Van's Air Force
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Nose wheel shimmy!
- Thread starter Russ Sly
- Start date
Geico266
Well Known Member
You need to set the break out force to 30-40 pounds at the axle. It's controlled by the large nut that holds the wheel fork on the gear leg. Also, try inflating the tire to 35 PSI or more.
This is your 1st post and you joined in 2005? How can you read all of my posts and have no comments?
Welcome to VAF
This is your 1st post and you joined in 2005? How can you read all of my posts and have no comments?
Welcome to VAF
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First comment will be: 60 kts!, holy cow, what is the nose wheel doing on the ground at 60 kts . Ok, now that that is out of the way, welcome to VAF. There has been a lot of discussion in these parts about that very topic. Recently, most of those discussions have focused around rotational drag. Just to get your info flowing, does your nose wheel spin freely or not? What kind of nose tire are you using and how much pressure is in it?
. Ok, now that that is out of the way, welcome to VAF. There has been a lot of discussion in these parts about that very topic. Recently, most of those discussions have focused around rotational drag. Just to get your info flowing, does your nose wheel spin freely or not? What kind of nose tire are you using and how much pressure is in it?Little_Richard
Active Member
I would also say you should increase the tension on the castering nut. I beleive the manual calls for 25 pounds of breakout force and 30 pounds of air in the tire. I have an airport neighbor that runs more like 50 pounds of breakout force and 45 pounds of air in his front tire. He has very little to no shimmy.
This is in an -8A, so your experiences may vary.
This is in an -8A, so your experiences may vary.
The Lancair 235 with the old-style nose gear used a 3"-4" nylon disc between the fixed and moving portion with tension set by Belleville washers. However, my friend had his nose-wheel shimmy and then collapse because some oil got on the disc!
az_gila
Well Known Member
Greas is good...
Van copied the bellville washers in the Grumman series aircraft (essentially an identical set up to the RVs) and the Grumman Maintenance manual calls for grease between the washers and between the washers and the fixed portions on an annual/100 hr basis.
AeroShell #6 or equivalent is called out. In the case of metal to metal, some grease is a good thing...
I'm surprised that "creep" in the nylon washers didn't quickly loosen the Lancair gear you mention...
Russ... just to clarify, the Vans force measurement is a breakout force at the axle, NOT a torque value for the big nut.
Van copied the bellville washers in the Grumman series aircraft (essentially an identical set up to the RVs) and the Grumman Maintenance manual calls for grease between the washers and between the washers and the fixed portions on an annual/100 hr basis.
AeroShell #6 or equivalent is called out. In the case of metal to metal, some grease is a good thing...
I'm surprised that "creep" in the nylon washers didn't quickly loosen the Lancair gear you mention...
Russ... just to clarify, the Vans force measurement is a breakout force at the axle, NOT a torque value for the big nut.
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Geico266
Well Known Member
First comment will be: 60 kts!, holy cow, what is the nose wheel doing on the ground at 60 kts
Totally agree.
Jamie
Well Known Member
Yep, there's not a problem if your nosewheel experiences shimmy at 60kts. Nose wheel should be off the ground above 25kts on both take-off and landing. With my Hartzell prop, I get to 25 so fast I have no idea what the actual number is. Just hold the nosewheel off the ground and let the airplane fly itself off. That's it. Very simple.
Believe me, I don't intend to sound judgmental at all. I would hate to discourage anyone from posting questions on this forum. Any question is a good question in my mind. Having said that, I do believe that excessive speeds of the nosewheel on grass is one of the causes of many of these noseover accidents that we are seeing.
Believe me, I don't intend to sound judgmental at all. I would hate to discourage anyone from posting questions on this forum. Any question is a good question in my mind. Having said that, I do believe that excessive speeds of the nosewheel on grass is one of the causes of many of these noseover accidents that we are seeing.
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
I'm sure that somewhere along the lines, you're going to see a nosewheel have contact with the runway at 60 kias.
In regards to this particular airplane (assuming it's Russ's), it's been flying since the mid-ninties (if not earlier)..................and the pilot is VERY proficient. Former airline pilot, and all the rest.
L.Adamson
How is your neighbor achieving 50 lbs of breakout force. I have my washers completely bottomed out and can't turn the nut any more. I drilled another "intermediate" cotter pin hole right there, and still can only get about 30 lbs of breakout force.
