Hole deburring main & rear spars

Okay here is a dumb question for -7 &-8 wing builders. I'm putting the finishing touches on my wing skeleton before final assembly. With all the ribs riveted in place, how in the world can you deburr between the ribs & the spar flanges? I'm refering to the joints where the skins attach the spar & ribs. There are 5 holes per rib that you obviously can't get to to deburr the spar flanges not the back side of the rib attach tabs. 4 holes on the front of the rib & 1 on the rear spar flange. my only reason fo asking is that I'm finding some pretty nasty burrs on the back side of the main spar flange where we counter sink for skin dimples. Do I try to get some sand paper in there or just let the burrs live where they are (if there are any)? I used a reamer but after counter sinking, Im finding a decent amount of deburring is needed on the back side of the spar flanges. I dont want a wing folding on me because of some little burrs (that's sarcasm).

Easy

Scotchbright

I like the red for edges, and gray for skin surfaces.

Knock yourself out!

I don't get it. If you can get a bucking bar in, you should at least be able to get a unibit in there by hand. I wouldn't scotch my pretty anodizing.

aerhed said:

I don't get it. If you can get a bucking bar in, you should at least be able to get a unibit in there by hand. I wouldn't scotch my pretty anodizing.

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I think Daniel is talking about BETWEEN the rib flange and spar. You can't get in between the parts to deburr. Prevention is better than cure in this case. Make sure the parts are clamped tightly, use a new sharp bit, and there won't be a burr between the sheets.

Daniel, you might give a chip chaser a try. It's mainly used for getting loose chips out from between drilled sheets, but it MIGHT work for you here. You might also try wrapping a piece of sandpaper around the end of a thin steel rule.

I think Daniel is talking about BETWEEN the rib flange and spar.

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Ah! In that case I agree with maybe a sharp edge strip of aluminum for a chip chaser and maybe some sandpaper with the paper towards the spar for the rib holes. I still wouldn't sand the anodizing, I'd just pick away at the burrs with a sharp flat tool like a chaser.

That riveting spec on Van's site says that the contact between sheets does not need deburring. Of course, if you're opening it up anyway, then you should - just opening it and reclosing it could get a burr in the hole.

Dave

Thanks guys. Miles, thank you for clarifying for me... You knew exactly what I meant... Slid a chip chaser in the & nothing... For giggles, I gave the in-out deburr tool a whirl. That about all I can do. It is what it is at this point. I sometimes hate that I'm so anal i building this thing.