The rudder was interesting. After I started building it up to do the initial metal work I started looking at the lower spar/rudder horn area. I knew this was going to interesting to build up so I spent quite a bit of time searching the forum, asking questions and reading other build logs. Got some great tips from VAF folks and found lots of good ideas.
One of the first things I found out the hard way was to not blindly follow the directions. I trimmed my R-710 the way the plans showed then installed it. Out of curiosity I took a sharpie and drew the hole locations on it through the skin. That old MED monster had struck again, not even close. Came home and found out through searching that I was not the only one to make this mistake. I opted for the $10 dollar lesson learned and ordered a new one. When the new one arrived I slowly started taking it down until it just fit. This is the point where it just fits. The drawn line is the MED from the edge to the center of the rivet holes. The dots are where the holes will be when drilled using the skin as a guide. The short perpendicular lines are the MED from the skin rivet hole locations to the ends or the hole in the middle.
Once everything was mocked up, all the metal work was done, everything prepped and primed it was time for assembly. I had used this trick for placing rivets in hard to reach places before on other projects and saw it mentioned in another builder's blog. It works well for installing these rivets with the orientation of the factory head on the thinner material. I used the pneumatic squeezer with a longeron yoke and a 1/2" set to get the rivets in this area.
Once I had the stiffeners back riveted to the skin and the skeleton done it was time to bend the trailing edge. I took an 8' 2X6, sawed it in half and planed one side of the 2" surface flat and square.
I had read the opinions regarding using a dowel during the bending process and decided to try it. I tried to put the dowel in the bend but I found that it was most likely going to cause damage to the ends of the stiffeners when I started squeezing (or at least it looked like it would) so I ditched that idea. I ended up using the the dowel though to set the trailing edge straight and square in my brake. The other advantage is that it gave me a repeatable installation position so I wasn't worried about taking the skin out to check.
Lay the dowel against the hinge, put the bend against the dowel and hold the skin down then remove the dowel. Viola, your skin is in the same place every time with the added bonus of not being able to crush the bend flat.
On the first squeeze I ended up with the skin holding this sort of shape with regard to the spar.
When the assembly was cleco'ed together the trailing edge was shaped like this. Not bad but I knew I had room to improve it.
I squeezed the skin a little more and got very nice results on one side but the other still showed a slight bend towards the edge. I realized that the straight side had always been on the top while the curved side had always been on the bottom in the brake so I turned the skin over and kissed it again. Worked like a charm. Side one.
To compare, this is how the skin lay with no clecos in the top after the final squeezing.