Engine Build Options - Services

With the time to order an engine right around the corner, I'm researching what options exist and are popular when building an engine. I'm speaking of the little things that can make a more efficient / dependable / powerful engine. I've tried looking through endless threads but can't get many details. It'd be nice to have a good list for the options that a E/AB builder can ask an engine shop to do along with setting expectations and wish lists to compare pricing.

Here are the examples I've come up with:

Crankshaft balancing
Crankshaft counterweight (depends on the prop you are running)
Case machining to accept O-ring (Ly Con only I believe)
Case machined to have O-rings around through bolts
Matched piston / rod assemblies (2 grams seems to be the standard)
Increased compression pistons
Coatings on pistons, valves, springs (special coating?)
Flow matched cylinders
Porting and polishing cylinders
Roller rocker arms (mixed opinions on this versus the flat tappet)
Cold air induction
Cyro treatment for cylinders and pistons (Ly-con option)
Performance camshaft profile
Custom paint (obviously not a performance booster, just a build option)
Dyno testing / break in

I don't mean to start debates on these, which is better and what not. This is just a list of options out there for those of us that may not know engines like the back of our hand! I'm purposely leaving off injection and ignition options, as those are discussed at length on this forum and are easily searched.

So what other tips, tricks, soup ups, hot rod, better to do now than later, etc. items can we add to the list?

Thanks!

WD-ND and Roller-Slipper

The always popular discussion on whether you start with a Narrow Deck or Wide Deck case.

Followed by building with the older "standard" camshaft/followers vs. newer roller followers discussion.

majuro15 said:

So what other tips, tricks, soup ups, hot rod, better to do now than later, etc. items can we add to the list?

Click to expand...

Start with a realistic assessment.

(1) The subject airframe is a family SUV. As such, priority goes to reliability and long term durability.

(2) Drag reduction and weight reduction are both more effective than HP increase, and rarely have long term costs.

(3) A high percentage of builders can't effectively cool an installation with stock HP. Additional power is useless if you can't cool it.

(4) "Optionitis" is a real disease, one that is hard to avoid. Remember Hannibal Lecter's line..."We covet what we see"?

The point? A stock 540 will fly your RV-10 very well. If you do choose assembly options, go for precision, not hot-rodding. Low stress is good for you, your family, and your wallet.

Tim---you might add to that list the actual engine builder, and see what options they offer.

Tom

DanH said:

Start with a realistic assessment.

(1) The subject airframe is a family SUV. As such, priority goes to reliability and long term durability.

(2) Drag reduction and weight reduction are both more effective than HP increase, and rarely have long term costs.

(3) A high percentage of builders can't effectively cool an installation with stock HP. Additional power is useless if you can't cool it.

(4) "Optionitis" is a real disease, one that is hard to avoid. Remember Hannibal Lecter's line..."We covet what we see"?

The point? A stock 540 will fly your RV-10 very well. If you do choose assembly options, go for precision, not hot-rodding. Low stress is good for you, your family, and your wallet.

Click to expand...

Ah, such dead on wisdom! I think you should start each post with "Hear Me Now And Believe Me Later!"

This is like reading a statement from Warren Buffet as he talks about investing.

I think I am going to start calling you the "Oracle of Wetumpka"!

majuro15 said:

Here are the examples I've come up with:

Case machining to accept O-ring (Ly Con only I believe)
Thanks!

Click to expand...

I was tempted to have that done on my engine. In order to make sure it was viable I talked to Lycoming about doing that do one of our club planes first. Lycoming's reaction wasn't what I expected. I was told that if you have oil coming out of the crank case one of the most likely reasons was that something on the inside was going on to make that happen and it's generally not something you want to avoid checking. Putting the o ring in the case halves will only mask that problem. Apparently leaking crank cases with no other symptoms are rare.

