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Vinyl color wrapped finish, along with polished Aluminum.

BruceEicher

Well Known Member
Paint for airplanes

HulaGirl has been flying now for 18 months, 175 hours with the 3M 1080 film holding up just fine.
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Alternate to paint finishes:
Vinyl color wrapped finish, along with polished Aluminum.
Why;
I wanted a finish that I could do myself, within my skill set and in my hanger which does not allow spray painting. Plus a process that can be done a little each weekend while keeping the plane flight ready.
Added benefits;
It offers a lower cost and is easy to redo for bad application technique, hanger rash, wear, or just plain getting tired of looking at it. Plus it is a clean process with little clean-up.
Products used;
3M 1080 Controltac film for all colors but chrome. And Avery Conform Chrome. The 3M comes in a width of 60” (which worked great for the 8’s wing cord) and the Chrome is 48” wide. For my scheme I purchased 40 running feet of gloss Intense blue, 6’ of gloss white, 6’ of gloss black, 6’ of matte black, 5’ of gloss bright yellow and 10’ of chrome. This gave some extra for mistakes…I also used 2.5 rolls of knifeless tape (164’ each roll), less than a pint of 3M primer and same of 3M edge sealer. All that is needed for special tools is a couple felt wrapped squeegees and an electric heat gun. I also bought and liked the Rapid Prep surface cleaner and Rapid Tac application fluid for final surface clean prep. Above all totaled $1300
Flyboy Accessories produced their Military Graphics package adding squadron letters and “HulaGirl” lettering. $480
Professional Sign and Graphics in Wilsonville OR did the HulaGirl Nose Art, Lei Tail Art (with both graphics purchased online from image stock house) plus guns produced from my photo of a museum P-51 $327
I did sneak the unfinished Cowl and Spinner to Tualatin Auto Body and they gave it back filled and painted in 4.5 days for only $810. Bringing the project total to $2900
I will share my experience on the steps I used. I am not at all saying I achieved perfection or that what I did was the right way. My expectation was a “ten foot” quality finish and I feel I attained such. But with a little redo here and there plus some more polishing I might get it down to 7 feet.
Preparation of surfaces.
The film does little to hide surface imperfections and textures. (Coverage over flush rivets and fiberglass pinholes looks great.) The same sand, fill, sand, prime and sand process could be done as with paint. But I did this prep on the more porous fiberglass like wheel pants, hand fabricated windshield and leg transitions, plus the canopy skirt. Wing and tail tips, gear leg fairings, and empennage root fairings I just lightly sanded the smooth release coat surface. I am happy with the results, especially considering the easy prep. Prep for the aluminum surfaces was just cleaning. I experimented with Applying the film over a sample that had been scotch padded and it covered fine.
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Planning of cuts, shapes and applications of film.
I avoided some compound curves with planned seams. Seams should be overlapping down and aft to avoid airstream lifting and water seeping. So I started from the rear and the bottom of the plane. Most pieces were installed oversized over the top of the knifeless tape. The knifeless tape is applied like pin striping where you want a color line. Then after the oversized vinyl is applied you pull the fine line through the film cutting it in the shape you outlined. Many times two applications of this tape were used, once for the bottom or rear layer and again to make the small overlap seam of the next piece. But with flat applications like the wing Invasion Stripes, I cut out the film with a long straight edge and razor to the final width. Then careful application of these large stripes I lined up the seams and saved both film and tape for the long straight color seams. I did use the tape on the leading wing and trailing aileron/flap edges. After all colors were down I pulled the long tape line to get a straight cut on these edges.
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I applied the 3M primer on all leading edges of the planes surface a couple minutes before application, then the knifeless tape over that. The primer turns the film adhesive to more of a contact glue instant stick. Also use the primer around openings like air ducts and tie-down screw holes, plus inside concave curved surfaces for better adhesive.
The film adhesive is pressure sensitive, goes on dry, and had micro air channels in the adhesive surface that helps prevent air bubbles. You can lay it on the prepped surface, being careful not to stick it to any 3M primer parts. I did a large percentage on the bottom of the plane, so a light finger push can be used to tack it down, line it up and still snap it back up to reposition. Work from the center out with the squeegee.
Heating the film allows it to stretch and curve. It takes some practice and re-learning with the stretch as opposed to model airplane product Monocoat, which shrinks when you heat it. (There were many times when I wished I could shrink the wrinkles out.) Heating also final sets the films adhesive and re-squeegee will force all air bubbles out. Also use heat and a cotton gloved finger to push the film over and down small bumps like rivets. I either used a sharp razorblade to trim outside edges or tucked it in and around to avoid exposure of the edge. Go back each applied piece with heat and squeegee to final set and smooth.
Two last steps are to clean the edges with alcohol, removing overlapped primer and glue. Then I used the seam sealer on leading edges.
 
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awesome!

now If I only had a hangar, i'd have one less excuse for not having any graphics on my ship!

