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Modifications that you have Made to your RV-12 after Certification? E-LSA Only!

I saw Joe's tanks up close and personal. Looks very nice, and he can access the tail cone without removing the tank.

Well done Joe.
 
Learned at first annual:
Put silicone on your static lines where they connect to fuse pins so they don't slip off the pins.
Put some ceramic cloth over the oil line where it crosses the exhaust pipe on right side to eliminate heat distortion of fireshield at the Adel clamp supporting the oil line.
Add a 1/2" spacer between the nose gear leg and adel clamp to move the coolent line away from the gascolator to eliminate heat transfer to the gascolator bowl.
Suggest using two wireways instead of one to minimize the wire pileup over the rudder/brake pedal bars.
Dick Seiders 120093
 
Joe
I like your seatback fuel tank mod. I'm curious if there is enough room now to stow 2 of those foldup bikes in there?
 
Need more info

I'm curious if there is enough room now to stow 2 of those foldup bikes in there?
I can not answer that without knowing how big the bikes are. Are the bikes small enough to fit between the roll bar and the horizontal cross bar behind the seat? What are the bike dimensions?
Joe Gores
 
I can not answer that without knowing how big the bikes are. Are the bikes small enough to fit between the roll bar and the horizontal cross bar behind the seat? What are the bike dimensions?
Joe Gores

If you had a fine Brompton folding bike, its folded size is 24 x 24 x11 and it weighs about 28 pounds, it should fit. They are a good ride but are not cheap as they are very well built in London.

Best regards,
Vern
 
remote oil sensor questions

HI John,

Your message box is full so I've got to ask these here.

I'm planning to move the sensor to the firewall at the first Annual this fall. I think I have the answers already to a couple of questions but want to make sure. If I keep the Honeywell sensor and move that to the firewall it looks like you just bundled up the extra wire?

And it also looks like you somehow used a double Adel clamp to mount the sensor on top of the fuel pressure sensor?

Final question-- where does the restrictor go-- at the engine end of the line or at the sensor end-- may see that when I look at the parts.

If possible, please reply to [email protected]-- I can't remember to check messages on VAF

THANKS

Wayne Moyer
120241/143WM 55 hours
 
Why not just chock it instead?:)

Jetguy! There are customers trying to send you orders, but your PM mail box is full!

I can start taking orders for you if you like! ;)

Okay everyone, I am now the offical superdooper Paypal for Jetguy and company. Send me the monry and I will send the orders to Jetguy for a nominal handling and processing fee. :rolleyes:
 
Im going to Get With It!

I emptied my mail box and sent Wayne and email about the oil sensor stuff. Keep after me, Have no mercy.:eek:

Heres a thought here is my email address: [email protected]
 
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I emptied my mail box and sent Wayne and email about the oil sensor stuff. Keep after me, Have no mercy.:eek:

Heres a thought here is my email address: [email protected]

Add your email address to your personal info and it will show up as a like when someone clicks your icon. That will be $100 internet communication consultation fee please. ;)
 
I emptied my mail box and sent Wayne and email about the oil sensor stuff. Keep after me, Have no mercy.:eek:

Heres a thought here is my email address: [email protected]

Hi John,
Interested in your landing gear farings. Sent you an email and a private message to your mailbox on this site. Hope to hear from you when you get a chance.

Tom
 
Aileron Trim

Having just passed 200 hours on the -12 I decided it was time to come up with an aileron trim. I do not have the auto pilot so I needed to be able to trim the plane for passengers, fuel burn, and when I have a big lunch. ;)

Sorry the pictures turned out black and white. :eek:

RV-12_Trim.jpg


For complete info see..... http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=75955
 
Rubber baby buggy bumpers

IMG_0621a.JPG

Actually it is not baby buggy bumper. It is a rubber washer that prevents the flaps
from being raised past the detent. It is disconcerting when the handle snaps into the
detent unexpectedly like it did on one of the early test flights.
Joe Gores
 
