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  #11  
Old Yesterday, 08:39 AM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mount Vernon, Wa
Posts: 430
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I'm gonna take a stab at this, because I had similar concerns when I first started on the tail of my RV-8.

I tried riveting the skin on my horizontal stab and wasn't happy at all with the way the flush skin rivets sat. None of them were perfectly flush.

I found out that I was under dimpling. I read something that referred to the dimple dies as "spring-back" dimple dies. This got me to thinking about bottoming out the die set in the squeezer and then giving that extra little push. And, sure enough, there was a bit of spring back when you let off. It leaves a perfectly symmetrical little halo on the dimpled skin, around the rivet hole when done properly. Its especially noticeable when using the DRDT-2 that is bolted down to a sturdy surface.

Try this and see if it doesn't cure your problem.
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  #12  
Old Today, 07:19 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TShort View Post
I found that when dimpling with the C-frame I got better results if I hit twice. First hit would set the dimple, then the second (harder) hit would ensure that it was properly formed.
[snip]
I use a fat (~3" dia) heavy rubber mallet with the C-frame. 2nd hit is like driving a 20P framing nail; quite hard. And the C-frame needs to be on a surface with zero flex; either a concrete floor, or on a sturdy bench directly over a leg that's sitting on a rigid floor surface.

Charlie
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  #13  
Old Today, 12:08 PM
gasman gasman is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,522
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A wooden or rawhide mallet works great with a C-frame with little operator fatigue.
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