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  #11  
Old 03-27-2018, 06:19 AM
Reflex Reflex is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 92
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Sincerest thanks for your replies. It's exactly what I was looking for. Last night I finally got the piece put in place. I removed a ton of clecos and did it pretty much the way didja described. In addition, I used a 1" x 2" piece of 1/64 ply as a "shoehorn" to get it the front portion started.

Unfortunately when I got it all put together, I found that my tail spring (U-00018) is not square. It's close, but not square. It's not far off, but definitely not square. I'll be taking pics and contacting the Mother Ship today about a replacement.

Now for a laugh, if you thought that piece/assembly was tough to put in....you ought to try and remove it!! Wow!

Again, thanks for all the help!

Fred
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  #12  
Old 03-27-2018, 07:54 AM
mountainride mountainride is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Golden, Colorado
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Its good to know that there are so many of us on the same step within a week of each other! I am just about done the tail except for leading edges and the tailcone.

I broke the bottom rounded edge of the side skin before dimpling but it will need more massage. Where the side skin meets The F-01479 aft skin I didn't get much break on at all and there is a fairly sizeable gap clecoed together. I really want to finish off these joints properly before I rivet. I tested running my cleaveland edge break tool over dimple, and while a pain in the ***, kind of works. I was also thinking of taking the skin off, letting it hang a few mm off my bench edge and running a hard roller over it. What are other people using as massage techniques to get those edge joints perfect for final fit after dimpling?



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  #13  
Old 03-27-2018, 08:49 AM
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Erimo Erimo is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Marcoussis, France
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex View Post
After spending two hours last night trying to get this assembly into place, I thought I'd better get some help before bending something. I've checked multiple builder's web sites and seems nobody is having much of an issue with it. Trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. F-01479 goes between the F-01478 (skin) and the F-01411 bulkhead. I'm not having much trouble there, it's getting the skin to fit aft of this point. By the way, the plans are vague, I'm assuming that the F-01479 skin goes BETWEEN the stringers and the fuse skin.

How'd you do it?

I had the same issue too. More you cleco, massage un-cleco and re-re-redo more the skin will fit with the aft bottom !
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  #14  
Old 03-27-2018, 01:26 PM
Chris Cooper Chris Cooper is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Aberdeen, UK
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Make sure you donít have a rivet in the last hole of the stiffener or the skin will never go far enough forward. Ask me how I know...

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  #15  
Old 03-28-2018, 11:39 AM
mountainride mountainride is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Golden, Colorado
Posts: 16
Default after edge work

I was able to get it near perfect after running the Cleveland edge tool between the dimples. I then followed with my with my handseamer. I would put the edge at the center of the holes to line up my bend, preload a little bit and then work the area above with my thumbs to make the bend and crease. This actually seems a decent enough way to get a nice edge break.

Very happy with the results:

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  #16  
Old 03-30-2018, 08:44 AM
didja didja is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Goodyear, Az
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That's exactly what I had to use. The hand seemer tool (the vice grips with the metal plates if that's what its called!) and bend the edges rather than try the roller. I put a relatively significant break on the edge and when riveted in place, it was nearly seamless.

This is a fun section to work on, and as was mentioned in a comment above, nice to see several folks working on the same section!
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