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  #11  
Old 11-09-2016, 03:01 PM
ryschneider ryschneider is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Adam, do you have any pictures? Thanks, Ryan
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RV-7 (Finishing)
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  #12  
Old 11-10-2016, 12:52 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryschneider View Post
Scott McDaniels, I am about to start working on my tanks on an RV-7. Since you said that the sealant squeezes out during this process would you recommend a very thin layer to start? And based on your comment of scooping out the sealant, a very thin coating inside the dimple, is that correct? Then I'll come back afterward and add a fillet to the rib/skin joints. My wife is a cake decorator, I may enlist her for this job. Thanks, Ryan
The way I install a rib....

Apply sealant to the entire rib flange (I squeeze if from a bag, cake decorator style)

Use a craft stick to get the entire flange coated.

Scrap the flange in two passes with a tilted craft stick so as to leave the sealant with a peak shape that is about 1/16" thick down the center (over the top of the rivet holes) and tappers out to nothing along each edge of the flange.

Insert the rib (starting near the center first so that you can always spread the skins apart for each successive rib as you work towards the ends).

Cleco in place

Use narrow strips of scrap paper to scoop sealant out of each dimple before you insert a rivet.

Rivet from the leading edge towards the back of the tank on each rib. I always use a hand squeezer on the aft most 1 or 2 rivets because there is no stiffness to the rib and it is difficult to get the rivets to sit flush using a gun.

Finish by forming a nice fillet in the squeezed out sealant along the perimeter of the entire rib flange on both edges.
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  #13  
Old 11-10-2016, 01:48 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Location: St. Paul, MN.
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And doublecheck to be sure you're not pushing on the bucking bar against the gun. That's a common mistake of people shooting rivets and it ends up pushing the rivet back.

A light pressure on the bar against the rivet...shoot...the bucking bar lifts slightly and then your pressure brings back...slowly forming the shop head.

This is 100% technique. The Van's instructions on what to do w.r.t. ProSeal etc are just fine.

Also remember the old George Orndorf video -- people still have George's videos, right? "If you look at it and say, 'this probably isn't going leak', it probably will. If you look at it and say 'it's not going to leak,' it won't.". His fuel tank videos were incredibly helpful to me when building my tanks.

Also, make a huge mess. It's good for you.
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Last edited by LettersFromFlyoverCountry : 11-10-2016 at 01:50 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-10-2016, 03:06 PM
ryschneider ryschneider is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Thanks, I appreciate the info. I'll check out the videos.
-Ryan
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  #15  
Old 02-15-2020, 06:38 PM
sblack sblack is offline
 
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Location: Montreal
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Do people dimple or countersink the spanwise rivet line that attaches the skin to the rear baffle? I used dimples on the ribs and stiffeners but I counter sunk the skin at the baffle joint. I used a squeezer and all the rivets ended up proud and the skin was distorted upwards at each rivet. Very discouraging after all that work. I tried shooting a few with the rivet gun at they came out worse. I had counter sunk just a tiny bit too deep hoping that would compensate for the sealant. Didnít work. Should I dimple the skin along the baffle on the next tank?
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  #16  
Old 02-15-2020, 08:20 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default Dimple or countersink

Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack View Post
Do people dimple or countersink the spanwise rivet line that attaches the skin to the rear baffle? I used dimples on the ribs and stiffeners but I counter sunk the skin at the baffle joint. I used a squeezer and all the rivets ended up proud and the skin was distorted upwards at each rivet. Very discouraging after all that work. I tried shooting a few with the rivet gun at they came out worse. I had counter sunk just a tiny bit too deep hoping that would compensate for the sealant. Didn’t work. Should I dimple the skin along the baffle on the next tank?
Both. I've seen it done both ways. Countersink the skin allows the baffle to slide in clean.
I did it that way and had a few rivets sit proud. I discovered the odd rivet needed a tiny bit more removed from the mated holes to sit flush. A turn or two with a debur tool was sufficient. I also used few fat rivets to hold the baffle skin alignment. Clekos were allowing the baffle to move a tiny bit. I'm a little OCD and it bothered me.
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Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #17  
Old 02-15-2020, 09:14 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam W View Post
the packing tape was a great help
and the idea of removing the proseal from the dimple makes alot of sense

thanks to all again
did a couple more ribs and its improved but not as good as id like getting there
I learned to use rivet tape on all my flush rivets, regardless of orientation. This keeps the rivet from popping up with the first strike.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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  #18  
Old 02-15-2020, 10:24 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 881
Default Dimpled

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Both. I've seen it done both ways. Countersink the skin allows the baffle to slide in clean.
I did it that way and had a few rivets sit proud. I discovered the odd rivet needed a tiny bit more removed from the mated holes to sit flush. A turn or two with a debur tool was sufficient. I also used few fat rivets to hold the baffle skin alignment. Clekos were allowing the baffle to move a tiny bit. I'm a little OCD and it bothered me.
I dimpled the rear baffle holes and the rear baffle kind of snapped in place. I think i might have hit a few with a countersink as i was setting the rivets
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