Top of Trim Spar

I got a head of myself and dimpled both sides of the trim spar before completely reading the manual. I have now read that the top side of the E-606PP needs to be machine countersunk. I looked at the plans and it appears the hinge pin is the reason for this.

Is that indeed the case? Is my E-606PP now junk and I'm required once again to purchase from the "list"?

Use flat sets and squeeze the dimples back flat. Machine counter sink and move on. Tried and true by many of your predecessors.
Good luck.

Just for reference,
I chose to dimple my trim tab skin, trim tab spar, and the hinge. It worked out fine. The hinge material is soft and didn`t distort when I dimpled and riveted it. I don`t know what you mean exactly about the hinge pin. Mine slides in fine.

I used a flat set, and everything looks fine. Thanks for the replies. I've read countless times that the manual can be messed up. It just would be nice to know why things are done or not done so screw ups wouldn't occur. Just venting.

Read the instruction 20 times when you get to the fuel tank Z brackets then!

Just one word of caution and advice.

If you push back the dimples using the flat dies. Use the manual squeezer.
If you use the pneumatic squeezer with the flat dies, and they are closed too much, it will form a small deformation of the area (thinner) making the aluminum expand a little to the outside. One wont hurt, but if you squeeze back the hole line of rivet holes, you will end up with a serious deformation and bow in the trim spar.
Ask me how I know...