I am having a h#** of a time getting my canopy frame to even some what match what the drawings call for. The contour of the front bow compared to the roll bar is WAY off. I took some measurements from the center (of the canopy frame) down the sides and found that there is 1/2" difference in length between the center of the upper center bar and the centers of the two lower side bars (bows). This makes for about a 1/2" difference in the contours between the roll bar and the forward bow of the canopy frame on the right side. I called Vans and the guy told me to shift the canopy frame off center to make up for it. That would look like poo not to mention it wouldn't solve my problem. I'm tempted to order another canopy frame to see if it would be any better. Only problem with that is they cost $250 and shipping would probably be $2500. Has anyone else had this problem? This is the old style canopy frame that is made up of round tubing instead of the square tubing for the side bows. The Vans guy also recommended either shimming or cutting the canopy frame and re-welding. Shimming 1/2" is not an option in my opinion and hacking up the frame and rewelding seems like an extreme measure to go to. Any advice would be appreciated.
Van's Air Force
Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.
Canopy frame issues....
- Thread starter db9469
- Start date
Hate to say it
But if Van's can not be persuaded to make good on the quality of this part by replacing it, then the best probable alternative is to have a local fabricator cut and weld and add as necessary to make the frame symetrical (assuming you don't have those skills yourself).
You most certainly would beat the $250.00 + freight cost of a new one (I wonder if they still even have any older roundbar frames???).
The other hassle will be painting/repairing the finish, but simple paint should do it.
Any builders/EAA'ers/ tube and fabric guys nearby that can help "Dave in Dallas"??
But if Van's can not be persuaded to make good on the quality of this part by replacing it, then the best probable alternative is to have a local fabricator cut and weld and add as necessary to make the frame symetrical (assuming you don't have those skills yourself).
You most certainly would beat the $250.00 + freight cost of a new one (I wonder if they still even have any older roundbar frames???).
The other hassle will be painting/repairing the finish, but simple paint should do it.
Any builders/EAA'ers/ tube and fabric guys nearby that can help "Dave in Dallas"??
Last edited:
frame
I just recieved my finish kit 2 months ago and it had canopy frame made of round tubing im installing my canopy now it the most challaging part of the whole project im working in temps from 40 to 70 on plex canopy using a cut off wheel supplied with finish kit and #30 bits and a unibit to enlarge holes and im using micro stop countersink like Vans said in inst. so far so good everthing is cut and drilled and starting to fasten on frame I know ill get flamed for saying this but I dont think its a good idea to heat it up.
Tailwinds bob
I just recieved my finish kit 2 months ago and it had canopy frame made of round tubing im installing my canopy now it the most challaging part of the whole project im working in temps from 40 to 70 on plex canopy using a cut off wheel supplied with finish kit and #30 bits and a unibit to enlarge holes and im using micro stop countersink like Vans said in inst. so far so good everthing is cut and drilled and starting to fasten on frame I know ill get flamed for saying this but I dont think its a good idea to heat it up.
Tailwinds bob
Canopy frame
The canopy is a bash to fit, paint to match process.
No two are alike.
The RV-6/7/9 with sliders are the hardest to build due to the size.
The two frames, roll bar and canopy frame will never match.
You are not going to bend the roll bar, so bend the frame to match.
Take a 2X4 about 8" long and cut a shallow curve (on the flat side) with a band saw on one side of it. Smooth out the curve on the sanders and then take the board over to you bench and bolt it to the bench top about in the middle of the bench. This will serve as your bender. I had my roll bar attached to the plane and then would take the canopy frame on/off and just keep bending it until I got a close fit. You just lay the frame up on it's front bow and bend it over the curved block in the spots you need to match. When you bend one spot it WILL change the fit in another so you are going to be doing this until it's close. SHIM THE REST on either side of the frame/roll bar wit nylon washers to get the two heights of the canopy to match one another at each spot where there is a screw or rivet.
Your roll bar fairing will cover the shims on the roll bar
The canopy shims can be painted to match your frame so they don't stand out.
IF you go and buy and new frame, it will be the same issue.
Unless the one you have has serious errors in it.
The canopy is a bash to fit, paint to match process.
No two are alike.
The RV-6/7/9 with sliders are the hardest to build due to the size.
The two frames, roll bar and canopy frame will never match.
You are not going to bend the roll bar, so bend the frame to match.
Take a 2X4 about 8" long and cut a shallow curve (on the flat side) with a band saw on one side of it. Smooth out the curve on the sanders and then take the board over to you bench and bolt it to the bench top about in the middle of the bench. This will serve as your bender. I had my roll bar attached to the plane and then would take the canopy frame on/off and just keep bending it until I got a close fit. You just lay the frame up on it's front bow and bend it over the curved block in the spots you need to match. When you bend one spot it WILL change the fit in another so you are going to be doing this until it's close. SHIM THE REST on either side of the frame/roll bar wit nylon washers to get the two heights of the canopy to match one another at each spot where there is a screw or rivet.
Your roll bar fairing will cover the shims on the roll bar
The canopy shims can be painted to match your frame so they don't stand out.
IF you go and buy and new frame, it will be the same issue.
Unless the one you have has serious errors in it.
Last edited:
I made a radius block and a template of the curvature of the l/h side which was perfect and was able to bend the r/h side to match. I'm now satisfied with the aft part of the frame. As for the forward bow, I guess I'll just shim as necessary to make everything match. There's really not much that can be done with it short of cutting it and welding in another piece that's longer. Thanks for the advice!
