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RV14 stick buttons

dbs

Member
Just about finished my RV14A empennage.

What is the optimal options for stick buttons?

After seeing the flightchops latest video where he had to use both hands on the stick to control the trim and flaps on go around I'm revising my thoughts from like everything to only radio and trim and maybe auto pilot.
 
I saw the video as well and did not understand that. I have an RV6 and during a go-around I have to put flaps up or use excessive rudder but there is no need for trimming during the process. There should be enough elevator authority to accomplish this without worrying about the trim. Don't understand it but it was a super nice and fun video to watch.
 
The Tosten grips supplied by Van?s have an intermittent flap switch, an autopilot disconnect button, a ?Chinese hat? trim switch, and a trigger comm switch. That works well for me.

I noticed the need for a lot of trim in a 14A in a touch-and-go; much more than in my Archer. You can overcome it, but it is very pronounced. Might be because of the wide chord of the composite prop on the plane I flew. YMMV
 
I have trim on the stick and the flap switch is on the panel just above the throttle. You need a lot of trim in the 14 when lowering the flaps.

I found it much easier to do it this way than when doing transition training in Van's 14A, which has the flap and trim switches on the stick. I was doing the two handed routine and didn't like it.

Very happy not having the flap switch on the stick on mine. I also have an autopilot disconnect button and push to talk trigger. Both are unobtrusive.
 
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I have trim on the stick and the flap switch is on the panel just above the throttle. You need a lot of trim in the 14 when lowering the flaps.

Interesting...which way do you need to trim the -14 when lowering the flaps? On the other 2-seat RV's I've flown (6,7,8 series) there's virtually no pitch change when lowering flaps. You do have to get on the nose down trim when you open the throttle to go around, but I always felt that had more to do with the rapid increase in speed (after being trimmed for approach speed) than the flap setting per se.

I plan to have the flap switch on the panel near the throttle in my -14 mainly because I want my passenger/copilot to be able to reach it, but don't want to have to worry about them inadvertently bumping a stick mounted switch. Sounds like the need for trim change with flaps is another good reason to have it on the panel.
 
All the RV models have a nose pitch down when flaps are lowered. Particularly full flaps with power added. The slotted flaps on the RV-14 large and very effective, so the pitch down is a bit stronger.



There is a lot more to this than the configuration of the switches on the stick.....

The bigger factor is what type of system the switch is controlling.

The RV-14A was a first prototype. Its systems are not at all optimized (but there is a plan to do that in the near future). It has a flaps switch that must be held for flap retraction.
The RV-14, with it's AFS quick panel system, has programmable flap functionality so that the flaps will fully retract with just a momentary activation. That allows you thumb to be dedicated to adjusting the pitch trim. A G3X system with a GAD27 is able to do the same.
So the more important factor is what system is controlling the flaps, not what the configuration of the switches is.
 
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If you are worried about a passenger inadvertently activating a switch on the stick just add a copilot stick deactivation toggle on the panel. I did this very easily by just interrupting the ground wire coming out of the stick though the switch. They still retain PPT. Many tandem builders do this since they cannot see their back seat pAssengers.

+1 I put a "copilot enable" switch on the panel. The copilot stick switches are disabled, except for the PTT, unless I specifically enable them. ;)
 
I did the same thing; have to toggle the copilot enable switch up to turn on the stick. Controls their com button too.

I ended up getting the Ray Allen grip with the hat for trim, flaps on the right top momentary up/down, CWS/AP Off on the top left, and com on the trigger finger. The Ray Allen is short enough that it doesn't interfere with the panel in any way.
 
So the more important factor is what system is controlling the flaps, not what the configuration of the switches is.

Scott's point is a good one. I have a GAD 27 so I knew I would not have to hold down the flap switch like I did while transition training. However, I still elected to use a panel mounted flap switch.
 
+1 I put a "copilot enable" switch on the panel. The copilot stick switches are disabled, except for the PTT, unless I specifically enable them. ;)
I'm planning a "stick enable" switch with three positions: Left, Both, Right. This can be done with a SP3T switch. I drew the wiring that it would require at some point but I don't know where I put that. You can also use a magneto switch to selectively ground your stick buttons.

I want the option of turning off the left seat stick in case I decide to fly from the right seat and have a passenger in the left. I decided I don't really need the option of turning off both sticks.
 
I consider this post by Ed Wischmeyer to be one of the best I've read on the subject of determining which functions earn their way onto the stick. Simpler is better in the long run. Also, in my construction blog there is an entry that captures my thoughts on stick buttons for my RV-14A. I used Ed's logic to assign functions to the various buttons.

When you're musing over stick buttons, don't forget that they do not exist in a vacuum. Make sure you look at the system as a whole. Where do you want to position the flap switch? TO/GA (if included)? Think about how you're going to operate the aircraft. What are your flows? How are your hands positioned during takeoff, climb, cruse and landing? What functions do you need to perform in each of those phases of flight?

If you go through this process, you'll end up with a simple layout that is less prone to operator error (e.g. unintentionally bumping the starter button).

Good luck. I look forward to seeing what you decide.
 
Pitch Sensitivity in cruise

There is another reason to mount the passenger's stick buttons on the panel. I learned a long time ago when flying with a friend in his 6A to Sun'n Fun that operation of the stick mounted PTT could cause a gain or loss of 20 or 30 feet in altitude.

At cruise the RV's are sensitive in pitch. If the passenger is doing the radio work while the pilot is flying, it just makes more sense to me to have the PTT (and any other switches) on the panel. Otherwise, let the right seater be PIC while he/she transmits. :)

YMMV
 
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