Fuel Pump switch

IMG_0631a.JPG

Added fuel pump switch so that I can shut off the pump without shutting off the cooling
fans while downloading Dynon data or playing with the avionics. Pulling the fuse not only stops
the fans, but also stops all of the noise. Old forgetful minds need noise to remind them to shut
off the master switch. :D It is very bad for the PC680 to be run down.
Joe Gores
 
Flap monitor

IMG_0622a.JPG

I installed a microswitch on top of F-1218 to monitor the flap position. F-1218 is on page 21-04
Purchased this switch: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cherry-Electrical/E22-50KL/?qs=%2f8nQt4pMpTHEiHMFFmOyeQ%3d%3d
This is a work in progress. When completed, the switch will turn on a one minute PIC12F509 timer.
This will give time to make a landing. If the flaps are still down after one minute, the Dynon will alarm.
Old forgetful minds sometimes forget to raise the flaps, not good if the airspeed exceeds 80 knots.
Below is a picture of the Dynon displaying FLAP.
IMG_0625a.JPG

The Fuel Temp is not operational yet. That is a future project using the
Dynon D-180 GP Thermocouple input (EMS Pins 27 & 28).
Joe Gores
 
Would just ramping the bottom slot a bit do the same thing, it would then slide up into the notch? I intend to ramp my slots so I can just reach for the handle and pull up to deploy flaps with no thumb action reqired.
.
IMG_0621a.JPG

Actually it is not baby buggy bumper. It is a rubber washer that prevents the flaps
from being raised past the detent. It is disconcerting when the handle snaps into the
detent unexpectedly like it did on one of the early test flights.
Joe Gores
 
Flap handle spring

Would just ramping the bottom slot a bit do the same thing, it would then slide up into the notch?
Possibly, but it would be a long ramp.
The flap button spring is hard to push.
During construction I considered replacing the spring with a weaker one. But I discovered
that that the button is not as hard to depress while sitting in the pilot seat compared to standing
outside. You might find a weaker spring suitable for the flap handle at Century Spring.
http://centuryspring.aiprx.com/Store/search_compression.php?reset=1
Joe Gores
 
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More info please,

IMG_0631a.JPG

Added fuel pump switch so that I can shut off the pump without shutting off the cooling
fans while downloading Dynon data or playing with the avionics.
Joe Gores

Joe,
Best solution yet seen on the switch install, it looks like it is supposed to look. Wondering if you removed the panel from the aircraft to make the hole for the switch in order to deal with the metal shavings and to wire it in.

Tony
 
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You need to match the font better Joe. ;)

Seriously, that is really a good idea. I looked at that and decided I would wait until you did it first! :D I don't have an auto pilot and added mine to the AP hole near the throttle. It is very handy, but not where it should be.

We need some details on where you got the switch and how you tapped into the wires.

Very cool mod Joe, seriously.
 
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Panel switches

Wondering if you removed the panel from the aircraft to make the hole for the switch in order to deal with the metal shavings and to wire it in.
Tony,
Yes, it was necessary to remove the control panel from the airplane and take the back cover off from it. Removing the cover involves removing all of the D-Sub standoffs. The printed circuit board already has slots to accept the switch. After cutting the rectangular hole in the panel, slide the switch in and solder it. It is necessary to move the red wire from fuselage D-Sub location 29 to 30 in order to enable the switch. I always leave the fuel pump switch on while flying. It will be hard for me to inadvertently forget to turn the pump on because I make sure that every switch on the panel is turned on before starting the engine. (Lighting kit not installed). The fuel pump switch has the same part number as the ignition switches. Van's sells control panel switches to replace defective ones. They are also available from other sources at a higher price. See posts # 10, 11, & 12 on this thread: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=487936
I should have installed a switch in the spare location while I was at it. (between Auto Pilot & Trim) The spare switch could control the GPS and Transponder so that they could be left off if desired to operate only the Dynon while on the ground. Having the GPS and Transponder on a separate circuit will keep them operating in case of an electrical fault on the avionics circuit. I do not like having all of my eggs in one basket.
Joe Gores
 
I called Van's and they said they don't sell these switches. Anyone have a Van's part number for one(If they do in fact have them, and the person I spoke to didn't know)?
 
