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  #21  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:36 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Yep, same manufacturer (EMP.AV). Planeinnovations is their "store website" IIRC, but good to know there's another place like Avery's to buy them from.
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:43 AM
douglassmt douglassmt is offline
 
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Location: Missoula, MT
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Default Insulate between boxes?

Bob -

You said to insulate between the SS boxes and the firewall. I just ordered the SS boxes and will be replacing my aluminum ones. Do you mean to place a "gasket" of some type of material between the control boxes and the firewall? I guess you are saying the heat transfer there is conductive and can be significant. What would you recommend for a insulating material? Correct me if I'm wrong in my understanding.

Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:04 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Yes, you got it. A piece of silicone gasket material (the red stuff used for baffling sometimes) will work great. It does stop the conductive heating.

Vic
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2011, 09:13 AM
Wayne Gillispie Wayne Gillispie is offline
 
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Default I bought my ss ones from Plane Innovations...

they are built very well and come with a small tube of high temp sealant. I insulated firewall and tunnel floor with ceramic insulation from ACS. We'll see how it works out this fall. The wires can stand much more heat than we can. Tried a bic lighter on some tefzel and standard pvc coated wiring. Made a believer out of me.
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  #25  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:22 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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My current plan is to hook up only one side of the flap valve to only one heat muff and split the heat front and rear. It sounds to me like there is no need for both heat muffs and two heat sources. Everyone I have sopken with seems to indicate that the heat will drive you out of the plane. That is how my current aircraft is and it is more than enough heat. Use the second flap to vent cool air down the tunnel during the summer and off during the winter by having it directly connected to fresh air. I can understand how Van's demo plane would be cold, they have no insulation whatsoever, but most of us are insulating the cabin where it will not only retain the heat, but keep it cooler in the summer. If I find it is not warm enough in the winter I can always hook up the second muff.
In addition, I have layered the floor and the firewall with 1/8" ceramic insulation covered with 1/2" black insulation using the 3M ceramic cement. I tested this with a 1500 degree flame for 5 minutes and could still touch the insulation side. My firewall will have Koolmat on the engine side.
It is my belief that the type of temps that do not allow a person to touch the metal, are far to high for fuel lines, and just plane don't make good sense. If the fuel selector is hot, just think how hot the valve and the aluminum tubing is!
Bill
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  #26  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:03 PM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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You are right in that there is more than enough heat out of ONE of the RV-10 heat muffs to heat the entire cabin. You should be fine. Just make sure you supply air over the remaining heat muff and duct it overboard.

Vic
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  #27  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:09 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Vic,
I was intending on removing one of the heat muffs to avoid having to do this. I have not looked at how they are attached yet, but I will do that this evening.
Bill
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