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  #1  
Old 02-11-2020, 09:39 AM
Av8rRob's Avatar
Av8rRob Av8rRob is offline
 
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Location: Rescue, CA. KROB
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Default 149 NL starter on IO-390

Hey guys, I got the NL starter on my new engine and I have three questions for those that have already done this install.

1- The started says for 12 v install to Not remove the jumper between terminals, Vans instructions say to remove it. I assume you keep it in place?

2- Did you wire the 18ga wire from the I terminal of the starter solenoid to the small terminal like in the standard starter install?

3- Did you remove the attachment tabs on the sides on the starter?

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2020, 10:56 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8rRob View Post
Hey guys, I got the NL starter on my new engine and I have three questions for those that have already done this install.

1- The started says for 12 v install to Not remove the jumper between terminals, Vans instructions say to remove it. I assume you keep it in place?

2- Did you wire the 18ga wire from the I terminal of the starter solenoid to the small terminal like in the standard starter install?

3- Did you remove the attachment tabs on the sides on the starter?

Thanks
I followed Van's instructions for wiring and all works well. I did remove one of the tabs that interfered with snorkel fit. When you test fit the snorkel it will be easy to see where any interference is. Cutting that tab off with the starter installed was a bear: used an oscillating cutting tool AND a dremel, then ground/sanded it down smooth. I did add an extra very heavy gauge ground between the engine mount and the firewall (From the tab where the engine-to-engine mount grounding strap attaches directly to the battery ground on the firewall) - this gives starter current an additional, more direct path to ground.
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Last edited by mturnerb : 02-11-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2020, 10:59 AM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
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Who is going to give you warranty if it burns up for removing it, Van's or the manufacturer who builds them and tells you not to remove it?
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2020, 11:10 AM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
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https://hartzell.aero/news-release/s...oming-engines/

“But, that flexibility came at a cost – we have learned that when operated in a 24-volt system, the convertible unit does not provide the durability our customers deserve.”

If'n it were I, I would get a hold of Hartzell and arrange for a replacement.
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2020, 11:51 AM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjdecker View Post
https://hartzell.aero/news-release/s...oming-engines/

“But, that flexibility came at a cost – we have learned that when operated in a 24-volt system, the convertible unit does not provide the durability our customers deserve.”

If'n it were I, I would get a hold of Hartzell and arrange for a replacement.
Why replace it? Did I miss anything? It clearly says it’s great for 12volt systems and I don’t think his RV is 24volts.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2020, 12:04 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot135pd View Post
Who is going to give you warranty if it burns up for removing it, Van's or the manufacturer who builds them and tells you not to remove it?
As I understand it, the only effect that Van's wiring has, including removing the jumper, is using the starter solenoid on the firewall instead of the solenoid in the starter. How would this cause anything to "burn up"? The current to the starter is carried by a very heavy duty starter cable - that doesn't change, no matter which solenoid is activating the current.

EDIT: The statement above may be an oversimplification. I based it on reading one thread on the topic. Found this thread which is much better: http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=135312
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Last edited by mturnerb : 02-11-2020 at 12:16 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2020, 12:08 PM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
As I understand it, the only effect that Van's wiring has, including removing the jumper, is using the starter solenoid on the firewall instead of the solenoid in the starter. How would this cause anything to "burn up"? The current to the starter is carried by a very heavy duty starter cable - that doesn't change, no matter which solenoid is activating the current.
I don't even know how that starter is going to wired or anything like that. I was also not trying to imply anything would burn up literally. What I was trying to make a point was about who will give you warranty if it goes bad (burns up, craps out, goes south, etc), the company that designs them, and builds them, and sells them, and tells you what NOT to do

OR

The company that just sells them.
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2020, 12:13 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilot135pd View Post
I don't even know how that starter is going to wired or anything like that. I was also not trying to imply anything would burn up literally. What I was trying to make a point was about who will give you warranty if it goes bad (burns up, craps out, goes south, etc), the company that designs them, and builds them, and sells them, and tells you what NOT to do

OR

The company that just sells them.
Best explanation I have found for the Van's wiring recommendation is in this thread:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...d.php?t=135312
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2020, 12:51 PM
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Av8rRob Av8rRob is offline
 
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Ok, I just spoke to the man at Skytec/Hartzell and he was super helpful. First of all, right away he said the NL is the best starter for the 390. He then said he is very aware of Vans wiring and that for the NL starter you leave the jumper and do not need the smaller secondary wire. The way the NL starter works makes this second wire unnecessary. He also said removing tabs is completely fine and does not void the warranty however if possible utilize the boss mount for a strap to the alternator. He said this really tightens things up if you can do it.

So there you have it.

Thanks everybody
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