What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Best Sikaflex application

findane

Active Member
For quite some time I've been following several threads on installing a canopy with Sikaflex. I've got my canopy fit, taped and roughed up. I'm using spacers. Which is the best method; 1) apply the adhesive to the canopy and drop the frame in and clamp; 2) apply the Sikaflex to the frame, drop it in the canopy and clamp; or 3) clamp it all together and squeeze Sikaflex in the voids? I know I have to thoroughly clean all surfaces and apply 209 primer but what method works best or is there another method other than above?
 
3. I can't imagine anyone doing it differently without having a huge mess on their hands.
Tom
RV-7 slider
 
Option 3

Option 3 worked perfect for me.
Put spacers in, place canopy on frame, put electric tape on to get clean edges, ?spot-weld? with sika flex on numerous places, let it cure, remove spacers, fill voids, remove tape, let cure.

Good luck!!
 
3 !!!

Oh, 3 for sure. After you finish, you will understand that the two other methods are suicide missions.

The stuff is so tenacious, that any voids won't be an issue at all.
 
I would do two passes. Get the main bead down, put the canopy on and get it in place and clamped, then walk away. Come back within 24 hours, unclamp it, pull out the spacers then round two is to fill the spaces and get a nice fillet in place. Pull the tape before the Sikaflex skins up too much and let it sit to cure.
 
I agree with Bruce Hill. I applied the Sika on the frame, then carefully dropped the canopy in place. A partner is a must. You apply less Sika rather than more, and come along later and apply a second application to fill in all the voids. I used electrical tape as masking tape, and I didn't have a mess at all.

Much more can be seen on my website, along with lots of pictures and discussion, starting here:

SikaFlex Application for the Canopy
 
I?ve got to break from the last 2 posts. There is a lot of ?adjusting? to get the canopy where it belongs. Besides there isn?t any way to predict the location of the electrical tape for a clean edge.

Spacers, clamp, adjust, more or less spacers, more clamps, step back and ponder where it?s at, adjust, have an adult beverage, quit for the day. Come back the next day and finish clamping. THEN tape off the cut line.

Follow Sika finishing procedures as described in other threads.

You only get 1 chance to get it right.
 
I used method 3 for the canopy frame after having riveted it in place. Before doing this I stress relieved the clamped assembly by heating in my home made oven.. 190 F for four hour then slow 2 1/2 hour cool down. The rolll bar will be spot glue then remove spacers and finish. I used activator then 207 primer then sikaflex.
I used my local Speedy Glass guy to apply all this stuff. Cost me 20 bucks and a bottle of wine fore a nice neat job!

Jack
 
I agree with Blane. I used option 3, clamped it all up, lots of adjusting, custom clamp building, pondered, put a first bead of Sika, pulled the spacers, and then finished with a nice bead. You can check my website link below under the canopy section. Lots of pictures.
 
Spacers

A spacer method I found to work really well was to use tiny (about 3/16" square) blocks of basswood or hard balsa stuck to the canopy frame with cyanoacrylate. These are easily sanded down to adjust the height and are left in place when gluing on the canopy. When you are happy with the alignment, take off the canopy, mask up and paint on the primer right over the spacers. Use method #3 to tack the canopy in place, then do the filleting later as a separate step. Areas where the fillets are not right can masked off again, sanded with 80 grit, primed and recoated with Sikaflex.

Stewart Willoughby, 6. Painting is next.
 
Never used spacers - gun it onto the frame have lineup marks, practise a couple of times without the Sika on then with your Glamorous Assistant - drop it on, clamp it up and leave it.

Then re tape, pipe in the fillets, remove tape and walk away.

7 and 8 both done really well indeed.

Spacers are not needed - their history comes from generic advice from Sikaflex manuals.

Does Safelite use spacers on your windshield....?

Nope.
 
I followed Bruce Hill?s and Bruce Swayze?s blogs and methods and it worked very well for me. I did use a village of volunteer assistants that allowed me to focus on directing (canopy placement) and applying the Sikaflex.
 
There are other threads on the subject but one of the reasons for spacers was to create an interface that will allow for differential expansion and contraction of steel frame and acrylic.
 
Does Safelite use spacers on your windshield....?

Never used spacers - gun it onto the frame have lineup marks, practise a couple of times without the Sika on then with your Glamorous Assistant - drop it on, clamp it up and leave it.

Then re tape, pipe in the fillets, remove tape and walk away.

7 and 8 both done really well indeed.

Spacers are not needed - their history comes from generic advice from Sikaflex manuals.

Does Safelite use spacers on your windshield....?

Nope.

No, but then car windshield glass has a significantly lower expansion rate than plexiglass.

Finn
 
I used method 3 on my canopy and windshield. I made my spacers out of hard rubber using a leather punch. Most were 3/16 diameter ~1/8" think. I glued them to the frame and marked the location so I would only clamp over the spacers. My spacers stayed in place. Worked out great, no issues.
 
Sikaflex and spacer voids

Thank you to all that responded. I followed application #3 and everything worked well. What is best method for reapplying Sika to the spacer voids and the fillets should all surfaces be roughed up again, apply the cleaner (activator) then reapply the primer and sikaflex?
 
IIRC, I pulled the shims and filled the voids just a day or so later. Summer in California so temps helped.
 
Hi Peter. I didn't remove my shims as they were just small black high density rubber spacers and I left them in place. I ran a top fillet after I removed the clamps a few days later. You don't need to add additional primer, as Sika will stick directly cured Sika. I can't remember if I roughed the surface up first, but I don't think so. It should have the specifics on the data sheet.
Tom.
 
After 8 hours you need to re apply the cleaner / activator but not the primer. Allow 3 minutes flash time after activator before sikaflex for best results.
 
I agree with Bruce Hill. I applied the Sika on the frame, then carefully dropped the canopy in place. A partner is a must. You apply less Sika rather than more, and come along later and apply a second application to fill in all the voids. I used electrical tape as masking tape, and I didn't have a mess at all.

Much more can be seen on my website, along with lots of pictures and discussion, starting here:

SikaFlex Application for the Canopy

This is the way I did it but I applied more than Bruce on the frame and tongue depressed out the excess to make a nice fillet. Takes time to get the canopy aligned properly but it was doable and worked fine. I let it cure and pulled spacers and filled the gaps, looks good. Not perfect but decent.

41850823300_d99bf2b2b4_b.jpg


You can see where the spacer was in the upper right center. Also added a light clamp AFTER, mistake...
 
Sika

Where have others found to be the best place to purchase the Sika products? I live in Colorado. I am following Bruce's instructions for a RV14. Thanks, Larry
 
Best Sikaflex Application

Thank you to all for the great advise. Canopy is Sikaflexed and it fits great. All the measuring adjusting and fitting paid off. It was very helpful to dry fit the entire canopy and frame with clamps, spacers and straps. I found out where all the "landmines" were before the Sikaflex was applied. Two months of struggling with fitting the frame and tracks was worth it

Now for the windscreen! I plan to follow the same process with the windscreen installation. Any additional suggestions from those who have gone before is greatly appreciated.
 
Back
Top