Nose Wheel Shimmy
Russ,
I had some shimmy on mine after about 30 hours of flying. I increased the break out force and increased my tire pressure and it went away. I then added the gear leg stiffner to make sure I would not get any when I was on grass strips. Knock on wood... all has been quite since.
Russ,
I had some shimmy on mine after about 30 hours of flying. I increased the break out force and increased my tire pressure and it went away. I then added the gear leg stiffner to make sure I would not get any when I was on grass strips. Knock on wood... all has been quite since.
What part is moving?
Russ,
is this a fore/aft movement of the gear leg or side to side movement of the nose wheel (like a bad shopping cart wheel)?
Russ,
is this a fore/aft movement of the gear leg or side to side movement of the nose wheel (like a bad shopping cart wheel)?
Little_Richard
Active Member
I don't know the exact details, but if your nut is bottomed out, you can add another flat washer above the nut and below the belleville washers to allow some more adjustability.
Mike Matthews
I'm New Here
Nose wheel shimmy
I have an 8A quick build kit and recently someone shared a concern regarding nose wheel shimmy! I?ve opted for the 200hp Lycoming with a constant speed prop. Someone mentioned that Van?s Tri-gear models have a considerable amount of nose wheel shimmy and that this heavy engine/prop combination would only exaggerate the problem. Has anyone heard of this being a problem in the Tri-gears, and if so, is there a solution? I'm a new piolt and first time builder so I open to all points of view.
I have an 8A quick build kit and recently someone shared a concern regarding nose wheel shimmy! I?ve opted for the 200hp Lycoming with a constant speed prop. Someone mentioned that Van?s Tri-gear models have a considerable amount of nose wheel shimmy and that this heavy engine/prop combination would only exaggerate the problem. Has anyone heard of this being a problem in the Tri-gears, and if so, is there a solution? I'm a new piolt and first time builder so I open to all points of view.
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
First, you can install items towards the tail of the plane to offset the nose weight. I did this in my 6A, and it's still a bit heavier on the nose than some. It has a C/S prop and the heavier starter motor.
When it comes to landing, get the stick coming back to attain the same nose up landing attitude, as the air speed diminishes. By the time my mains touch the runway, my joystick is basically full back. No bounces, and no shimmy. I then keep the stick back during taxi, and until shut down.
On my first test flight (three weeks ago), I let the nose down too quick, and got the shimmy. The nut that's adjusted for pull out force, had also loosened up a bit. You check this after a few flights anyway. However, I made 10 landings even in it's loose position, and have not had shimmy since.
Now, in reality, I've only landed this 6A 14 times. So that's one with shimmy, and 13 without, and not a bounce yet. Prior to that, I've made a lot of landings in several 9A's.
L.Adamson
When it comes to landing, get the stick coming back to attain the same nose up landing attitude, as the air speed diminishes. By the time my mains touch the runway, my joystick is basically full back. No bounces, and no shimmy. I then keep the stick back during taxi, and until shut down.
On my first test flight (three weeks ago), I let the nose down too quick, and got the shimmy. The nut that's adjusted for pull out force, had also loosened up a bit. You check this after a few flights anyway. However, I made 10 landings even in it's loose position, and have not had shimmy since.
Now, in reality, I've only landed this 6A 14 times. So that's one with shimmy, and 13 without, and not a bounce yet. Prior to that, I've made a lot of landings in several 9A's.
L.Adamson
Jamie
Well Known Member
I'm not sure what your friend meant by a 'considerable amount of nose wheel shimmy'. I can tell you that in 180 hours I have only experienced shimmy once, and it was when I let the nut on the nose gear leg get too lose and the breakout force was down around 8 pounds or so. I tighted it back up and have not had any more problems. That's with regard to the side to side shimmy.
There is also a problem with fore-aft shimmy. This shimmy is almost imperceptible from inside the airplane. You really don't feel it at all. The only way you know about it is if someone watches you or you install a bullet camera to record the nosewheel.
This was remedied on my plane with the installation of the Grove nosewheel. Do a search for "Grove Nosewheel" on this forum and you will see the pertinent threads.
There is also a problem with fore-aft shimmy. This shimmy is almost imperceptible from inside the airplane. You really don't feel it at all. The only way you know about it is if someone watches you or you install a bullet camera to record the nosewheel.
