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NACA air inlets

C

Crowbar

Member
I originally glued the NACA ramp air inlets to the fuselage using J B Weld epoxy. I also secured the inlet end with a couple of pop rivets. The left air inlet has come loose with only the rivets holding it in place. I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a better glue and a clever way apply it, since there isn't much gap between the inlet and the fuselage.
 
Welcome to the VAF!

I used proseal. Six years and 510 hours later, they aren't going anywhere.

BTW, I taped mine in place while the proseal hardened, no rivets of any kind.
 
Warren, Welcome to VAF. I used a structural adhesive from Aircraft Spruce and a spring loaded rod (like a small shower/curtain rod) to hold them in place while the adhesive set. Like previous posters, I would just use Proseal if I did it again.
 
Proseal and holding force

ProsealNacaVents2.JPG
 
Crowbar said:
I originally glued the NACA ramp air inlets to the fuselage using J B Weld epoxy. I also secured the inlet end with a couple of pop rivets. The left air inlet has come loose with only the rivets holding it in place. I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a better glue and a clever way apply it, since there isn't much gap between the inlet and the fuselage.
Click to expand...

Use a syringe (no needle, thanks) to inject proseal. You can ask for a kid's medicine syringe at your local pharmacy. They give 'em away.
 
The n6000 glue from tap plastic, nearly five years and 430 hours and as solid as ever. It is easy to apply and did not require any thing to hold it in place to set, only hold it for a few minutes and you are done.
 
new question

New question on old thread:

Has anyone successfully used West Systems epoxy to glue the plastic naca vents in place (using fast hardener due to temps)? I'm in the middle of building up my RV10 door frame with the cabin top off. Very convenient to do this now and my proseal supply is well past its shelf-life.

Thanks,
 
jwilbur said:
New question on old thread:

Has anyone successfully used West Systems epoxy to glue the plastic naca vents in place (using fast hardener due to temps)? I'm in the middle of building up my RV10 door frame with the cabin top off. Very convenient to do this now and my proseal supply is well past its shelf-life.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Mix some proseal and see if it sets. Shelf life is often a just a suggestion.
 
Raymo said:
Mix some proseal and see if it sets. Shelf life is often a just a suggestion.
Click to expand...

I'd rather use epoxy. Has anyone used it successfully before bonding plastic to aluminum? Not sure what kind of plastic the naca vents are.
 
Joe, epoxy has great compressive strength, but not so good peel strength. It has a hard time adhering to aluminum. I suspect that proseal is the superior adhesive in this application. As for your proseal being old, as long as you can mix a test batch and it cures, you are good to go.
 
aturner said:
Joe, epoxy has great compressive strength, but not so good peel strength. It has a hard time adhering to aluminum. I suspect that proseal is the superior adhesive in this application. As for your proseal being old, as long as you can mix a test batch and it cures, you are good to go.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I'll give my batch of proseal a test.
 
You could probably use Goop Automotive Trim Adhesive, but don't blame me if they fall off. (I'm used it to glue zip tie pads all over the airframe to hold my wires in place. 7 years and 700 hours later they are still there.)
 
N941WR said:
You could probably use Goop Automotive Trim Adhesive, but don't blame me if they fall off. (I'm used it to glue zip tie pads all over the airframe to hold my wires in place. 7 years and 700 hours later they are still there.)
Click to expand...

I've had good experience with two-part epoxy I bought at Home Depot for zip tie pads, but I'm not flying yet so we'll see. I considered using it for these vents but I probably won't. .... I genuinely hate to do this with proseal. It's such a royal sticky mess and I detest working with that stuff. ... But I will.
 
Epoxy not so pretty good for that app. I can almost guarante the first time it gets a good hip bump it will crack off. Proseal or 5200. Something with flex and good peel characteristics.
 
Another ProSeal ProPonent. :)

I used 3M blue tape to hold it place from the outside, until the ProSeal set up. Works great!

 
For holding items in place, I highly recommend high strength bar magnets (http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Neodymiu...g-Rare-Earth-1-2-x-1-4-Inch-N52-/171787023356). These little guys are super strong and work perfectly to hold things to the skin where a clamp just can't reach. I used them on my rudder cable fairings, my vents, and my static ports. Once the proseal has cured, they stick on the side of my tool cart until I need them the next time. They also work great for holding plans to the side of the plane while working.
 
A different method.....

Since the tank sealant can be a bit messy (though as already mentioned is the preferred method for good peal strength and to allow for flexibility and expansion/contraction), my preferred method is to drill two #40 positioning holes that allow the NACA housing to be clecoed into place. Makes it real easy to get it aligned without it sliding all over and making a mess, and it holds it in place until the sealant cures. Once cured, machine countersink slightly and fill the holes with 1097 flush rivets.
 
old proseal

The Old Proseal will cure, but be prepared for it to take 4 or 5 days! That's about how long mine took to cure. But it seems to be just fine.
 
Sticky situation...

Crowbar said:
I originally glued the NACA ramp air inlets to the fuselage using J B Weld epoxy. I also secured the inlet end with a couple of pop rivets. The left air inlet has come loose with only the rivets holding it in place. I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a better glue and a clever way apply it, since there isn't much gap between the inlet and the fuselage.
Click to expand...

I used Hy-Sol on both of my RV's as it's easily as strong as pro-seal and less messy. Mix it up, apply as shown above and tape in place till it sets.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...gle-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=00611699

It's what Lancair guys bond their wing skins with...it ain't coming loose.
V/R
Smokey
 
Get a little carried away?

kcpilot81 said:
For holding items in place, I highly recommend high strength bar magnets (http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Neodymiu...g-Rare-Earth-1-2-x-1-4-Inch-N52-/171787023356). These little guys are super strong and work perfectly to hold things to the skin where a clamp just can't reach. I used them on my rudder cable fairings, my vents, and my static ports. Once the proseal has cured, they stick on the side of my tool cart until I need them the next time. They also work great for holding plans to the side of the plane while working.
Click to expand...

I want some aluminum magnets too. Have a good source? :eek:

Actually, they would be perfect to find the back-rivet plate and use as a safety stop.
 
Epoxy and Aluminum

Epoxy will bond permanently to aluminum if the surface is prepared correctly. Scuff the surface with Scotch pad, etch with aluminum prep (acid) solution, wash acid off with clean water. Dry completely and bond the surfaces together with epoxy flox (thin). It will not peel or sepatate ever. Only temps over 150 degrees will harm it. You should also use the same prep for any bonding agent to alum.
 
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