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Tailwheel bolt hardware

Arablenz

Active Member
I have asked the mothership support this question but not heard back as yet. The through bolt that attaches the U tail wheel to the fork, calls out the use of two washers but that means in my case the castle nut is not threaded on enough. If I take one washer out its just fine. Has anyone else had this issue and did you go to less thick washers as in 32 rather than 63 thickness or just do away with the outside washer? Also the Tailwheel bearings seem very rough , if it was on my combine harvester, i would discard them but I have read here that it seems normal as they wear in with plenty of grease after 50 hours. Is this the norm ?
Thanks
 
Just use the thickness of washer that allows proper placement of the castle nut.

Flyboy Accessories has a much better tire selection, with good bearings.
 
The drawings call for various rivet lengths and bolt lengths based upon engineering specs. Actual manufacturing tolerances can vary, so you might find that you are changing a specified bolt, washer, or rivet for a different one during actual construction. Really nothing to fret over. Do what's right and move on. :)

Vic
 
+1

"Flyboy Accessories has a much better tire selection, with good bearings."

Absolutely. Sealed bearings; smoother running; lighter.

Carry on!
Mark
 
Thanks for your replies. I may look to the aftermarket Tailwheel once I try this one out as I have already paid for this one. Given the rest of the kit has been of great quality I have been somewhat surprised out the quality of these wheel bearings . I suppose given that , I had been more concerned about the appropriate use of washers , as one washer is between the fork and the bearing which seems important compared to the one under the nut.
 
Thanks for your replies. I may look to the aftermarket Tailwheel once I try this one out as I have already paid for this one. Given the rest of the kit has been of great quality I have been somewhat surprised out the quality of these wheel bearings . I suppose given that , I had been more concerned about the appropriate use of washers , as one washer is between the fork and the bearing which seems important compared to the one under the nut.

Roger,

What is more important is to not overtighten the nut on the axle bolt and introduce a side load on those bearings. Use whatever washers will give a good fit, then finger tighten the nut to get rid of any gaps that would allow the tire to move side to side. If the fit is good at that point, put the cotter pin in.

Keep an eye on the tire and bearings, like you would anything else on the plane. Then every 6 months or so, depending on flight hours, take the entire tailwheel fork assembly apart and clean and regrease it. Pay particular attention to the locking pin. While it's apart, inspect the tire bearings and tread also. You can grease the tire bearings, but it's often futile as you can't make a crummy bearing better with grease alone.

If you do these things you'll get good service from the tailwheel. We have a service instruction sheet that we're happy to send to anyone who emails us. Email [email protected]

Vince
 
Roger,

I just mounted the tailwheel this weekend and came here to see if anyone had this exact experience and how they handled it.

I have the same two issues; the bolt is a touch short and the tailwheel seems to interfere with the fork as it rolls. The side with no washer between the wheel and the fork is in contact with the fork (obviously) but the bearings are so crappy that the wheel occasionally binds up enough to rotate the housing, scraping the inside right of the fork.

My plan is to buy a slightly longer bolt but the fork is too tight for another washer inside. Not sure how I will solve that. Not sure the bearings "wearing in" will solve things.
 
Hi Robert,
Have you put grease in to the bearing. Mine was quite rough to initially but now after 50 hrs has obviously bed in as it’s quite smooth. However mine didn’t bind to the housing and so I would contact Vans support about this.
If I was building again or when it comes to replacement time I will support Vince as he was very helpful to me and I like the clearance of their fork assembly.
Roger,

I just mounted the tailwheel this weekend and came here to see if anyone had this exact experience and how they handled it.

I have the same two issues; the bolt is a touch short and the tailwheel seems to interfere with the fork as it rolls. The side with no washer between the wheel and the fork is in contact with the fork (obviously) but the bearings are so crappy that the wheel occasionally binds up enough to rotate the housing, scraping the inside right of the fork.

My plan is to buy a slightly longer bolt but the fork is too tight for another washer inside. Not sure how I will solve that. Not sure the bearings "wearing in" will solve things.
 
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