This was remedied on my plane with the installation of the Grove nosewheel. Do a search for "Grove Nosewheel" on this forum and you will see the pertinent threads.
Pat Stewart
Well Known Member
Nose wheel shimmy
Lets start with the fact that an 8A is a tandam aircraft and lands much differently that a 6 or 7. 8's are all nose heavy simply because it is a tandam aircraft and the CG has been designed in to make it that way, thats not true on a 6 or 7 so if you have never flown and 8 I would tell you that comparing it to a 6 or 7 is not a good idea. Ive flown all of them.
The 200 hp adds to that. There is no problem with two folks in the airplane but solo it is heavy. I have built 2, the first an 8 and after flying the second an 8A for about 100 hours I change the hartzell CS to a composite CS. This eliminates 18 pounds off the nose of the aircraft and seriously changed the landing characteristics of the airplane although still a little nose heavy. Most of the time when I get a shimmy its the speed and or the runway surface. I understand the Grove nose wheel helps however I have not ordered it yet.
Another option is to carry a few gallons of water in a container in the aft baggage when solo (make sure you do your weight and balance). If you need to add the rear passenger just pour out the water.
Lets start with the fact that an 8A is a tandam aircraft and lands much differently that a 6 or 7. 8's are all nose heavy simply because it is a tandam aircraft and the CG has been designed in to make it that way, thats not true on a 6 or 7 so if you have never flown and 8 I would tell you that comparing it to a 6 or 7 is not a good idea. Ive flown all of them.
The 200 hp adds to that. There is no problem with two folks in the airplane but solo it is heavy. I have built 2, the first an 8 and after flying the second an 8A for about 100 hours I change the hartzell CS to a composite CS. This eliminates 18 pounds off the nose of the aircraft and seriously changed the landing characteristics of the airplane although still a little nose heavy. Most of the time when I get a shimmy its the speed and or the runway surface. I understand the Grove nose wheel helps however I have not ordered it yet.
Another option is to carry a few gallons of water in a container in the aft baggage when solo (make sure you do your weight and balance). If you need to add the rear passenger just pour out the water.
Nose Wheel Shimmy Testing
Back in the 40's NACA (precursor to NASA) did extensive testing on wheel shimmy. There are several good papers written on the factors that exasperated wheel shimmy. For those interested I highly recommend reading NACA Technical Note No. 760, "A Full-Scale Investigation of the Effect of Several Factors on the Shimmy of Castering Wheels" by Walter B Howard Jr. It's an interesting read.
Through their experiments they find that both the caster angle and caster length are strong drivers of wheel shimmy. There is an almost linear relationship between the amount of solid friction required to damp shimmy and increasing caster angle. They test caster angles up to 21.5 degrees. The vans nose wheel has a caster angle of about 50. The weight on the wheel is also a stong driver, also with a linear relationship to the solid friction required to damp shimmy.
Back in the 40's NACA (precursor to NASA) did extensive testing on wheel shimmy. There are several good papers written on the factors that exasperated wheel shimmy. For those interested I highly recommend reading NACA Technical Note No. 760, "A Full-Scale Investigation of the Effect of Several Factors on the Shimmy of Castering Wheels" by Walter B Howard Jr. It's an interesting read.
Through their experiments they find that both the caster angle and caster length are strong drivers of wheel shimmy. There is an almost linear relationship between the amount of solid friction required to damp shimmy and increasing caster angle. They test caster angles up to 21.5 degrees. The vans nose wheel has a caster angle of about 50. The weight on the wheel is also a stong driver, also with a linear relationship to the solid friction required to damp shimmy.
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NACA Report
John, thanks for the heads up about the NACA Report. I have considerable background in automotive suspension design, and the conclusions seem reasonable. To clarify a point, Van's caster is actually close to zero. The angle of the gear leg doesn't really count. The pivot axis of the spindle (our "fork") governs. With Van's design, "caster length" and "spindle offset" end up being about the same and high, at about 7.5 inches. This seems to be a pretty good basic setup. Grumman and Diamond chose similar designs. Where we differ (RV-10s excepted) is that our leg doubles as the spring medium. with the right inputs, this undamped spring could theoretically cause some weird caster angle excursions.
