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Tube Flaring Question

ppilotmike

ppilotmike

Well Known Member
I have a Rigid 37 degree Ratcheting Flaring tool, which seems to make good flares. However, the instructions say to insert the tube until it's flush with the top of the clamp halves. When I do this the flares come out nicely, but seem to be slightly too large in diameter to allow the threaded nut to slide easily over them. I can spin the nut on, with the flare traveling in the threads of the nut, but I want to know if this is normal.

The fine print of the flaring tool says that the flare can be made smaller or larger by adjusting either "just long" or "just short" of flush (what a cop out!). I know the RoloFlair tool has a stop to perfectly set the length of tubing every time.

I guess my question is: What's normal? Is the flare supposed to ride in the threads or not?
 
You may be over tightening the tool, and expanding the flair just a tiny bit.

You can always reduce the OD a bit with a gentle application of the deburring wheel.
 
Mike S said:
You may be over tightening the tool, and expanding the flair just a tiny bit.

You can always reduce the OD a bit with a gentle application of the deburring wheel.
Click to expand...

The tool is ratcheted to stop any "over-tightening. Basically, it turns the former into the tube, pressing/forming the flare until a certain resistance is reached, then the ratchet trips and allows free movement. I was going to do the deburring wheel thing, as you suggest, but wanted to check that they weren't supposed to be that size first. So, you're saying they should slide freely without hitting the threads, right Mike?
 
I think I have the same tool as you a Rigid No. 377. I haven't had any problems with the flare being oversize when it's set up so the tube is flush with the body of the tool prior to flaring. I'm not sure if the ratchet handle is adjustable, you might check with Rigid.

The maximum size of the flare should be only a little larger than the sleeve and definitely not so big the flare nut threads interfere.
 
Thanks guys!

Supportive and informative, as usual. I will check my "A" dimensions with the calipers from now on. I can't see any way to adjust the tool, so I'll probably have to find the sweet spot, depth-wise and perhaps make myself a stop to take the guesswork out of it. Carry on.
 
Hey Mike, if you use the wheel to clean up the end, make REAL sure you clean out the tube! I used brake fluid spray from one end and blew it out the other. I borrowed a flaring tool from flyinmonque and it is working real nice. All my flares have been perfect! I haven't tested them yet, but they must be perfect!!

Actually, I am putting together a list of lengths so I can get them made if they leak when I do test them...

I may be down Tuesday afternoon - heading to SNF on Wed. If I get down early enough, I would like to see your progress. Talk later.
 
Mike--I have the same tool that I bought from Tom Brink at GAHCO. I have to adjust the end of the tube just slightly to make perfect flares. 1/32 of an inch in length makes the difference. I use if on both aluminum and stainless, and no the flare should not contact the threads. You can dress the edge of the flare on a belt sander, or with a file. I usually dress mine to give just a wider tube wall at the flare, to eliminate the possibility of it ever cracking. Many years, many flares, no issues.
Tom
 
Somewhat Related Flaring Question

Mike and I were discussing this the other night after he showed me what his was doing, and I told him to post it to VAF. I am using the Parker Rolo Flare Tool and have another form-factor question. My flares on the 3/16 pitot lines seem to have a very small rise at the base of the flare that seems to come from the separation of the dies.

It is very small and could also probably be dressed out with the scotch brite wheel, but I guess I was wondering if other folks have experienced the same thing and if this is a result of tightening the tool too much or not enough, or if this is just normal and considered to be a non-issue for that tool.

Thanks.
 
Bryan, different dies and tools can make different marks. Mine at the 'real job" makes some that are caused by the dies compressing the tube, and then flaring forces the tube aft. Creates a small die depression. I generally polish it out. It doesnt go as far as the trailing edge of the flare.
My RFT37 doesnt make any depressions. If you do have some, you can polish them out.
 
Thanks Tom!

Good information, all of it. I will try to become a "flare master" now using these new techniques. ;)

Rock,

If you want to come by Tuesday afternoon, that would be swell.

Mike
 
related flare question....

... I'm having a problem with flares in that I'm getting a circumferential ridge (or maybe it's a groove, hard to tell) on the inside face of the flare, about halfway up the flare. The rest of the flare has a nice burnished face to it, and appears normal. I thought at first there was a gouge or debris on the cone of the flaring tool, so I have polished that mirror smooth. Only thing I can think of now is that I'm not getting the tubing ID deburred properly and that this ring on my flare face was the tube ID before the flare. Anyone have any comments on my problem, I could post a photo for more explanation.
Thanks
 
Clam, make sure the tubing and the flaring cone of the tool are clean. I apply some boelube on the cone and it helps lubricate and burnish the flare.

Bird
 
thank

Thanks Tom, I have seen your link/techniques before. I use similar techniques, and still get the "ring" on the face of the flare so its my belief that the tool is defective. There does appear to be some roughness on the forming cone and I think that is what is causing the problem. I am exchanging the tool for a new one and will press on. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Thanks for the appreciation!

clam said:
Thanks Tom, I have seen your link/techniques before. I use similar techniques, and still get the "ring" on the face of the flare so its my belief that the tool is defective. There does appear to be some roughness on the forming cone and I think that is what is causing the problem. I am exchanging the tool for a new one and will press on. Thanks for the feedback.
Click to expand...

I have not seen better than the rigid flare tool, unless you get the full hydraulic setup.

Never flare heat treated and hardened material using a hand operated flaring tool.
with what we are doing it would not be necessary.
 
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