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  #1  
Old 03-29-2018, 08:57 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Default QB Wings, Fuel Sender Fitment

Any tips on fitting the fuel senders on the QB wings? I thought it would be as easy as bending the rods appropriately and plugging them in but you have to tweak to fit, problem is, can't see anything really to tweak and my bore-scope won't fit through the holes.
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:00 AM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
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I know I had to tweak a lot on my SB tanks and they were still open, can't imagine doing on QB tanks that are all sealed up..
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2018, 09:02 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Measure the height of the tank at the location where the float will contact top and bottom, and the vertical relationship of the sender flange to those points.
Transfer the measurements to a piece of cardboard (I.E. make a scale sized simulation of the cross section of the tank).
Position the sender on the edge of the cardboard and swing the arm through its range.
Adjust as needed.
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Last edited by Mike S : 03-29-2018 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:11 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Alternatively, measure the ohm reading from the sender for fully empty and also the full position. Use the measurement that has given in the plans for bending and install it with a string attached to the arm that you can lift it up thru one of the screw holes, install it with the string attached. When it is at fully empty position read the ohm to verify, then pull it up with the string to read again and most importantly to check to see if there is any interference.

You most like will end up dealing to tweak it for the interference than reading. The measurement in the plan is pretty darn close.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:01 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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I used an endoscopic camera from Amazon: https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/2018...ing-right.html
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2018, 01:29 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Well, got it done.

One of them is still tapping the skin if I pull on my testing string, it has about a 1/32nd clearance at rest.

Is that 1/16th top and bottom clearance critical? I'm not really seeing how to get the gap on one side without affecting the gap on the other .. perhaps a small third bend?

But other than that, I get 30-248 on the meter on the R tank and 30-245 on the L tank on the meter. Not sure how critical that 3 ohms is .. assuming there is an EFIS calibration in my future

Thoughts?
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Last edited by bkervaski : 03-29-2018 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 03-29-2018, 02:42 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Third bend seems to do the trick! 1/16 top and bottom, full range on the meter!
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  #8  
Old 03-30-2018, 09:25 PM
Jake14 Jake14 is offline
 
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Location: Seattle
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Note that the arc showing the float travel on p 18-07 is in error. The two arcs I added are centered on the pivot point, so the float actually comes very close to touching the rib. In my case it did hit the rib and caused some rework. On slow build wings you'd probably catch it before closing up

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Old 03-30-2018, 10:29 PM
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N804RV N804RV is offline
 
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I measured resistance "full" and resistance "empty". Made the bends per the plans and installed them with a couple of screws snugged up.

Then, I measured the resistance again with tank right side up - "empty", and upside down, "full".

Worked like a charm.

Just to make sure the float didn't hang up, I used double sided tape and my iPhone on video record. Used a flashlight to provide some light, and flopped the tank back and forth. No problem.

This was on my RV-8. YMMV.
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Last edited by N804RV : 03-30-2018 at 10:32 PM.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2018, 03:40 AM
salto salto is offline
 
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Location: Wee Waa Australia
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Could it be that the thickness of the proseal after removing the supplied gasket is a critical measurement. I made sure I had a flange seal thickness that was reasonably generous. Didn't have issues with rib interference.
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