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Eliminate Fuel Tank Removal

Here is a mod to consider (from another thread but should be here) to eliminate unnecessary fuel tank removal. Rear bulkhead modification. Note: Match-drill the doublers BEFORE you cut the covers so that the pieces will remain in perfect alignment. The cuts maximize the openings. View the flaperon joint with mirrors (add torque seal paint). The doubler itself is thicker aluminum than the bulkhead. For those E-LSA not yet signed off, order two extra covers and make a post-inspection set.

IMG_3.JPG


IMG_1.JPG


IMG_2.JPG


IMG_4.JPG


IMG_5.JPG


IMG_6.JPG


IMG_7.JPG
 
Page 29-05

I was worried that careless handling might permanently bend the Upper Forward Fuselage Skin
(Instrument Panel Cover) in the center where the F-1202D-L & F-1202D-R meet on the aft edge.
The assembly seemed too flimsy to me. So I made a reinforcement out of some scrap hinge and
riveted it to the forward side of the F-1202D L&R. Doing that really stiffened up the Upper Forward
Fuselage Skin and made it sturdy.
IMG_0712a.JPG

Joe Gores
 
Copied from someone - -

RV-12NoseForkZirk100_1984.jpg


Forgot whose idea this was, but I like it. The wall is fairly thick, and the zirk comes out flush on the inside.

Doing 2nd annual, and good time to do it.

John Bender
317.4 hours.
 
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RV-12NoseForkZirk100_1984.jpg


Forgot whose idea this was, but I like it. The wall is fairly thick, and the zirk comes out flush on the inside.

Doing 2nd annual, and good time to do it.

John Bender
317.4 hours.

John,
Don't forget to redo your weight & Balance... since the whole nose fork cavity is hollow, it will get entirely pumped full of grease :D
 
Hey Scott - -

Thought you were joking before. Only space is between bushings, and is maybe 1/8" thick at most. A spoon full or two is all it can handle. Look at a housing again.

John Bender
 
Thought you were joking before. Only space is between bushings, and is maybe 1/8" thick at most. A spoon full or two is all it can handle. Look at a housing again.

John Bender

I guess I will have to.

Going from memory, I am pretty sure that the whole front of the fork is a hollow cavity that you will have to totally fill with grease before you develop any pressure to push it out into the bushings. It is a totally different design from the rest of the tri-gear airplanes.

I guess I will have to check my memory.
 
Hey Scott - -

Mine might be different also. Mine has a tube thru the housing, and 2 bushings, pushed in from each end. I'd guess maybe 2" between the bushings and maybe 1/8" thichness for grease. It does not hold much, but does make it nice to keep filled now. For sure let me/us know if they are not made that way now.

John Bender
 
I guess I will have to.

Going from memory, I am pretty sure that the whole front of the fork is a hollow cavity that you will have to totally fill with grease before you develop any pressure to push it out into the bushings. It is a totally different design from the rest of the tri-gear airplanes.

I guess I will have to check my memory.

Hi Scott,

As I remember it, there is a big open void in that part - but - when the shaft is in place the void would be reduced to the area between the outer diameter of the shaft, and the inner diameter of the fork. I am thinking that is the difference between the two different visualizations of the assembly.

BTW, what's going on with the "kid's" airplane since OSH?

John
 
Minor Mods

398979849.jpg


Keeps canopy handle clear when lowering canopy from ground. Package of 4 springs at Home Depot Aviation Dept. ran about $3.
398979840.jpg


Keeps glare off GPS. .020 scrap and rattle can flat black.

Jim
#264
flying 77 hours
 
Keeps canopy handle clear when lowering canopy from ground. Package of 4 springs at Home Depot Aviation Dept. ran about $3.
Jim

To add a bit of friction, I placed an o-ring on the handle shaft. Insert the shaft, compress the o-ring just a tiny bit, tighten the top handle. Works well and does not show. Cost - 50 cents.
 
