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  #11  
Old 03-22-2018, 09:58 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Bob Martin View Post
...

After doing mine, I would say, 2.25 works well, but up to 3" would also. Just consider W&B a little here. As said before, you install the prop and spinner and make the cowling fit to it. Shorter extension, trim more off cowl, longer extension and trim less. You will also be extending the engine plenum intakes to the back of the inlet rings so you will make that fit as well.
Both my installs were to Hartzell paddel prop, same fit as BA......

...
Thank you Bob. I was wondering if the fit of their air filter kit might have something to do with the extra .25 inch on the extension? As I said earlier I will verify with James before buying.

I too thought of the CG implication. That’s about 60lb moving forward 2.5 inches, plus the weight of the extension and second set of bolts. I’ll scout around and find someone’s stock W&B numbers and calculate what effect that weight at the additional arm will have.
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Last edited by longranger : 03-22-2018 at 10:04 AM.
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2018, 10:39 AM
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maniago maniago is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Bob Martin View Post
Mani.......my cousin!
We may both be right.
Pretty sure there is a "model" of hub that would take up the 2.5"or so difference and that might be what Will James was shooting for with the extended version cowl.
But it also coinsides with the difference on cowl length.
I have always tried to stay away from odd or non standard parts, for ease of future upgrades that come way sooner than I expect.
One could swap a standard paddel prop for a Blended prop without changing anything.
Right you are Virginia Bob.

In the M2 case, we've only ever had one length of cowl offered to us - the extended version... The plethora of BP sales prob pushed James to add that length for you guys. Or maybe it all happened at the same time dunno. I cant rem when James started offering for us, but I believe it was in the 2000s.
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MustangII (FoldingWing) "FirewallFwd&sundries": IO360B1E,RSA,C2YR-BF/F7666-2,Superior sump,James; 2xHXr,MiniX,EIS,480,327,240,SL30,Navworx; SteamAlt,AS,VSI
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2018, 11:26 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Originally Posted by longranger View Post
Thanks Carl, that makes sense. How consistent are (I)O-360 cases? Ie., could a red tagged case and crank be be used with a prop hub to fit the cowl? I didn’t get this far on my HRII project when I lived near Bakersfield, but I remember that there was a 540 case with a PVC “crankshaft” and a plywood “backplate” floating around among builders for fitting cowls. I’d rather put the engine purchase off as long I can, but if it makes a difference in fitting the cowl, I’ll go ahead and get it.
I would not attempt to fit a cowl without the engine and prop (or prop hub) mounted, period. Your engine, not a mock up and using they engine mounts you will fly with.

Just like avionics, at some point you cannot proceed without biting the bullet and writing a big check.

Carl
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2018, 11:54 AM
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maniago maniago is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
I would not attempt to fit a cowl without the engine and prop (or prop hub) mounted, period. Your engine, not a mock up and using they engine mounts you will fly with.

Just like avionics, at some point you cannot proceed without biting the bullet and writing a big check.

Carl
+1 what Carl said. Except exhaust. Cowl comes first, then exhaust. Thats not really an issue for you guys as mfgrs make known common configuration exhausts for your birds. The rest of us have to go custom, and then its an iterative game. But still: engine, prop (and backplate) in place first, then cowl to the bird.
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MustangII (FoldingWing) "FirewallFwd&sundries": IO360B1E,RSA,C2YR-BF/F7666-2,Superior sump,James; 2xHXr,MiniX,EIS,480,327,240,SL30,Navworx; SteamAlt,AS,VSI
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  #15  
Old 03-22-2018, 01:39 PM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
I would not attempt to fit a cowl without the engine and prop (or prop hub) mounted, period. Your engine, not a mock up and using they engine mounts you will fly with.

Just like avionics, at some point you cannot proceed without biting the bullet and writing a big check.o

Carl
Thank you Carl. Good point on fresh engine mounts. I don’t mind “writing the big check”, as I’ve been ready for that since I started the project, but I’m a very slow worker, and in the case of the engine I want to minimize the time it sits around unused.
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on order

Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album

1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982

'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2018, 01:52 PM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Originally Posted by maniago View Post
+1 what Carl said. Except exhaust. Cowl comes first, then exhaust. Thats not really an issue for you guys as mfgrs make known common configuration exhausts for your birds. The rest of us have to go custom, and then its an iterative game. But still: engine, prop (and backplate) in place first, then cowl to the bird.
Thank you Mani. I haven’t researched exhaust very extensively (yet), other than I’m fairly sure I’ll go with Vetterman, as they seem to have bolt-on solutions for the common configurations. I do see the logic of installing the “unmovable” things first, then routing everything else around them.
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Miles (VAF# 1238, Paid up as of 2018)
RV-7 TU 904KM (reserved)
Wings Fitted and Finish Kit on order

Construction Log
Picasa: Empennage Album, Wings Album, Fuselage Album

1955 Cessna 170B flying since 1982

'To get something you never had, you have to do something you never did.' -Unk.
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  #17  
Old 03-22-2018, 05:23 PM
BillL BillL is online now
 
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Default 2.25" vs 2.5" - maybe the bolts??

My literature said 2.25", but since I was extending the nose Sam (Sabre) said the bolts were much lower cost for the 2.5" so I got it.
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