb rejetted. All of my RV buddies have had to do this in order to get lower CHTs at takeoff and a distinctive lean peak.

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