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Does the RV-10 and/or RV-14 firewall mounted oil cooler fit on the RV-7 firewall

Fly2KiteSurf

Active Member
1. Does the RV10 and/or RV14 firewall mounted oil cooler fit on the RV7 firewall?

2. If the larger physical size of the 10 & 14 oil cooler prohibit it from being used on the RV7, does anyone know of a ready-to-go kit that allows a firewall mounted cooler on the RV7 with minimum fabrication?

3. Please post photos of firewall mounted oil coolers on RV7's?

Thanks guys!
 
Why?

Are you concerned about cooling? Thinking of going bigger. I did and kind of wish I didn't. I live in central Texas and went with a larger oil cooler and find it difficult to get the oil hot during the cooler months. I have it tapped up totally and still can only get it above 180 with an extended climb above 6000 feet. My friends that went stock have no issues in the summer and still tape up theirs as well. Lets see where others weigh in on this. :)
 
Guess I should have clarified. Thanks for pointing that out.....

I am not interested in a larger oil cooler. I just don't like the weight and stress up on the cooling baffles and repairing cracks and patches, etc...

I can fix the current cracks on the -7 I just purchased, or relocate the oil cooler to the firewall?

Thought about using the 10 or 14 oil cooler bracket if it fits (or similar bracket if available) on the firewall of my -7, but use the standard smaller oil cooler.

Hope that clarifies things.

Advise appreciated.
 
I mounted the larger oil cooler from the 10 on the firewall of my 7A.
I also installed a 4" butterfly valve to control the airflow through the cooler.
This setup has worked very well for me for nearly 150 hours now.

Hope this helps,
Jason


3134r5e.jpg



2yns776.jpg
 
I mounted the RV10 oil cooler bracket to the firewall of my RV7A along with a 4" butterfly valve that will be controlled via cable from the cockpit.

The bracket from the RV10 kit has the inlet hole offset to the the inboard side which would cause interference with the scat tube hitting the motor mount tube.

In my case I solved this issue by moving the hole over to the other, outboard side. Moving the hole turned into a bit of a miserable welding job and I suspect the alloy is 2024 alclad, which is considered a non weldable alloy.

I got it done and believe it is strong and serviceable. I do not recommend doing it via welding. The hole should have been moved over via sheet metal work, cutting and riveting etc. If you were to go to that much trouble you might as well just make the thing yourself.

Mine holds the legendary 8432R oil cooler and I look forward to seeing this combination at work in this summer's AZ temperatures. With everything in position the bottom of the cooler is very close to a motor mount tube but I did not have to bend anything to gain clearance.

Randall in Sedona
IO-375, WW RV200
 
Thanks, Bob. Avery is, for some reason, not a place I would intuitively look for this part... DOH! :)

There was another company manufacturing and selling them. One of the owners passed away and the remaining owner operated the business for awhile. Then he turned over sales to Avery.
 
Guess I should have clarified. Thanks for pointing that out.....

I am not interested in a larger oil cooler. I just don't like the weight and stress up on the cooling baffles and repairing cracks and patches, etc...

I can fix the current cracks on the -7 I just purchased, or relocate the oil cooler to the firewall?

Thought about using the 10 or 14 oil cooler bracket if it fits (or similar bracket if available) on the firewall of my -7, but use the standard smaller oil cooler.

Hope that clarifies things.

Advise appreciated.

I am building a 7. A 180hp, parallel valve, no cooling jet engine. I considered seriously whether the baffles could be made durable. After researching for hours and days, I concluded that the three things would achieve that (durability), an angle along the LR corner, a stiffener from the top left corner of the cooler angling down to the head screw, and a stiffener from the upper right corner of the cooler forward to the engine case. The first two stiffeners attach to the two screws on the #4 head. The third stiffener addresses the wagging, pivoting, along the corner. Paul Dye replaced his baffles and documented the process here.

Concluding they will be durable, I decided to mount mine to the baffles in the standard manner. YMMV

Positives for the remote mount are air flow control and any risk of baffle cracks. The negatives are, careful attention must be paid to ensure adequate airflow, and the pain of a modified installation. Although there are many well made successful installations, some are not.

I am admittedly jaded being off plan on too many items already and not wanting (needing) to tackle this one. :(

So, I would advise (verb) you to appropriately beef up the baffles. That is my advice (the noun). Either way can be durable and cool.
 
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3mxc,
Do you have any pictures of your oil cooler mounted with the engine and mount affixed to firewall. Would like to see the clearance allowed.
 
IO390

I'm putting an IO390 on the new 7. I mounted the engine then held everything in place to get clearances. Removed the engine and put everything on the firewall. Here's a pic of the progress so far. The engines goes back on permanently after I get back from vacation in a couple of weeks.


331dhc7.jpg
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Last edited:
Guess I should have clarified. Thanks for pointing that out.....

I am not interested in a larger oil cooler. I just don't like the weight and stress up on the cooling baffles and repairing cracks and patches, etc...

Thought about using the 10 or 14 oil cooler bracket if it fits (or similar bracket if available) on the firewall of my -7, but use the standard smaller oil cooler.

.

I share your aversion to baffle mounted coolers. I recommend however to not use the RV-10 firewall bracket. For me it creates unnecessary airflow backpressure from the multiple changes in airflow direction. On my RV-10 the cooler is mounted horizontally and has a simple plenum on top to connect the scat hose.

Use the cooler you have (unless you have reason not to). Make a simple bracket out of .063 aluminum angle, feed it with a 3" hose off the baffle and use a butterfly valve.

Carl
 
When i built my 7A I mounted the oil cooler on the firewall using a home made bracket. 3 inch hose. I did not use RV-10 cooler. Worked good.
Dave
 
Oil Cooler - orientation?

I'm putting an IO390 on the new 7. I mounted the engine then held everything in place to get clearances. Removed the engine and put everything on the firewall. Here's a pic of the progress so far. The engines goes back on permanently after I get back from vacation in a couple of weeks.

Interesting Pic with the Vertical Power PPS - which doesn't seem to be 'available' anywhere on their web site ... ;-o

Question - Your oil cooler is mounted with BOTH inlet and outlet on the topside, and I was under the impression that generally this would be inlet on the LOWER, and outlet on the UPPER fittings, respectively. The concept of thermal rise to engine return line consistent with that. Of course, the forced flow may negate any such thermal flow factors. Maybe?

Very shiny stainless FW!!
 
Interesting Pic with the Vertical Power PPS - which doesn't seem to be 'available' anywhere on their web site ... ;-o

Question - Your oil cooler is mounted with BOTH inlet and outlet on the topside, and I was under the impression that generally this would be inlet on the LOWER, and outlet on the UPPER fittings, respectively. The concept of thermal rise to engine return line consistent with that. Of course, the forced flow may negate any such thermal flow factors. Maybe?

Very shiny stainless FW!!

Honestly, I am not sure why the locations would make a difference in this case. Locating the inlet on the lower side makes good thermodynamic sense if baffle mounted as the hotter oil would engage with the hotter air off the head on the lower side. That would leave the delta-T of the top side still able to remove more heat from the oil. In this case, it is not clear if the air coming in has any temperature gradient across the face to benefit from a port location change.

This is certainly open to discussion.
 
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