Remote Oil Filter & Standby Alternator

Hey, a question for the brain trust:

I am using an Airwolf remote oil filter on my Barrett IO-540X and would like to add a B&C BC410-H standby alternator to the vacuum pad.

Has anyone used this combination, and is there adequate clearance between the remote adapter bolted to the engine and the alternator case?

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'm curious about why you decided to use the Airwolf remote oil filter mount. Isn't there tons of room in the 10 cowl for changing the oil filter in its "stock" location? Is there some other reason you opted for the remote filter mount?

ppilotmike said:

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'm curious about why you decided to use the Airwolf remote oil filter mount. Isn't there tons of room in the 10 cowl for changing the oil filter in its "stock" location? Is there some other reason you opted for the remote filter mount?

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With a backup alternator and a few other accessories, I found it still to be a bit awkward. I wouldn't define it as ton's of room.

So after a year or so of flying I installed the B&C adapter, which makes changing the filter so much easier and less messy. I don't have any experience with the Airwolf.

bob

ppilotmike said:

I don't know the answer to your question, but I'm curious about why you decided to use the Airwolf remote oil filter mount. Isn't there tons of room in the 10 cowl for changing the oil filter in its "stock" location? Is there some other reason you opted for the remote filter mount?

Click to expand...

Agree with Mike. Installed one of those Airwolf remote setups in the Cozy MKIV. Adds a lot of unnecessary weight, very expensive, and found it was just as inconvenient to change the oil and filter as it was without one,,,and just as messy. It also adds more points for possible oil leaks and hose failure. There is plenty of space in the RV-10 to put a modified empty 1 quart oil container under the oil filter for a no muss and no fuss oil/filter change.

Well...

I am with Bob, there isn't really a ton of room back there. As for the remote oil filter, I mounted it on the lower right side of the firewall, vertically. It is waaayyy more accessible than on the back of the accessory case and, being vertically mounted, it will minimize the mess. I had this same setup on a 182, and it worked out great.

As for the cost, well yeah, I think it isn't cheap but it isn't any different than spending 1200 on an overhead, 3000+ on leather, 1500+ on interior panels, 1500+ on a CF panel, etc... None of which is anything but aesthetic. They are all choices that we all get to make as part of the process. That is what makes this FUN...

Again, this is just my opinion, and what I chose to do.

I suppose I shouldn't say that I am using Dual EFII, 9:1, Cold Air Induction, and Reiff Preheat, and Billet Rocker Covers on my Barrett engine for fear of reprisal.

No reprisals here..

..I just haven't gotten that far in my build yet (haven't even ordered my finishing kit or engine), so I was curious about the reasons behind your decision. Build on.

Yep!

Yeah, it seems like every section further along you get, there are many, many different ways to go.

Have you given any thought to your engine choice? Be prepared for sticker shock!

Also, there are many possible deletions you can make in the finish kit depending on what paths you choose to take...

I went with the Matco brakes, Cee Bailey windows, ShowPlanes Cowl, to name a few...

If you need a stock windscreen, I have an extra one. It didn't get deleted from the kit and would be cost prohibitive to send it back to Vans...

rocketman1988 said:

I went with the Matco brakes, Cee Bailey windows, ShowPlanes Cowl, to name a few...

If you need a stock windscreen, I have an extra one. It didn't get deleted from the kit and would be cost prohibitive to send it back to Vans...

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So, is your Cee Bailey windscreen that much darker than the stock windscreen? I ask, because a lot of people go with the CBs and say they get a darker tint. I also have the stock windscreen that came with my fuse kit as well as the rear window panels. I investigated sending them back for a refund to offset the cost of aftermarket, and found I'd still be paying quite a bit more for a Cee Bailey "upgrade."

No

No, I don't think it is very different in color from the stock windscreen.

Yeah, the "kit" price of the parts from Vans is MUCH less than if you were to purchase them separately from them. So when you send them back and get the "kit" price credit plus the shipping, well, just wasn't worth it.

I actually got a really good deal on the Cee Baileys, and they were near a perfect fit right out of the box...

It is definitely better to figure out what to delete from the kits first than to have to send unused parts back...

Spacer Needed?

rleffler said:

With a backup alternator and a few other accessories, I found it still to be a bit awkward. I wouldn't define it as ton's of room.

So after a year or so of flying I installed the B&C adapter, which makes changing the filter so much easier and less messy. I don't have any experience with the Airwolf.

bob

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Bob,

Did your installation require one of B&C's spacers for their oil filter adapter? The engine mount's top diagonal tube looks like it would interfere with the filter in its new position without one.

Data point

I just changed the oil a couple of days ago and agree 100% with Bob that the space is limited (especially with a backup alt on the vacuum pump pad) Having said that with practice, it's not difficult and can be done mess free and certainly doesn't necessitate a remote oil system (but there's nothing wrong installing one).

Here's what I use. After I've drained the oil, I position a form-a-funnel oil drip sleeve under the filter and point it down towards my used oil 5-gal


Home Depot bucket that I position just off to the right side of the engine. Bear in mind there's a bajillion ways to handle the filter (both home rolled and store bought that work just as well) so this is "a way" and not "the way". With the funnel in place, I use a filter wrench like this one from Anti-Splat Aero pictured below (again there's more than one way to skin this cat) plus a short ratchet extension to generate some offset to remove and install the filter. I then loosen but don't immediately remove the filter to let it drain a bit first. Easy-peasy.



On a side note, access to the back of the engine, firewall engine recess, and anything in the vicinity (heater boxes, etc) is really pretty limited once the engine is mounted and everything (hoses, wiring, etc) is installed. Do yourself a favor and anything that needs to get mounted in this area or on the back of the engine is WAYYYYYY easier to do before you mount the engine.

bruceflys said:

Bob,

Did your installation require one of B&C's spacers for their oil filter adapter? The engine mount's top diagonal tube looks like it would interfere with the filter in its new position without one.

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Sure did! The backup alternator will need some shims too if you have one. The best thing to do is to call B&C directly to get the right combination for your situation. It's not a one size fits all.

Cee Bailey plastics

rocketman1988 said:

No, I don't think it is very different in color from the stock windscreen.

Yeah, the "kit" price of the parts from Vans is MUCH less than if you were to purchase them separately from them. So when you send them back and get the "kit" price credit plus the shipping, well, just wasn't worth it.

I actually got a really good deal on the Cee Baileys, and they were near a perfect fit right out of the box...

It is definitely better to figure out what to delete from the kits first than to have to send unused parts back...

Click to expand...

This "good deal" you got on the transparencies from Cee Bailey - how did you swing that?

For RV-10s, the B&C oil filter adapter requires their 1.4" spacer for clearance with the engine mount. IF also installing their pad mount SD-20/BC-410H alternators you will need the spacer kit for that. Those pad mount alternators only need the spacer if also installing the B&C angled oil filter adapter.