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Trailing Edge on Rudder

I built the brake that Vans recommends and bent the trailing edge of the rudder. I'm unable to bend any further because the brake is closed to the point where the stiffeners are touching the other side. It appears I got a decent radius, but the skin is still approx 1" above the spar without clecos installed. I'm not sure how to bend the edge any further given the stiffeners are touching the other side. Any comments or suggestions on the current bend and how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. We are first time builders and don't want to plow forward if something is obviously wrong. :confused:

Thanks!

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It looks like it needs to be bent a bit more to me. What I did was take two one by four boards and used some large Clamps to clamp them on each side of skin. Carefully tighten and position so that you are compressing only the portion near the trailing edge and are not getting the stiffeners to contact the opposite skin. Take your time and you will end up with a good result. It you get slight variations due to the fact the board bow or something you can make local adjustments using a hand seamer. Again go slow, take you time and you will end up with a good result. Same for the elevators....

Richard Bibb
RV-4 N144KT
 
Had that problem on my RV-3B and solved it by tapering the stiffeners more than the plans said.

Also, I noticed that you hadn't yet cleaned up the as-sheared edge of the rib flanges. Worth doing, I think, to avoid cracks later.

Dave
 
I built the brake that Vans recommends and bent the trailing edge of the rudder. I'm unable to bend any further because the brake is closed to the point where the stiffeners are touching the other side. It appears I got a decent radius, but the skin is still approx 1" above the spar without clecos installed. I'm not sure how to bend the edge any further given the stiffeners are touching the other side. Any comments or suggestions on the current bend and how to proceed would be greatly appreciated. We are first time builders and don't want to plow forward if something is obviously wrong. :confused:

Thanks!

I took the advice of others and changed the setup of my brake. Rather than apply pressure from the 6" portion of a 2X6 I used the 2" portion. You mention that your skin lays about 1" above the spar. I had exactly the same thing but a straight edge showed me I still had more bending to do. When I was done the skin would lay nearly closed on the spar without clecos in the top. I have pictures here. Posts 12 and 13 are the rudder.
 
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I borrowed the brake pictured below from a local RV-7 builder who happens to be a retired carpenter. This orientation is stiffer than using the boards flat, making a more consistent bend across the length, as well as providing a place to use clamps as handles for more leverage.

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Hi Eric and George

I go along with the beefier brake - check out my log entry - all worked out nice and straight and aircraft flew wings level hands off, not just control trailing edge I know but every little bit helps
 
Thanks!

I appreciate all the help! You guys solved my problem. I reversed the brake and applied pressure with the 2" side of the boards. Below are the results.

Before......

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After......

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Brake.....

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you will be just fine.

You can work your brake and get this done, but I see you are just starting at this. You may wish to get some wood dowels 1/4", 1/8", 3/16" and such. Tape one in the very bottom of the radius with masking tape. A small strip an inch or two long, every 8-10 inches is all you need to hold the rod in place. Then as others have said go slow with a pair of seaming pliers along the trailing edge. The reason I tell you this is it is a trick that you will grow to like down the road on other parts even after you start flying it. Just remember "Go slow in small bites". Yours as always R.E.A. III # 80888
 
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