VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 04-15-2018, 08:14 AM
kmbusse kmbusse is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 6
Default Tail Fairings

Completely new to fiberglass and not quite clear on closing the openings of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. You attach the elevators and rudder, mount the fairings and trim to get an 1/8 in gap. I get that, I get laying up 2 pieces for the cover. Then it says to trace the fairing on the cover, trim, tape in place and then finish attaching it to the fairing with more fiberglass. Here's where I'm not clear. Does the cover go over the fairing opening and then mounted in with more fiberglass, or does it get sanded down to fit inside the fairing to sit flush with the edge of the fairing and then mounted in? Maybe I'm reading it wrong but it looks like it is taped over the fairing, but doesn't that then get rid of the gap and bind with the rudder or elevator?
Any advice for the fabrication and fiberglass of these parts are also welcome, as this is our first kick at the cat.

Thanks,

Kerry
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-15-2018, 09:56 AM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmbusse View Post
Does the cover go over the fairing opening and then mounted in with more fiberglass, or does it get sanded down to fit inside the fairing to sit flush with the edge of the fairing and then mounted in?
I suppose both will work, but the first way is much easier: spot-weld an oversized piece, fillet the inside with flox, cut/sand away excess. Exactly as described in the manual worked well for me.

2-ply glass is quite thin if you lay it up between two pieces of plastic sheeting and squeeze out excess resin. Let it cure between plastic sheets: it results in stronger epoxy and stinks less. Sheeting will come off with no effort once cured.

If you are new to fiberglass here are some tips I wish someone told me before my first attempts:
- it cuts with tin snips, gelcoat no problem;
- diamond dremel wheels shape it quickly and won't go dull;
- sand/grind wet to control dust (mister not bucket if electric tools!)

Finally, be prepared for the esthetics of the fairings to be inferior to the rest of the kit. It would take insane hours and lots of micro to make Van's fiberglass blend in nicely with metal--and each other for that matter, see Tom Martin's tip (sadly his photos seem to have disappeared).
__________________
Dan V
'91 Zodiac flying since 2013
RV-14A in progress
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-15-2018, 10:12 AM
kmbusse kmbusse is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 6
Default

Thanks. Thatís how I was reading it but thought 1/8 in wouldnít be enough gap once the piece was on top. Iíll go with how it shows. I really appreciate the tips.
Kerry
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:04 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.