"Angle rivets"??

On DWG 20, location 2E, the plan says:

AN470AD4?7
ALL F?705D BLKHD SIDE CHANNEL
TO F?705E BULKHEAD SIDE DBLR
TO F?705F CHANNEL TO F?705G
ANGLE RIVETS (SEE NOTE 5)

Click to expand...

Note 5 says:

NOTE 5: TIP?UP CANOPY ONLY.
DO NOT RIVET UNTIL SIDE SKINS
ARE INSTALLED. DRILL AND CLECO ONLY.

Click to expand...

Well it is now time to rivet these (I do have a tip-up).

My question is, what are "angle rivets"? Or is "angle" a verb, and telling the builder to angle the rivets while installing?

These 3 or 4 rivets seem to be impossible to install. Not even a pull rivet with the squeezer will fit in there. The only way seems to be to cut away some of the aft end of F?721B aft canopy deck. But that doesn't seem right.

"part number" "descriptor"

"F705G" "angle".

F705G is a piece of angle.

The rivet in question is the one that holds the 705D (bulkhead side channel) to the 705E (bulkhead side doubler) to the 705F (channel) to the 705G (angle), in that order.

F-705G is an ANGLE which sits aft of the rest of the F-705 pieces.

Re-read the plans and move the carriage return after the "F-705G" to after the word ANGLE. Like this:

AN470AD4?7
ALL F?705D BLKHD SIDE CHANNEL
TO F?705E BULKHEAD SIDE DBLR
TO F?705F CHANNEL TO F?705G ANGLE
RIVETS (SEE NOTE 5)


I decided to carve out some space on the F-705G to allow the eventual bucking of the rivets on the side skins. As designed, there is no way to buck the side skin rivets, or even enough room to use pull rivets.



I waited until pretty late in the canopy frame installation to finally rivet in the F-705G ANGLE. I was able to buck or squeeze these AN470AD4-8's (-7's were too short as called out in the plans) without any issues. A short single offset rivet set is one of those essential tools you need in your tool box to get to these.



There are 2 flush rivets on the longeron that sit underneath the canopy frame brackets. I had drilled and countersunk these for AN426AD3's, but it turns out these take AN426AD4-10's. I searched high and low for -10's but only had -11's. Looking at the Fuselage HW list, in the bag marked "Misc: Tip Up Hardware" is a note that these -11's are to be cut to -10's. Weird place for that note. This information should be on the plans.

bruceh said:

Click to expand...

Bruce,
I am curious about your skin to longeron AD3 rivets on the RV9. On my 7 tip up, I had to wait until I had the baggage area top skin in place --> shoot the few skin rivets that would be covered by 705G--> then put in the 705G Angle. It was a real pain to have to wait that long, mosly because of the lingering clecos and secondly because 3 or 4 of the AN470AD4s were a real challenge.

After finishing, I thought to myself if I ever became a DAR, I would be able to inspect a whole RV with one look at those 705G rivets. If they are done well, the rest of the craft has to be done well.

rzbill said:

Bruce,
I am curious about your skin to longeron AD3 rivets on the RV9.

Click to expand...

I haven't put the aft top skin on yet. I should be able to buck the three side rivets that sit next to the F-705G angle. If not, I will put some pull rivets in there. With the notches I put in the angle, pull rivets will work. As designed, there is no space to even get the pull rivets to sit flush before pulling them. I think it will be much easier to get the angle riveted in place first, before the roll bar and side skins are riveted.

bruceh said:

I think it will be much easier to get the angle riveted in place first, before the roll bar and side skins are riveted.

Click to expand...

This is how I did mine. Nice craftsmanship Bruce I wish I had that precision.

Interesting quirk for the pre-punched kits.

With the older DIY (drill-it-yourself) kits it was easy to just lower those rivets a little, while still keeping the edge distance on the longerons, to make riveting possible.

I'm surprised Vans didn't just program this into the CNC machine....

bruceh said:

F-705G is an ANGLE which sits aft of the rest of the F-705 pieces.

Re-read the plans and move the carriage return after the "F-705G" to after the word ANGLE. Like this:

AN470AD4?7
ALL F?705D BLKHD SIDE CHANNEL
TO F?705E BULKHEAD SIDE DBLR
TO F?705F CHANNEL TO F?705G ANGLE
RIVETS (SEE NOTE 5)

Click to expand...

Doh! Thanks for the English correction.

A problem with the QB kits is the F-721B Aft Canopy Deck is already riveted in place, and it nearly blocks the upper/inner-most two rivets to the F-705G Angle:



(The larger hole I drilled for the static line).

I've ordered an offset 1/8" cupped rivet set which I hope can get in there.

Buggsy,

Did you ever find a way to get to those uppermost rivets in the F-705G angle? I have the same issue on my -7A QB: they are inside the canopy deck. :-(

Thanks,
Russ

Bolt and Nut?

I have not built a 7 but similar issues have occurred with other models.
I have found that an offset rivet set is a pretty sure way to ruin a rivet
especially in a place like that.
I would use a small bolt and nut.

Ah, that's a good idea!

Thanks,
Russ

Figured out the solution to this puzzle...

Surprisingly, my Tungsten bucking bar slipped right up inside the canopy deck channel to pretty easily buck the 2 sneaky rivets on each side. This just required that the manufactured heads face aft instead of forward. No bolts required, at least for the 7.

grayforge said:

This just required that the manufactured heads face aft instead of forward.

Click to expand...

That's what I finally did for my -9A.

bruceh said:

Click to expand...

rzbill said:

Bruce,
I am curious about your skin to longeron AD3 rivets on the RV9. On my 7 tip up, I had to wait until I had the baggage area top skin in place --> shoot the few skin rivets that would be covered by 705G--> then put in the 705G Angle. It was a real pain to have to wait that long, mosly because of the lingering clecos and secondly because 3 or 4 of the AN470AD4s were a real challenge.

After finishing, I thought to myself if I ever became a DAR, I would be able to inspect a whole RV with one look at those 705G rivets. If they are done well, the rest of the craft has to be done well.

Click to expand...

This is correct for the 7 tip up. I got riveted in to a corner and had to remove the finished roll bar, and both F705G angles to relieve them and set the final baggage skin rivets. 22 hrs. AND - if that side rail is riveted on top of the longeron, it is impossible to set all the F705 G rivets. Do yourself a favor people, do it Bill's way if you want solid rivets, and BruceH's way as a minimum to allow some cherry max for those last three on each side. Get very good at using an offset rivet driver.