Crankcase vacuum kit

is anyone running the crankcase vacuum kit from anti-splat??? Looking for some feedback.
they claim a few horsepower bump along with multiple other benefits
Thanks

Installs per instructions

Easy install. My fuse belly stays cleaner. Dont know if oil consumption is less cause I just add if needed. Response and service is great. I screwed up ordering the system for my RV4 project and they shipped the hose I missed free frm CA.

Love it on my 9A, can't say for sure about a power bump because I've been running it since first flight, but oil consumption is low, about 1 quart in 10 hours, and my belly stays clean.

The check valve dumping the vapor into the exhaust line will need to be cleaned annually, it chokes up with carbon coke.

Tread cautiously with check valves on your crank vent line. Lots of info here in the archives to make you question the wisdom.

I have no firsthand experience... I?ve been using a lithium iron battery for years, but I?d never put a check valve on my aircraft breather that feeds directly into the exhaust.

Don

dtw_rv6 said:

Tread cautiously with check valves on your crank vent line. Lots of info here in the archives to make you question the wisdom.

I have no firsthand experience... I’ve been using a lithium iron battery for years, but I’d never put a check valve on my aircraft breather that feeds directly into the exhaust.

Don

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Why not? Afraid it will block off and blow the front crank seal? There's an option for that, you know.

Or you can just clean periodically, as the manufacturer suggests.

Crankcase evac

Been using it for 450 hrs- since first flight- no oil on the belly is worth the cost and maintenance is minor- I?m using check valve from GM. It?s an oe part and better quality than the aftermarket versions IMHO. I can get you the part# if you want.

DanH said:

https://www.danhorton.net/Articles/Separator-or-Condenser.pdf

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I love it when these unexpected learning opportunities pop up on VAF! I’ve been very happy so far with the AeroSplat oil separator I installed and the resulting clean belly and reduced oil consumption. However, after reading Dan’s excellent article, I’m definitely going to install a temporary catch-can for a while to observe what is being returned to my crankcase, and consider insulating the 28”x3/4”ID line between the breather outlet and the separator if I see evidence of condensation.

I opted NOT to install the negative pressure feature, partly out of concern for blockage of the exhaust-pulse driven vacuum pump, but mainly because the argument for added horsepower was a bit disengenuous. I was told it came from reduction of pressure at the bottom of the pistons being added to the positive combustion pressure at the top of the pistons. Hold on!- There is always a piston travelling upward for each one travelling downward, so this “bump” is being cancelled perfectly at all times!

That said, I’m a BIG fan of AeroSplat, and have added many of their mods, like bearings on all three wheels, to my 7A.- Otis

Excellent factual article as usual Dan.

One issue we in the experiential world face, by nature, is the lack of standards and uniformity, or conformity.
This is especially true with our FWF systems.

If one decides to install a crankcase return venting system, I would hope they document, placard, or in some other way call attention to it. Your airplane may not always be your airplane. It may fall into the hands of an uneducated (read some of the maintenance post on VAF), or ignorant owner who has no idea he has an extra maintenance item to look after, one that may bring an airplane down.

Off the top of my head, I can’t think of any other accessory in the FWF system that has this kind of potential to catch the unwary. If I was going to install a system like this I would make the bypass reed mandatory.
For those that do install a system, don’t assume a future owner would have as thourough an understanding of the airplane as you do, even if they should.

Hartstoc said:

....I’m definitely going to install a temporary catch-can for a while to observe what is being returned to my crankcase, and consider insulating the 28”x3/4”ID line between the breather outlet and the separator if I see evidence of condensation.

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Remember, every cold start will probably put some water in the catch can. The initial breather flow isn't hot enough to put it in vapor phase.

I opted NOT to install the negative pressure feature, partly out of concern for blockage of the exhaust-pulse driven vacuum pump, but mainly because the argument for added horsepower was a bit disengenuous. I was told it came from reduction of pressure at the bottom of the pistons being added to the positive combustion pressure at the top of the pistons.

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Case evacuators have been around racing a long time. I was running one disguised as a catch can back in the mid 80's...legal cheating. Plenty of dyno evidence showing HP increases, the actual increase depending on various factors. Some car people even use a pump.

As you already know, the deltaP explanation is nonsense. However, a reduction in density means a corresponding reduction in crankcase pumping losses. In our 4-cyl crankcase, we pump from the front cylinder bay to the rear cylinder bay through the center main bearing web, then back again in one rev. Density reduction also reduces windage. At the furthermost extension of the principle, imagine trying to suspend an oil droplet in a vacuum at one G. Not possible.

Mostly I like having a Lycoming which does not leak.

JonJay said:

If I was going to install a system like this I would make the bypass reed mandatory.

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Absolutely.

I've used an Moroso crankcase evacuation valve for many years on my 360. I've been using systems like these on race engines and motorcycles for as far back as I can remember. Yes, they do work.. But they must be clean and the valve checked on a regular basis. If the valve fails it will be open all the time, it won't damage anything. It doesn't add pressure to the crankcase it just won't evacuate the crankcase. I haven't used the AntiSplat product so no pirep there but the USA made valve kits for race cars work fine. You need to weld the pipe into the exhaust and you're ready to run.