E-703 extreme end rivetting

Hi,

I have been cursing, shouting, drilling out multiple and close to crying

Due to the construction order (because of the local inspection requirements), I have rivetted only one side of the elevators. Now that inspection is done, I tried to close the skins but realised that the farest extreme end rivet near the bend on elevator skin on E-703 is almost impossible to set if you cannot stretch the rib a little bit (which is impossible if you already rivetted the other side.

Anybody has a suggestion on how I can set in that tiny opening. I used various bucking alternatives such as the narrow bucking bar from avery, a screwdriver head, backrivetting. Nothing seems to work.

Is it allowed to put a pop rivet in there ? and if yes, which one.

get a no hole squeezer yoke, works wonders, if not, use a flush pop rivet

I have the no hole squeezer but even that is too thick for the end of the E-703.

I guess the MKS 319 BS should be fine

Hi Jurgen,

Try this Indirect Riveting Technique ....

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=5337092001

If it does not work on your 703, you might be able to use it elsewhere.

pk

You may be horrified, but grind your no-hole yoke down. Do it on the outside, just deep enough for your need and just back far enough from the tip to fit in there. Unless you plan to drive AD-4 rivets, you won't notice any loss of strength there; you probably won't notice it even so because you will only be removing a little material at the tip of the yoke.

Drill out to 7/64 and use a MK319. The VANS philosophy is to specify a solid rivet unless there is absolutely no chance of setting it. After 2 years or so of frustration with difficult-to-set rivets, I "embraced" the pulled rivet You just have to be circumspect if the area is seriously structural.

pkill said:

Hi Jurgen,

Try this Indirect Riveting Technique ....

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=5337092001

If it does not work on your 703, you might be able to use it elsewhere.

pk

Click to expand...

If you use the way shown in this link bare in mind that the shop head will be set at an angle. If you put a spacer under the shop head side to level it it will look better. Hope this makes since.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I tried the indirect rivetting technique but it didn't work out. Maybe I didn't get the right bucking plate.
I also had the tilted shop head result with my narrow bucking bar item660 at avery)

I contacted Van's and they also suggested a MKS319BS pop rivet.
I rather have two nice sitting pop rivets on the bottom side of each elevator then to enlarge the hole, get frustrated and make a mess.

Pre-set rivets

I have had good success in tight locations with "pre-setting" the rivet. Use your squeezer and squeeze the rivet just enough so the shank, which is now a bit larger diameter, will just fit through the dimpled hole. The rivet is now shorter and gives just a bit more clearance for a no hole yoke, or a custom bucking bar. I've used both methods to finally set the rivet.