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Tip: Wandering flush rivet set

Ron B.

Well Known Member
I'm always having trouble setting rivets with a flush rivet set, alone. Your reaching over the skin with a bucking bar inside and a flush rivet set on the outside. With only one hand on the rivet gun, the set wanders in any direction as the trigger is pulled.
Today I tried double sided tape on the flush rivet set. Line up the set over the rivet and stick it on the skin. Then reach over the skin and hold the bucking bar. I riveted four nose ribs (five rivets @) this way and had very good luck. As I was doing this I found some of the tape sticking to the rivet head so I started using back riveting tape over the rivet head first then sticking the set in place and found this to give clean results.
If someone else has used this trick , I'm not trying to steal your idea, I just have not heard of anyone doing so.
Ron
 
flush set

try using a swivel flush rivet set. they have a rubber ring around them and tend to stay in one spot.
 
That is the set I have, it still wanders without the double sided tape or my second hand on the rubber. Probably just me.
 
clean

That is the set I have, it still wanders without the double sided tape or my second hand on the rubber. Probably just me.

make sure the rubber contacting surface is very clean, it will grip better. I also put rivet tape on the face of the set to keep from scratching surface if it does wander. hope this helps....
 
I'll give you the opposite opinion. This type slid around way too much. I found instead that the flush set with the rubber grommet around it was so much better. Because it does not swivel it stays where you put it; you just need to practice keeping the gun perpendicular to the skin. I never used the swivel after I finished my empennage. Good luck.
 
Rivet set moving

Ron

I understand your problem it can come from several issues.

The biggest thing that i see people do is try and drive the rivets to hard causing the set to bounce all over. I set the air pressure to the gun at 35-40 psi for # 3 rivets and 45-50 Psi for #4 rivets and 55-60 for #5 rivets this really helps alot. the next best thing i bought was a 2 in diameter flush rivet set it makes the most awesome rivets, a friend that has been in the aviation sheet metal business showed me these tricks.

This really works

your welcome to email me and i will be glad to discuss this more to help if i can.
 
Ok, this might sound kind of sloppy but it worked for me when I was getting that first rivet in the center leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer nose rib. My arms were just too short to hold the bucking bar and hold the rivet gun perpendicular and centered on the rivet head.

I had some scrap foam floor tile about 3/4 inch thick and cut a hole in it the size of the rivet set head. I taped the foam with the hole centered on the rivet to the stabilizer skin. Then, by inserting the rivet set into the hole, I knew I was lined up and, depending on the orientation, the foam took some of the gun weight off my hand. Because of the stretch, I couldn't curl my hand around to use my middle/index finger to pull the trigger. I was able to use my thumb.

Cheers.
 
I have never been a fan of the swivel type or the type with a “rubber ring” … Use a normal 1” flat set – the surface is slightly convex. As has been already said .. do not set the pressure to high … Is your surface primed ? I find less “wandering” on a primed surface .. especially a non-gloss surface.
 
This may not be the answer you're looking for, but in the professional structures world we teach to never shoot flush rivets with one hand.

If you shoot with one hand, you will bum up the skin on some.
 
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Like everything this takes practice. I find it helps to make the first few taps gentle (you must have a trigger that allows partial pressures, not just on-off) so you know how to hold your wrist. And, if you see the set sliding sideways, immediately release the trigger but do not release the pressure against the skin; then reposition and try again.
 
Doug, that's exactly the answer I'm looking for. I, like the professional world need two hands on the gun. Does this make me a professional riveter?
Thanks for all the replies
Ron
 
Played with the pressure settings and cannot say I could see a difference (within the settings I was adjusting). What did make a dramatic difference was rubbing a piece of Scotch Brite pad over the rubber and then cleaning with Acetone. It would wander about 75% less.
Thanks Mike for the tip.
Ron
 
I use the standard flush set with one layer of blue masking tape over it. It works for a dozen or so rivets before it needs to be replaced. In addition to adding friction to help keep the set steady, it minimizes scratching if it does walk a bit. Another tip is to make real sure the work is STABLE. Clamp it down tight; it's very difficult to hit a moving target!


I tried the swivel set, but could never keep it from dinging the skin. Rosie was over a couple of weeks ago, and mentioned the rubber ring on his was too long and he hand to sand it down some. If anyone wants mine come and get it, I'm too used to the standard set now.

FP07082013A00050.jpg
 
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