Mine might be different also. Mine has a tube thru the housing, and 2 bushings, pushed in from each end. I'd guess maybe 2" between the bushings and maybe 1/8" thichness for grease. It does not hold much, but does make it nice to keep filled now. For sure let me/us know if they are not made that way now.

John Bender

:eek: Your right John.

I didn't remember that it was made with a tube at the front, with the bushings pressed into that. It looks like it will be a small enough amount of grease the you shouldn't need to reweigh ;)

Hi Scott,

BTW, what's going on with the "kid's" airplane since OSH?

John

It has been displayed at a couple of locale events, and quite a few of the guys have been taking flight instruction from two CFI's that are donating their time.
Teen Flight project # 2 is now under way. You can read a report by Van about it HERE
 
To add a bit of friction, I placed an o-ring on the handle shaft. Insert the shaft, compress the o-ring just a tiny bit, tighten the top handle. Works well and does not show. Cost - 50 cents.

Hey! That was my idea! :rolleyes: ;)


It takes the same oring as the brake cylinders. I had a leaker and replaced the cylinder orings and had the old one laying around, and it was the right size. It does work well. The handle stays put.

Marty and I were working on the canopies at the same time a couple of years ago now and we needed to come up with a way to hold it in place. I probably stole the idea from someone else. That brings back a lot of great memories.
 
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o-ring fix

Great minds think alike!

I could not compress the tube as suggested in the plans, so I too used an o-ring. I'm on my second one, and keep a couple of spares in the plane.

I think I bought some 1mm o-rings for the job.

Cheers...Keith
 
Mods to 143WM

Stabilator tips were made from .020 following Larry's photos but with just a
Stabtip.jpg
few more rivets.

I'd already installed the interior kit before Van's made the console chart box available so this one is made from .020 and velcroed to the console covering. Works very well and can easily be removed to remove carpet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Yankee-Flyer/RV-12/Chart.jpg

My building buddy flies right seat and can't see the Dynon display very well. Also, I've never seen an electronic device that won't fail. 21/4 inch airspeed and altimeter and ball were easy additions to the right side of the panel. New airspeed backed up my contention that the Dynon was reading about 5 knots too slow-- Dynon found/repaired a defective sensor but the airplane is in the paint shop and repair's haven't been checked yet.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Yankee-Flyer/RV-12/Panel-1.jpg

Bulkhead mod like many others but with .063 backing and more rivets.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Yankee-Flyer/RV-12/Bulkhead.jpg

Ditto the floor panel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v43/Yankee-Flyer/RV-12/Floor.jpg
 
As requested, a picture of our mechanical tank gauge (Rochester from Aircraft Spruce). The calibrated ring is attached to the carpet and can't rotate as it is shaped to fit over the square gauge mount. Works a treat.

fuji051211009.jpg



Work in progress on an extended seat back support. It brings the seat back forwards around 3". Quickly changeable with the original item using the hinge pin.

fuji051211018.jpg
 
This is a great idea but I would shorten the vertical portion in order to recess the quick drain into the fuselage which may require a different quick drain fitting.

If you have a forced landing or a stall from a substantial height, you have the potential of collapsing the gear and shearing off the quick drain. This could cause a fire in an otherwise survivable landing.

Fly Safely.

Dave


In the UK we can make mods to our RV-12s during build as they'll operate under our version of the US Experimental category. We get the mods approved by our Light Aircraft Association who look after homebuilds.

I wanted to have some form of fuel tank drain for pre-flight checks and also as a handy drain point for the tank.

Initially I looked at fitting a gascolator in the line below the tank but there really wasn't space with the stab/rudder cables running through that area. Instead, I came up with a much simpler method which should work fine. One advantage of this set up is that it uses the standard pipe out of the tank to the electric fuel pump just cut at the 90 deg bend to introduce the tee piece.