John, thanks for the heads up about the NACA Report. I have considerable background in automotive suspension design, and the conclusions seem reasonable. To clarify a point, Van's caster is actually close to zero. The angle of the gear leg doesn't really count. The pivot axis of the spindle (our "fork") governs. With Van's design, "caster length" and "spindle offset" end up being about the same and high, at about 7.5 inches. This seems to be a pretty good basic setup. Grumman and Diamond chose similar designs. Where we differ (RV-10s excepted) is that our leg doubles as the spring medium. with the right inputs, this undamped spring could theoretically cause some weird caster angle excursions.
billnaz
Well Known Member
gear leg stiffener
The best idea I've seen to mitigate the A model shimmy is a wood stiffener. The idea I'm going to copy when I add mine is to attach it to the gear with a bunch of zip ties. This method cured the shimmy on a local 9A, and avoids the hassle of glassing (the wood fits under the standard removable fairing) and is easily undoable. I have 100 hrs on my 6A and have replaced the old gear per the SB and still have a persistant shimmy on deceleration through about 20 mph. Hopefully the stiffener will cure it. This project is on the list for my next annual this feb.
The best idea I've seen to mitigate the A model shimmy is a wood stiffener. The idea I'm going to copy when I add mine is to attach it to the gear with a bunch of zip ties. This method cured the shimmy on a local 9A, and avoids the hassle of glassing (the wood fits under the standard removable fairing) and is easily undoable. I have 100 hrs on my 6A and have replaced the old gear per the SB and still have a persistant shimmy on deceleration through about 20 mph. Hopefully the stiffener will cure it. This project is on the list for my next annual this feb.
Hmmmmm........
I recently put the new nose gear leg and fork on my (purchased) -6A, and I seem to remember that in the instructions was a note to NOT add a stiffener. This is from memory, as I am not near the hangar.
If this is correct, what would Van's reasoning be? One thought is that by putting stiffeners on the nose gear leg, you might move the stress/bending moments to a spot on the leg that it wasn't designed for. Seems to me the leg is designed to absorb the loads over the entire length, and not just at one spot.
Thoughts, from the structural engineering crowd?????
I recently put the new nose gear leg and fork on my (purchased) -6A, and I seem to remember that in the instructions was a note to NOT add a stiffener. This is from memory, as I am not near the hangar.
If this is correct, what would Van's reasoning be? One thought is that by putting stiffeners on the nose gear leg, you might move the stress/bending moments to a spot on the leg that it wasn't designed for. Seems to me the leg is designed to absorb the loads over the entire length, and not just at one spot.
Thoughts, from the structural engineering crowd?????
READ THIS ABOUT NOSE WHEELS............ http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=231999&postcount=176
Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure if the caster angle was off the strut or the spindle. If it is the spindle wouldn't the angle be closer to 90? I'll have to take another look at the drawings with your comments in mind.
Caster Angle
John, our caster is near zero, because caster angle is measured from the vertical. Wikipedia gives a fair explanation at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle .
John, our caster is near zero, because caster angle is measured from the vertical. Wikipedia gives a fair explanation at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle .
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Shimmy or oscillation?
I have a 7A. Almost every time I land an observer tells me I have a nosewheel "shimmy." The stick does not reflect any movement during rollout. I adhere to the principal that the nosewheel is for ground steering only and not for landing, and thus keep the nosewheel off the ground as long as it will stay up.
I have modified the nosewheel per the Van's service bulletin.
I have spoken with Van's several times. They assure me there is no shimmy, but only a forward/aft oscillation. I wonder if anybody else has had this conversation with them?
Given all of this, I do not land on grass.
I have a 7A. Almost every time I land an observer tells me I have a nosewheel "shimmy." The stick does not reflect any movement during rollout. I adhere to the principal that the nosewheel is for ground steering only and not for landing, and thus keep the nosewheel off the ground as long as it will stay up.
I have modified the nosewheel per the Van's service bulletin.
I have spoken with Van's several times. They assure me there is no shimmy, but only a forward/aft oscillation. I wonder if anybody else has had this conversation with them?
Given all of this, I do not land on grass.
woodsideraff
Well Known Member
8A nosewheel shimmy
I had someone on the ground look at my 8A nosewheel as it shimmied on roll-out. He observed a significant up/down motion at about 5 knots.
