Elevator rigging

Been working today on connecting up and rigging the controls. Going well except for the elevator. With it rigged as per the manual, the left stick contacts the panel at full forward just before hitting the stop. The right has about 1/2" clearance. It appears that there is some manufacturing "tolerance" in one of the weldments leading to a difference in angles between the sticks.

Any ideas on how to adjust it? I was thinking about a spacer at the top of the stick attach bracket to try and ease it back a bit. Or I could lengthen the front control rod but that may give me an issue with the nose up case.

Try switching the sticks side to side, if the same stick hits the panel when on the other side of the plane, you have a bad stick

If the interference stays on the same side of the cockpit, it is the lower weldment, and you can try to have Vans replace it.

A fair number of builders - myself included - have had to decrease the stick's bend radius a bit, using a press or something like that. (I found a way to use an engine hoist!)
It can depend on the stick grip you're using.

Thanks for the replies.

Looks like there is no adjustment I can between the sides. I might try taking the left stick out and "fettling" it. Not sure how you could do it with an engine hoist but I might be able to find a large pipe bender!

I gave up with the rigging and decided to leave it till the final rebuild after paint to try and sort it out. Well, here I am........

With the control rods disconnected, I get the full elevator throw as per the manual. However, once I connect the rods and rig as per the plans, I find that I contact the instrument panel before reaching the full nose down stop. I have the stick rigged as far back as I can - any further lengthening of the front rods results in contact at the mid idler and aileron rod cutout in the tunnel. I can get 21 nose down which is within spec but the stop is at 25.

I have contacted VANS who say that this is acceptable but I might want to consider adjusting the down stop to prevent any damage to the panel in the event of a gust. I can see a way of doing that but it involves taking off the VS and HS again -

According to VANS, their stick passes under the panel- it must be a very simple set-up. I have a Ray Allen stick top that is longer and more bulbous, hence the issue. This can't be a new problem - any further ideas guys? Otherwise I might try removing the sticks and "fettling" them a bit as suggested above.

Why not just shorten the sticks to pass under the panel?

I had to shorten mine significantly in the -8...

Different set up - the RV-10 sticks are curved to pass ahead of the seat. The short straight portion on top does not allow enough length to do that.

Bend it. All the 10's (including mine) that I have flown in have bent the stick some to shorten the radius. I used 2 propane torches and a person hanging on the end of the stick to bend it about 1" down at the top.

Sounds like the answer. Not sure about the propane torches though - what does that do the powder coating and, more importantly, the strength?

Might think about using a pipe bender.......

I would not heat it, nor would I bend it. Heating will ruin the powder coat and could affect the temper and strength. Bending it the same thing.

There are two things that come into play on the -10. The first is that without a limit stop, the elevator will travel more than necessary. Most of us have added a stop and attached to the rear spar of the elevator. You can fabricate this out fo a short piece of 3/4 angle. I searched and do not have a photo of this. Maybe someone else does.

If you still have an issue with the stick forward into the panel, you can trim the lower section of the stick so that it will insert further into the WD-1011. This will move the stick further back and help the situation. Mine are trimmed back as far as the straight section will allow due. This due to the fact that I have the Aerosport panel, which is considerably more forward and lower than the stock panel. Below is a photo of my sticks.

Thanks for the input, everyone.

I am currently back working in Hong Kong so will have to look at it all next time in UK. Fitting an extra stop at the elevator end involves taking off the VS and HS again so not keen. I'll have a look at the stick geometry (shortening and/or bending) to see if that solves the problem.

Just one more thing........ I'm amazed anyone ever gets one of these things flying!

Paul,
To install an elevator stop you do not need to remove anything. Looking back at your post, it sounds like one of the sticks, or wd1011 assemblies could be suspect and you might want to call vans and get a replacement first to see if you can cure it that way.

I thought there might be some mis-rigging of the forward weldment parts initially but on reflection I think the reason the left stick impacts the panel first is because it hits the Skyview or switches whereas the right side has bare panel in front.

As far as I can see, to add a piece of angle or bar to the current forward stop would involve removing the VS and HS. Any photos of fitted additional forward stops available?

paul330 said:

I thought there might be some mis-rigging of the forward weldment parts initially but on reflection I think the reason the left stick impacts the panel first is because it hits the Skyview or switches whereas the right side has bare panel in front.

As far as I can see, to add a piece of angle or bar to the current forward stop would involve removing the VS and HS. Any photos of fitted additional forward stops available?

Click to expand...

I don't have a photo, but trust me that you do not have to take the VS or HS off to install a stop. Take a look on page 11-6, step 6 of the plans. It's just piece of angle that you have to install. It's very easy to install, assuming you have a right angle drill to get under the VS.

If I could do it, anyone can.

Bob

Paul,
You may also have to vary some of the recommended adjustments of the various rod ends to accommodate the travel. When you do, just make sure that you have the proper and sufficient thread engagement! I will be at the hangar today and take a photo of the stop for you.

Just to close this thread.

Last time in UK I finally managed to get the rigging right.

There was a substantial amount of stick top that could be removed so that the Ray Allen unit could be lowered but still not enough to go under the switch panel. A minor "re-profiling" of the stick using a pipe bender completed the process so that the stick now stops just short of the panel.

Thanks everyone for the inputs.