I'm awaiting final approval but I can't see any reason why my set up shouldn't work as forecast and won't reduce fuel flow at all. Feel free to comment if you can see something I can't!

rv12gtwlvfdv1components.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv3pipeworkli.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv4pipeworkas.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv2componenta.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv5installloo.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv6accesshole.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv8accesshole.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv7accesshole.jpg


rv12gtwlvfdv9accesshole.jpg
 
We did consider recessing the drain valve inside the fuselage by using the next size up valve which would then not require the AN912-1D reducer.

We chose not too as we decided it was better to have an easy view of the valve during the pre-flight check in case it was leaking. With the valve recessed, a leak wouldn't be as easy to see and may result in the fuel pooling inside the fuselage.

Have a look at most certified aircraft and see how many drains are recessed...

The other reason for having the initial pipe the length that it is was that it was the shortest possible using our flaring tool to flare both ends of the pipe ;)
 
The Ray Allen stick grip mod...

My PTT switch was becoming intermittent so I decided to upgrade to the RA G101 Grips which include a high quality switch. This switch has a distinct felt "click" when pressed. Very nice.
Although there are several other stick grip threads on the forum, nothing is posted in the mod thread so here is the RA G101 grip mod on the RV-12 sticks. The grips come as a kit with sleeves to adapt to the stick diameter. The RV-12 uses the 7/8 inch sleeve.
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/16382368_t8TBtk#1642352664_4fmVFMm-A-LB][/URL]

This is the finished install:
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/16382368_t8TBtk#1642352389_smWL57g-A-LB][/URL]
A nice result is that the switch no longer snags my clothing as I reach around in the cockpit.

A small mod but a big upgrade in functionality :).

Tony
 
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RV-12 Tank Return Line Fitting 'Lock Plate'

https://picasaweb.google.com/107137...idPlate12272011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKpwtvXxqnOWg#

I have worried about turning this fitting while taking the tank out ( at least ) yearly. While doing tank 'CLIP' mod, decided to do this mod. I spent 2 hour serious work making the alum plate. I mixed JB Weld to put under the plate. The plate fitting is fairly snug, and takes a hammer and punch to put in place. I have not tried it yet, but thought anyone doing the tank mod might like to consider doing it also.

John Bender
 
Tank Mod

I also did not like the fact that pressure was being applied to a sandwiched connection on the tank. I took a different approach. I used another tank flange similar to the one for the feed line. It riveted in just like the feed line tank flange, and there is no fear of breaking the seal.

Tom
 
Great idea, I will do the same to mine today. I noticed that when I tightened up the fitting with the testing hose on it, the tank fitting started to turn. This fix is perfect for me, thanks for engineering it.

https://picasaweb.google.com/107137...idPlate12272011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKpwtvXxqnOWg#

I have worried about turning this fitting while taking the tank out ( at least ) yearly. While doing tank 'CLIP' mod, decided to do this mod. I spent 2 hour serious work making the alum plate. I mixed JB Weld to put under the plate. The plate fitting is fairly snug, and takes a hammer and punch to put in place. I have not tried it yet, but thought anyone doing the tank mod might like to consider doing it also.

John Bender
 
I have the same grips Tony, they sure seem nice. I went one further, you can buy an extra for $6 as I recall from Ray Allen, and it fits perfectly on the flap handle.

My PTT switch was becoming intermittent so I decided to upgrade to the RA G101 Grips which include a high quality switch. This switch has a distinct felt "click" when pressed. Very nice.
Although there are several other stick grip threads on the forum, nothing is posted in the mod thread so here is the RA G101 grip mod on the RV-12 sticks. The grips come as a kit with sleeves to adapt to the stick diameter. The RV-12 uses the 7/8 inch sleeve.
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/16382368_t8TBtk#1642352664_4fmVFMm-A-LB][/URL]

This is the finished install:
[url=http://tonytessitore.smugmug.com/RV-12Project/Mods/16382368_t8TBtk#1642352389_smWL57g-A-LB][/URL]
A nice result is that the switch no longer snags my clothing as I reach around in the cockpit.

A small mod but a big upgrade in functionality :).

Tony
 
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