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  #1  
Old 12-04-2011, 07:55 AM
mlwynn mlwynn is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 402
Default Riveting the Forward Skin in the Gear Towers

Hi all,

After about a year of wiring and potschkying, I started riveting on the front fuselage skin. Definitely some interesting reaches the the bucking. We got to the gear towers and stood their with a collective head scratch. With all the wires and controls and fuel vent tubing, I am not quite sure how we are going to get these rivets bucked. Ditto some of the ones right next the to rear baggage bulkhead.

Has anyone else had this issue? Got any tricks? Did anyone eventually surrender and end up using cherrymax blind rivets?

Scratching head

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2011, 08:40 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Originally Posted by mlwynn View Post
Has anyone else had this issue? Got any tricks? Did anyone eventually surrender and end up using cherrymax blind rivets?

Do you mean that row that joins the top skin to the longeron, side skin, and top of the towers? Uh.....I can tell you that once it's painted, only an EXPERT (with a magnifying glass) will tell that you used Cherry's instead of driven rivets.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2011, 01:00 PM
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panhandler1956 panhandler1956 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
Do you mean that row that joins the top skin to the longeron, side skin, and top of the towers? Uh.....I can tell you that once it's painted, only an EXPERT (with a magnifying glass) will tell that you used Cherry's instead of driven rivets.
Ditto - structural blind rivets in mine too!
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2011, 02:35 PM
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DeltaTango DeltaTango is offline
 
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Location: Friendswood, TX
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Default tungsten bucking bar

I used a thin tungsten bucking bar. I believe I used my 3/4"x1-1/2"x2" bar. Its still a tight fit but doable. You have to hold the bar at a slight angle and roll the bar level with the surface as the rivet is driven. Sounds awkward but pretty easy to do.
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:40 PM
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Wicked Stick Wicked Stick is offline
 
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Originally Posted by DeltaTango View Post
I used a thin tungsten bucking bar. I believe I used my 3/4"x1-1/2"x2" bar. Its still a tight fit but doable. You have to hold the bar at a slight angle and roll the bar level with the surface as the rivet is driven. Sounds awkward but pretty easy to do.
I was able to buck them using this same combination. Almost every hole with solid rivets but one.
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Old 12-04-2011, 10:45 PM
SHIPCHIEF SHIPCHIEF is offline
 
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It was cheaper for me to use Cherrys than buy a special bucking bar.
They went in perfect and I moved on to the next project.
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  #7  
Old 12-04-2011, 11:53 PM
mlwynn mlwynn is offline
 
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Default What size rivets

What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural. Cherry makes a 3/32 countersunk but the cherry measuring device only fits into 1/8th holes so I am a little unsure what size/length/type would be most appropriate.

Thanks,

Michael Wynn
RV 8 Finishing
San Ramon, CA

Last edited by mlwynn : 12-05-2011 at 12:35 AM. Reason: Message less that clear
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2011, 01:01 AM
CMW CMW is offline
 
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Originally Posted by mlwynn View Post
What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural. Cherry makes a 3/32 countersunk but the cherry measuring device only fits into 1/8th holes so I am a little unsure what size/length/type would be most appropriate.
CR3214-4-4, if you need some right away, I have a bunch. PM me or email me at chriswelsh@sbcglobal.net.

-Chris
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2011, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwynn View Post
What size and type rivets did you use? These need to be structural....
Michael,

Reworking #40 holes to accept larger diameter 1/8" flush Cherry rivets is quite easy. Here are two older posts that describe in words and pictures the ease and utility of using 1/8" structural blind Cherry rivets to replace AD3 solid rivets in difficult or impossible to reach areas:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...3&postcount=12

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...22&postcount=3
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2011, 06:00 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Doesn't cure your current problem, but for the benefit of those that follow......rivet the skin on before you add the plumbing and wires.

Honestly, I have no idea why folks don't finish structure before rigging, other than it's what they heard they should do. I've done two "skin on" and it's not hard. The most recent was completely painted inside and out.
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