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Rudder pedals question

Tankerpilot75

Well Known Member
One of the first things I did when I purchased my RV7A from the original owner/builder almost four years ago was to move the rudder pedals to the forward most predrilled holes (the prior owner was around 5?7? and I?m 6?1?). That repositioning was relatively easy because I used existing holes. However it is still a little short legged for me. I?ve noticed that when I go full pedal extension there is still quite a bit of room between the pedals and the firewall.

I?m having my interior re-done by a very talented aircraft upholstery guy (for a very reasonable price) and figure now is a good time to move the pedals forward a little more. My target is around two inches more forward. Being 71, and more than a little stiff these days, I usually think long and hard before crawling under the panel for any reason. The aircraft was a quick build kit.

Since I?m already at the most forward pre-drilled holes, I will have to drill at least two additional holes forward of the existing hole options to accommodate this move.

Questions
1. Does anyone have any experience and/or recommendations for how far forward I should limit this move other than ensure the pedals still maintain a reasonable distance from the firewall and there?s room to push the brakes.

2. The rudder cables appear to have about another 1? of forward movement slack available but the brackets that attach the pedals to the cables are already at their second hole. If I need additional cable length does anyone know where I can get a longer set of cable brackets?
 
I drilled extra holes in mine (not yet flying) as far forward as I could and maintain rudder & brake action. I don't expect my short legs to need it, but it was easy to do while building. You'll definitely need a right angle drill for the stringers. Don't forget that any new hole will have to match up in distance to an existing hole where the rear bolt will fall. I used a bolt through the rear block into an existing hole for alignment, and a transfer punch to mark the forward hole. Also don't forget to drill the center brace, as well.

For cable length adjustment, it's a simple matter of cutting & drilling new longer links out of the proper thickness 4130.

edit: If you don't mind sitting more upright, you can also move the seat back to the rear, if you haven't already done that.

Charlie
 
Pedal location

The pedals can be located as far as possible without touching firewall, fuel line or parking brake. Keep in mind that should also include full rudder deflection in either direction. The links that attach the cable to the pedal is a builder fabricated part and would also need to be made longer. If you move the pedals only, you have changed the geometry only and not the distance. You might try changing the link first and see how far you can get without goofing up the geometry. The geometry is a personal preference as to brake angle.
 
The only thing I see worth mentioning is the minimum distance Van's put on their drawing below. 3 inches to the front of the block. As long as you are within this limit and watch the edge distance between bolt holes I'd say drill away.

answer by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Hole spacing

Check the blocks. On mine, the hole spacing on the Center block is different from the two outer blocks. Just a little "heads up".
 
The pedals can be located as far as possible without touching firewall, fuel line or parking brake. Keep in mind that should also include full rudder deflection in either direction. The links that attach the cable to the pedal is a builder fabricated part and would also need to be made longer. If you move the pedals only, you have changed the geometry only and not the distance. You might try changing the link first and see how far you can get without goofing up the geometry. The geometry is a personal preference as to brake angle.

FYI, the "link" Mark mentioned is a steel part, not aluminum.
 
Be careful with aft hole

It is obvious when you move all the plastic F-6116 blocks forward that the forward hole in the blocks (closest to the firewall) will not conflict with any existing holes in the relevant F-719 bracket. The danger is the rear (aft) hole in the F-6116 blocks might conflict with existing holes in the bracket. Unless you're careful you can end up with a "figure 8" hole or two holes with insufficient structural separation. Don't just go happily drilling that forward hole without checking where the aft hole lies in relation to existing F-719 bracket holes. Check first drill second. ;)
 
Thanks

As always, ask intelligent, experienced people a few questions and you get good answers. VAF is a great repository of information. Appreciate the help.
 
Combo

It is obvious when you move all the plastic F-6116 blocks forward that the forward hole in the blocks (closest to the firewall) will not conflict with any existing holes in the relevant F-719 bracket. The danger is the rear (aft) hole in the F-6116 blocks might conflict with existing holes in the bracket. Unless you're careful you can end up with a "figure 8" hole or two holes with insufficient structural separation. Don't just go happily drilling that forward hole without checking where the aft hole lies in relation to existing F-719 bracket holes. Check first drill second. ;)

If you combine the two responses above you?ll get the complete answer: the center block hole spacing is not the same as the end blocks so using one of the end blocks holes and drilling only one closer could cause a problem for the holes in the center block. So need to check all three blocks before drilling. On my initial build, the center position of the middle block required me to move the block to one side to avoid a figure 8 hole.
 
Consider installing the Anti-Splat "Almost -14" mod to help fit taller passengers/pilots. It allowed me to add another piano hinge about 1.5" further aft (limited by lap belt attach points) AND allows the top of the seat back to move about 4" further aft.

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Need to reconsider

Jereme,

Thanks for pointing out the 3 inch minimum requirement. Unfortunately when I took a tape measure to check my block placement I discovered the holes I was using already had me at the three inch limit so moving the pedals forward is now no longer an option.

Ray,
I have thought about Anti-splats “Almost a 14 mod” but I have the tip up canopy not a slider. When I lower my canopy now, the seat covering edges at the top are getting slaughtered by the canopy when lowered. I’m concerned that moving the seat backs farther aft could exacerbate this problem. I’ve noticed seats backs made by Classic Aero are rounded at the top corners which I suspect is to prevent their seat edges from being torn up when the canopy is lowered. Part of my interior redo is to round my seat backs to provide additional clearance between them and my canopy.

Does anyone know whether the “Almost a 14 mod” will work with the tip up canopy? I thought it was for sliders only.
 
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Does anyone know whether the ?Almost a 14 mod? will work with the tip up canopy? I thought it was for sliders only.

Yes, It's been done.

There's been a couple different variation on moving the canopy lock bar. I don't have the info on it but I've seen pics here that show the outcome. I've considered doing it to the RV7 I'm building
 
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