I've done a few wraps, and still haven't nailed down the process....you are doing great!
just a reminder that the convention is to do the bottom first, then the top, and work back to front, so that your lap seams are less likely to 'catch' dirt and moisture, or just erode. ( at 200 mph!!! :) There is also clear sealant in a felt pen applicator, and, or transparent film if you want to tape the seams for better durability in problem areas.
 
I'm planning the same thing for my RV-12 this winter. Polished and wrap. I think it's a great idea (although I have no idea how to apply wrap).
 
Update

A few have asked, so I dragged this old thread out and reposted for an update.

I have flown 175 total hours, 125 with the vinyl and am still quite happy with the color wrap.
I have found that planning of forward facing seams and edges are very important. I have an edge color change (from vinyl underneath to polished aluminum on top) right at the flying surface?s leading edges. I flew several hours without any of the liquid seam sealer. The direct air impact to the raw edge tattered a small section or two. And on the wheel pants where two colors overlap on the leading edge the wind impact did the same. Once I applied the clear seam sealer the wear has stopped for over 100 hours now. I have not used the sealer on any other seams but the leading edges and have not had any peal or wear. There is even a fuselage invasion stripe that the installer (me) laid in the wrong order causing an overlap facing forward but has no lifting.
One case of hanger rash and another of scraped wheel pants on a destination hangar door threshold was so easily repaired in a few minutes.
I have been masking the artwork and wrap when polishing the aluminum with all compounds but the final Nuvite S. The S compound does not seem to touch the film but time will tell?I might continue to wrap the plane as I grow weary of polishing.
I feel the film gives my bare aluminum protection from moisture but will continue to watch for any signs of trapped moisture, loose rivets or other concerns with this product.
Overall, I could not have beat the time or cost for the final look with paint.

If anyone is in my neck of the woods, contact me and I can offer a look, demo or lend you a hand with yours.

See you at the fly-outs/ins...

HulaGirl with Spencer Air Girl, Arlington WA fly-in 2013
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The effects of Vinyl long term

Just a heads up.

I can't say this will always happen, but it happened to me. I have an aluminum Cobra glider trailer. When it was about 2 years old, I decided to put some vinyl graphics on the site. They were multi-colored, and had clear areas as well. I also put some on my DG-800S 18m glider. They looked awesome.

Fast forward 10 years. The glider is only out of the trailer when flying, or setup and take apart. So it was in the sun about 800 hours in the air, and maybe 500 on the ground. The graphics are on the vertical stabilizer, and look almost new. The trailer was in the weather and sun full time, and something very strange happened. The colors all faded, almost to nothing. The vinyl deteriorated into about .5 to 1" chips. The paint under the clear areas was destroyed by the vinyl adhesive, and is now almost bare aluminum. It needs to be completely sanded down to bare metal and repainted.

I'm just glad it is the trailer and not my glider that was destroyed by the vinyl.
 
Ya, but their life expectancy is how many races??? I assume he hopes his will last longer!

Mark

Our vinyls are rated 7-10 years outside 365 days a year. For everyday in a hangar... Add those days back onto that timeframe.

There are 100s of different levels/prices of vinyl. "Intermediate" or "economy" vinyls increase the shops profit margin while sacrificing the clients useful life regarding the vinyl.

AircraftWraps only uses the "premium" or "supreme" vinyl products our manufactures produce.

Regards,

Scott
 
3M?

Hi Scott,
You use 1080 3M? I did, then Avery for the chrome.

I applied over bare aluminum, (some primer over some of the fiberglass). So I'm not too worried about the glider trailer scenario.

I replaced an inspection plate yesterday morning before work, two colors applied, "dried" and plate installed in a few minutes. Kinda nice for changes...

See you some time soon!
Cheers!
 
Hi Scott,
You use 1080 3M? I did, then Avery for the chrome.

I applied over bare aluminum, (some primer over some of the fiberglass). So I'm not too worried about the glider trailer scenario.

I replaced an inspection plate yesterday morning before work, two colors applied, "dried" and plate installed in a few minutes. Kinda nice for changes...

See you some time soon!
Cheers!

Great looking Plane! Thanks for being a great example of the vinyl benefits. Excellent job on handling the tips. Have you had any lifting at your seam? AircraftWraps does a seamless install in that area. Our installers have the ability to conform to even that extreme curve.


We have and do use 3M 1080 during some projects. The driving forces is sometimes color dependent.

Recently there has been a great competition amongst the different Vinyl manufactures. Their products had a huge improved just a few years ago and now customers are seeing the true examples of "paint replacement" or complete "restyling" of their vehicles.

It's my belief that the manufactures recognize a growing market and have poured large amounts into new vinyl technologies. The vinyl coming to market now and in the near future exceed the amazing quality of present.
 
Thanks Scott,
Seam placement on the tips has not been an issue. Right or wrong, I chose to place the seam there, but the HS bottom is fully wrapped in one piece including the bottom of the tips.
I had some lifting on the more complex curved wheel pants. Seam sealer has stopped the lifting. One day I may peel it off and redo them, changing the color line placement away from the leading edge. And that is the beauty of the process, and get back in the air same day.
Cheers!
 
