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  #31  
Old 03-28-2018, 09:07 AM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 403
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My need for rudder adjustment seems to change with different flight configurations, wind direction, but the Aerosport rudder trim makes a capable adjustment for each situation,. I suppose that is the reason yaw trim would be nice for an automatic adjustment.
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  #32  
Old 05-04-2018, 09:18 AM
ctennis ctennis is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 102
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Anyone having luck with obtaining the 115-01854-11 $180 subkit referenced in the drawings? It's not available anymore from what I can tell, with Garmin pushing you to buy the ~$750 kit instead.
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  #33  
Old 05-04-2018, 10:43 AM
ctennis ctennis is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 102
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Actually stein was able to source one. I'm wary though, in talking to another avionics shop he made it sound like garmin is pulling the plug on selling it separately outside of buying the whole $750 kit from them.
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  #34  
Old 05-04-2018, 11:55 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 1,575
Default Hmm

Looks like garmin is doing what lycoming did when they stopped selling the experimental engine kits...

Why get a piece of the overpriced pie when you can have it all...
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  #35  
Old 05-07-2018, 06:45 AM
ctennis ctennis is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 102
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Just wanted to highlight how I went about this. I have a new -10 kit and wanted to get this yaw damper mount installed during the tailcone process instead of doing a retrofit later.

As others have noted here, the "14 G3X YAW SERVO INSTALL KIT" installs just fine in the 10, and is substantially cheaper than the garmin equivalent. You will also need the garmin 115-01854-11 kit, which as of this writing SteinAir still has as a purchaseable part.

The main issue with installation of Van's bracket vs Garmin is the alignment of holes on the bulkhead. It's still an easily solved issue, however, one thing I didn't like is that all of the pieces of the battery box/elevator bellcrank/etc are removable with screws, but the yaw servo installation bracket is done with rivets meaning it will be permanently sticking up in the way when you try to enter the tailcone in the future. I decided now was the opportunity to try and also make it so you can remove the mount in the future should it be necessary.

The bracket looks like this:



The way it is intended to be installed is that the two smaller holes get riveted to the bulkhead, and the center hole is large enough to slip over the head of the existing rivet already in the bulkhead. Instead of that, I riveted a doubler plate to each of the feet using the existing rivet holes with the flush head on the fwd side that lays up against the bulkhead. When mounted it looked like this:



Now with this in place, drilling through the center hole in the bulkhead through the existing hole in the bracket and making a new hole in the doubler, we now have a place where a screw can go. This means you now install a nutplate on the bulkhead with the flush head on the rear side where the bracket sits.





Now when you go to install the bracket, it's completely installed with screws and can be removed later if needed.
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  #36  
Old 05-07-2018, 06:53 AM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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I installed similar kit in my RV-14A. I replaced the rivets on the bulkhead with screws to make it removable (discussed with Van's and they were OK with it).
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  #37  
Old 05-07-2018, 08:38 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,347
Default If I may re-pose a question

not replied to in December when I first asked:

Has anyone reverse-engineered or home-brewed a tiller arm/bow for the Dynon yaw servo? Seems very pricey for what it is, and easy to fab from a bit of aluminum plate and an old hacksaw blade.

All we'd need are a few major dimensions for hole spacing; the rest is eyeball-engineering with an eye towards keeping the cables from possibly fouling with anything.

Can someone post up a pic of their tiller bow alongside a ruler?
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  #38  
Old 05-07-2018, 12:30 PM
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BrianDC BrianDC is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctennis View Post

Now with this in place, drilling through the center hole in the bulkhead through the existing hole in the bracket and making a new hole in the doubler, we now have a place where a screw can go. This means you now install a nutplate on the bulkhead with the flush head on the rear side where the bracket sits.

...

Now when you go to install the bracket, it's completely installed with screws and can be removed later if needed.
Thanks for the tip that Stein has the servo mounting kit. Went ahead and ordered it while it's still available.
Also wondering if just a single nutplate per side is sufficient to hold it on. Anyone else do something similar and how did it work out? Think it's a good idea, but personally think I would rather have two nutplates per side, just need to get the parts in my hands to work out the details.
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  #39  
Old 05-07-2018, 02:30 PM
ctennis ctennis is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 102
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Here's the dimensions of the Garmin unit



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  #40  
Old 05-07-2018, 04:33 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 1,575
Default Thickness?

What is the thickness and material of the arm?
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RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
EFII System 32 - Done
290 HP Barrett Hung
ShowPlanes Cowl with Skybolts Fitted - Beautiful
Wiring...

Dues Paid 2018,...Thanks DR+
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