I took the wheel to be balanced to the local motorcycle shop. They showed me the wheel to be significantly out of round. Thus I purchased a new one from Vans. They told me this was an upgraded tire and indeed it looked to be of better quality.
I set the pressure to 30 lbs. and the breaking force to 25. Indeed I did see a significant improvement. However, there is still this shimmy at about 5 kts. Once it gets developed, it continues to increase until I really step on the brakes.
My next step will be to have the wheel balanced. At first I believed that balancing would not be an issue due to the slow speed at which shimmy occurs. When I think of it again, a back of the envelope calculation shows a frequency of about 3 cycles per second at 7 kts. This agrees with what I'm obseving. Evidently there is a resonant mode on the nose gear assembly at this frequency.
I'll post my results after I find out if balancing solves the problem.
Cheers,
Rafael
RV8-A (purchased) flying.
I had someone on the ground look at my 8A nosewheel as it shimmied on roll-out. He observed a significant up/down motion at about 5 knots.
I took the wheel to be balanced to the local motorcycle shop. They showed me the wheel to be significantly out of round. Thus I purchased a new one from Vans. They told me this was an upgraded tire and indeed it looked to be of better quality.
I set the pressure to 30 lbs. and the breaking force to 25. Indeed I did see a significant improvement. However, there is still this shimmy at about 5 kts. Once it gets developed, it continues to increase until I really step on the brakes.
My next step will be to have the wheel balanced. At first I believed that balancing would not be an issue due to the slow speed at which shimmy occurs. When I think of it again, a back of the envelope calculation shows a frequency of about 3 cycles per second at 7 kts. This agrees with what I'm obseving. Evidently there is a resonant mode on the nose gear assembly at this frequency.
I'll post my results after I find out if balancing solves the problem.
Cheers,
Rafael
RV8-A (purchased) flying.
woodsideraff
Well Known Member
nosewheel shimmy (oscillation)
I erroneously posted this in the 6A forum, although I believe it is relevant there also.
I had someone on the ground look at my 8A nosewheel as it shimmied on roll-out. He observed a significant up/down motion at about 5 knots.
I took the wheel to be balanced to the local motorcycle shop. They showed me the wheel to be significantly out of round. Thus I purchased a new one from Vans. They told me this was an upgraded tire and indeed it looked to be of better quality.
I set the pressure to 30 lbs. and the breaking force to 25. Indeed I did see a significant improvement. However, there is still this shimmy at about 5 kts. Once it gets developed, it continues to increase until I really step on the brakes.
My next step will be to have the wheel balanced. At first I believed that balancing would not be an issue due to the slow speed at which shimmy occurs. When I think of it again, a back of the envelope calculation shows a frequency of about 3 cycles per second at 7 kts. This agrees with what I'm obseving. Evidently there is a resonant mode on the nose gear assembly at this frequency.
I'll post my results after I find out if balancing solves the problem.
Cheers,
Rafael
RV8-A (purchased) flying.
I erroneously posted this in the 6A forum, although I believe it is relevant there also.
I had someone on the ground look at my 8A nosewheel as it shimmied on roll-out. He observed a significant up/down motion at about 5 knots.
I took the wheel to be balanced to the local motorcycle shop. They showed me the wheel to be significantly out of round. Thus I purchased a new one from Vans. They told me this was an upgraded tire and indeed it looked to be of better quality.
I set the pressure to 30 lbs. and the breaking force to 25. Indeed I did see a significant improvement. However, there is still this shimmy at about 5 kts. Once it gets developed, it continues to increase until I really step on the brakes.
My next step will be to have the wheel balanced. At first I believed that balancing would not be an issue due to the slow speed at which shimmy occurs. When I think of it again, a back of the envelope calculation shows a frequency of about 3 cycles per second at 7 kts. This agrees with what I'm obseving. Evidently there is a resonant mode on the nose gear assembly at this frequency.
I'll post my results after I find out if balancing solves the problem.
Cheers,
Rafael
RV8-A (purchased) flying.
Pat Stewart
Well Known Member
Nose wheel shimmy
There are a lot of side by side guys providing feedback on the RV8. It is a tandem aircraft and the nose is much heavier than the side by side 6a or 7a. You will not have the nose off at 25kts landing or taking off. Make sure the breakout pressure and tire pressure are good. The only other option is the Grove nose wheel which I have read does make a big difference.