Of the options suggested, the only ones I would likely invest in is porting/polishing/flow matching of cylinders. In keeping with Dan's wisdom, the porting and polishing has an up-front cost but doesn't cost anything to carry around and has no down-side when it comes to longevity and reliability.

Yes, it might cause your engine to make a bit more power and bump right up against Dan's very valid concern about cooling, however I would consider this a solid trade-off against the potential for the engine to run more efficiently which, ultimately, has a positive net effect on lifetime heat stress within the engine.

I don't know enough about engines to know if the effects of porting/polishing/flow matching can include a smoother running engine - if this is the case then one would also potentially realize an improvement in general component reliability through reduced vibration levels. Again, this is one point upon which I can only speculate and would appreciate knowing if there is factual evidence to prove or disprove this conjecture.

Dan, good advice for sure. I'm not advocating creating a race spec engine for my four seater, I'm just trying to put the options for building an engine in one place so folks can use them to compare apples to apples once they decide what they want. I'm certainly not arguing the weight and drag reduction, which opens up a whole other discussion.

I updated the original post with some additions and notes.

Options

I would have the case ?O ringed?. Because Lycon
Holds the STC so Continental or Lycoming can?t
Recommend it because it?s a practice they can?t do.
And I have worked assembling aircraft engines,
the whole halomar and silk thread should have
Went out in the 1920s.
When I took my helicopter training a few years back
The shop foreman and myself had a beer or two at
The end of the day and told me every engine they
Put in that they had ?O ringed? never leaked a drop.
And obviously these engines were mounted vertically.
That spoke volumes to me.

Sue said:

I would have the case ?O ringed?. Because Lycon
Holds the STC so Continental or Lycoming can?t
Recommend it because it?s a practice they can?t do.
And I have worked assembling aircraft engines,
the whole halomar and silk thread should have
Went out in the 1920s.
When I took my helicopter training a few years back
The shop foreman and myself had a beer or two at
The end of the day and told me every engine they
Put in that they had ?O ringed? never leaked a drop.
And obviously these engines were mounted vertically.
That spoke volumes to me.

Click to expand...

My Halomar and silk threaded engine cases don't leak a drop after 15 yrs...
Just sayin.

I suggest talking to a builder like Barrett, provide them your mission and they can help steer you in the right direction. As with all mods to the kit, look to yourself first and not to what others have done unless you know their example is something you want to emulate. Don’t get suckered into group think—just because the group does it doesn’t mean it’s a “must have”.

RVbySDI said:

Ah, such dead on wisdom! I think you should start each post with "Hear Me Now And Believe Me Later!"

This is like reading a statement from Warren Buffet as he talks about investing.

I think I am going to start calling you the "Oracle of Wetumpka"!

Click to expand...

Steve,
I've always thought "Wizard of..." was more catchy.

Walt said:

My Halomar and silk threaded engine cases don't leak a drop after 15 yrs...
Just sayin.

Click to expand...

Walt, I am sooo envious. My new purchased Lyc M1B has seeped just enough to irritate me to no end over the last 6 years. I am on the cusp of putting in some UV dye to try to find the culprit. I suspect the oil pan joint but the oil is too diffusely scattered to be sure. A quick wipe around the lower front of the engine every time I take the cowl off keeps things tidy. Dang it.

Thanks for the input. Again, this was not meant to debate which mods are best and which ones aren’t, its simply a list of the most popular mods that could be done. Each builder is different and missions vary so to each their own when building or buying their configured engine.

rzbill said:

Steve,
Walt, I am sooo envious. My new purchased Lyc M1B has seeped just enough to irritate me to no end over the last 6 years. I am on the cusp of putting in some UV dye to try to find the culprit. I suspect the oil pan joint but the oil is too diffusely scattered to be sure. A quick wipe around the lower front of the engine every time I take the cowl off keeps things tidy. Dang it.

Click to expand...

Lyc's seem to be the worst about oil leaks, along with seam seeps many will seep from various case studs with the lower cylinder hold down studs being the worst.