Chrome vinyl

I saw that you use some Chrome vinyl on the canopy and Wheel pants. Did you plan someday to usi it on the fuselage or wing instead of polish the aluminium ? I want to make a very similar job than yours, (http://www.mykitlog.com/users/displ...n&project=1913&category=9342&log=181007&row=1 ) and my idea was to use chrome vinyl on the bottom of wing and fuselage where it's difficult to polish... Did you think it's possible to that and have a great looking job ?
 
Yes...

Hi Martin,
Very nice looking scheme and project. You must be getting excited!

I have thought about more film. I don't love polishing. And the chrome film, (Avery Conform) is brighter no matter how much I polish the aluminum. But The chrome is the most difficult to work around compound curves. Though I did do all my transition fairings with it, and 90% happy with my results there. Outside curves are easier than inside curves. I am no pro at this, someone else might be better, have more patience than I.
The P-51 scheme I somewhat copied has full blue wings on top, and I might continue the wrap there instead of polishing. The shiny wing tops give us the feeling of a tanning bed in the canopy. My -8 is filmed about 90% on the bottom. I knew I did not want to polish there. Two small sections on the fuselage are polished, but more often hazed over with exhaust smoke...

Logistics might never get us together, but if anyone wants some hands on help or demo, am very close to the Mother Ship... Trips this year will only take me through CA, NV, WA, ID, MT and OR of course.
Cheers!
 
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Q&A

I receive a question or two that might be worth sharing...so here’s a snippet of two PMs.

BTW, as of this post 4.5 years and 400 hours on the vinyl, still looking good.

Quote:

Q: As I finalize the design of my wrap project I found this older thread and I have a few questions if you have time.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=98932

Q: It looks like you started to just add a curved strip on the horizontal and elevators. Did you not like the striping or was there any other issues?

A: Not sure what you are seeing but...Stripes are easy with the knife-less tape application each side then overlay an oversized piece of film. The tape makes a fairly clean cut and is easy to reposition as needed for a good line. Buy plenty.

Q: The elevators, flaps and ailerons appear to be completely wrapped. Did you remove them for the wrapping process or was it easy to cover the leading edge?

A: My scheme was polished a lot on top. But I did not remove control surfaces. Just pushed them up or down to reach leading edges.

Q: If you had to do it again, is there a lesson learned on the application process?

A: Plan seams carefully. Use (waste) larger pieces to eliminate seams if possible.
No seams on leading edges. Do bottom of wings, etc first with knife-less edge cut a couple inches below leading edge. Then do top wrapped down to overlap bottom about 3/8”.
Don’t expect compound curves to be seamlessly.
Buy extra film, then buy some more.

Q: Did you wrap your cowling?
I have an unpainted, shiny -8 , but I painted my fiberglass in a gloss grey that has turned out "too grey", instead of blending in with the aluminum as intended.
A friend at my airport has reported that the vinyl on his cowling bubbles from the engine heat, and has concluded that wrapping the cowling is a mistake.
Your thoughts/experience?
PS Would like to know your source for aluminum wrap I saw on your pants, please.
Thanks,

A: No, some how I knew better than to try and wrap the cowling or spinner. Friends at an auto shop filled and match painted for me.
I too don’t care for trying to match paint to polished aluminum.
Here’s the chrome vinyl and source. But chrome is the least flexible on compound curves compared to other colors. Buy extra and expect a few tear offs and redos. I used 3m 1080 on other colors, but 3m chrome is not as good as Avery.
https://www.metrorestyling.com/Avery...f100-843-s.htm


Cheers!
 
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Thanks for reviving this thread! How easy was it to wrap the wheel pants? It looks like they'd be almost as difficult as the spinner. Will the vinyl shrink to fit something like the wheel pant?

Thanks!
 
Like monokote, not.

Thanks for reviving this thread! How easy was it to wrap the wheel pants? It looks like they'd be almost as difficult as the spinner. Will the vinyl shrink to fit something like the wheel pant?

Thanks!

The wheel pants where somewhat challenging for my novice skills. But outside curves are easier. Empennage and gear fairings with concave curves were the most difficult.
This film stretches with heat, RC model film like MonoKote shrinks with heat. Having done both, there are times I wish I could shrink the vinyl film. It would be interesting to do a wheel pant with MonoKote
Modeling RC can help with color schemes, but even more fun is practicing aerobatics while your feet are safe on the ground.
Now that my -8 is flying this little 'Girl is hanging in the hangar.
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The wheel pants where somewhat challenging for my novice skills. But outside curves are easier. Empennage and gear fairings with concave curves were the most difficult.
This film stretches with heat, RC model film like MonoKote shrinks with heat. Having done both, there are times I wish I could shrink the vinyl film. It would be interesting to do a wheel pant with MonoKote
Modeling RC can help with color schemes, but even more fun is practicing aerobatics while your feet are safe on the ground.
Now that my -8 is flying this little 'Girl is hanging in the hangar.
rli0yv.jpg

OOPS! How long can you sustain negative G? :rolleyes:
 
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