Pat Stewart
RV8A
There are a lot of side by side guys providing feedback on the RV8. It is a tandem aircraft and the nose is much heavier than the side by side 6a or 7a. You will not have the nose off at 25kts landing or taking off. Make sure the breakout pressure and tire pressure are good. The only other option is the Grove nose wheel which I have read does make a big difference.
Pat Stewart
RV8A
woodsideraff
Well Known Member
shimmy (vibration)
Finally got both mains and nosewheel balanced. The vibration has disssapeared.
Cheers,
Rafael
Finally got both mains and nosewheel balanced. The vibration has disssapeared.
Cheers,
Rafael
Avengerboss
Well Known Member
Just made my first flight in my 8A "LOVED it"! But i now have a nose wheel shimmy that just is getting worse. I didn't have it on my high speed taxi or during a couple of crow hops. After my first landing it started and contiuned even during taxi. i torqued the nut to the proper 20lb force as stated in my manual. Any suggestions????
L.Adamson
Well Known Member
Is that torque or pull out force with a device such as a fish scale? My 6A plans used a 22 lb. pull out force, but I'm aware that newer models use torque............at least I think.
But regardless, the pull out force usually ends up a bit higher, and re-check, as they tend to easily loosen on the first few hours. My first 6A landing also resulted in a big time shimmy, that wouldn't stop until I had really slowed down. I re-tightened the nose nut, and kept weight off the nosewheel during the next landings. Many hours went well after that. I then encounterd a rough runway, in which the nose bounced because of keeping it light. I got the shimmy again, which seemed like a flat tire. I've reset the pull out force a few times within 145 hrs of use. That heavy shimmy has only happened a few times, and by controlling the weight of the nose while still having elevator authority has stopped the high speed shimmy altogether. However, many RV's can still get a bit at taxi speeds, including tail draggers. Just slow a bit, and it will stop. I've thought about wood dampeners as was done in the old days, but probably won't bother.
L.Adamson
David-aviator
Well Known Member
I agree that 20 lbs. is too light. I keep my 7A at 27-30 lbs. and have not had any shimmying.
Vic
Vic
Avengerboss
Well Known Member
Re:Shimmy
Thanks all, I will increase my breakout force to about 25lbs and inflate my tire to 40lbs and go from there..
Thanks Much.
Thanks all, I will increase my breakout force to about 25lbs and inflate my tire to 40lbs and go from there..
Thanks Much.
Avengerboss
Well Known Member
HELP!!! I've done everything everyone has told me to and i still can't get rid of that shimmy, New tire&Tube 24lb break out, from 25 lb to 45lbs tire pressure????? I have the angle valve IO-360 w/CS, HELLLLLLP!!!!!
erich weaver
Well Known Member
You can also try having the wheel balanced. Your local motorcycle shop may be able to do this for a few bucks if you beg. The guy near me first told me his machine wouldn't work on my wheel, but I got him to try anyway, and he was able to do it. Made my shimmy better, but did not completely go away u till I replaced the wheel with a Grove model. If you call them they know the drill and can set you up.
Erich
Erich
GrayHawk
Well Known Member
My vote is for the new wheel since everything else has failed.
But you might also check this in the process:
Credit to LifeOReilly:
"I will also hint this... Jack your "A" model plane up and totally level the plane... all axis perfect level flight about 2 inches off the floor. Then with the nose fairing off the plane, take a digital level and check your nose wheel and fork dead straight and centered on both sides. I'm interested in hearing some results. Mine is fixed now. There may be an issue, but I not blaming it on the nose gear leg."
But you might also check this in the process:
Credit to LifeOReilly:
"I will also hint this... Jack your "A" model plane up and totally level the plane... all axis perfect level flight about 2 inches off the floor. Then with the nose fairing off the plane, take a digital level and check your nose wheel and fork dead straight and centered on both sides. I'm interested in hearing some results. Mine is fixed now. There may be an issue, but I not blaming it on the nose gear leg."
ColoCardinal
Well Known Member
Mine is fixed now. There may be an issue, but I not blaming it on the nose gear leg."
How did you fix yours?
How did you fix yours?
Avengerboss
Well Known Member
Thanks all, I only live 20 minutes from Grove Aircraft and we have a good motorcycle shop here so i'll go with that first. and check that gear leg alignment also. If that fails then a Grove wheel is next. Thanks again
