Scott,
is there a kit number for this SB or do we have to order everything separately?
There is a parts kit.
Sorry, I don't know the part # so you will have to ask someone in the office.
Scott,
is there a kit number for this SB or do we have to order everything separately?
Shouldn't the rivets be installed the other way. Using the method that (when you can) the factory head always goes on side with the thinnest metal that you are assembling. I have mine installed the other way and no signs of cracks at 630 hours. Might make a difference??We will see as I will continue to inspect.
Good catch Brad...maybe so huh? The new set-up replaces the "ears" that attach to the vibrating bearing assembly with .064 aluminum instead of the original .040
That too should help with the flexing for sure.
Well John after seeing your 3rd crack starting. My idea is out the window.I guess I get to take the gas tank out again toH BOY!!
I just ordered the fix from Vans
Brad Stiefvater
Well John after seeing your 3rd crack starting. My idea is out the window.I guess I get to take the gas tank out again toH BOY!!
I just ordered the fix from Vans
Brad Stiefvater
How many hours Tony if you don't mind?
Flying since June 2010 and three hundred and five (305) hours on the plane.
Other than the recent skin to spar rivet wear SB, I don't know of any other bulletin where Van's requires (or recommends) an annual inspection of a potential SB problem. Interesting that they consider this bulletin to be of such value.
As Brad said, tape camera to a piece of fairly firm wire. Bend a 160 degree bend near the end so the camera is nearly looking back at you. Once inserted up thru rear-most inspection port and run up thru center section, you can twist as need to look as though you were in the rear looking forward toward the bracket in question. Takes a little time to bend wire and twist to get shots you want. Works. You can get this little camera into almost any part of the plane to see things. For $20 or so, handy to have around.
I finally picked up a cheap scope as you suggested. I wasted quite a bit of time poking around with the scope, until I finally figured out what you meant by going through the center section. After I figured out that I needed to place the scope through the hole that the control rods use, it was a piece of cake. Thanks John for this fantastic solution to a repetitive inspection. By the way, 240 hours and no cracks..................Tom
My CI is due in July. Will order the parts cause taking the tank out, AGAIN will make it easier to install ADS-B-Out ****!! Thought the split mod was a panacea! Thanks, Brad and John!!
The ************'s are due to the forum nazis!
We just replaced the bracket in (2009) serial #2 RV-12 with 724 TT on it. Found four cracks after getting some built up lubricating grease/dirt out of the corners. It's VERY hard to see those cracks without carefully cleaning the bracket. And its hard to clean the bracket without being a python - or taking the tank out, which we did. Pix to follow if you're interested.
Hi,
I was nervous about applying this mod, and was in two minds about the undertaking while I had the airplane in bits for the annual inspection - there was no signs of cracking, so no obvious requirement to do so at this time. Hamish offered to help and bashed out one mandrel thus committing me to complete the mod. Much of the work described below was undertaken by him, rather than myself as punishment ;-)
Having lost my 1/16 pin punch, we used a #52 drill bit as a punch to extract the rivet mandrels. It worked for the six rivets on the left and right sides of the assembly. Incidentally it also worked for the wing root mod which involved tapping out many more mandrels. I broke the drill bit, but the remaining length was long enough to complete all of these holes. Unsurprisingly the punch I had previously ordered arrived a day later!
Having drilled off the heads of the left/right rivets, we used a #30 drill bit as a punch to remove the remains of the rivets. The drill bit was short enough to get a reasonable swing with a hammer.
The problematic rivets are the four fore/aft ones. I considered attacking them from the rear (looking forward from inside the tailcone) with the 12 inch drill (I had the shop heads on the forward side of the assembly). I also considered cutting the bracket to bits with a dremel, to allow me to get at the four rivets with my 90 degree drill while remaining in cockpit area.
In the event Hamish used a strong pair of snips on the shop heads working from the cockpit area. These broke off the shop head and mandrel together. With some wiggling the bracket then broke free with the four fore/aft rivets still attached.
The replacement assembly, when correctly assembled by following the plans!!!, can be manoeuvred into place relatively easily and pulling the new rivets is the easiest part of the operation.
Having assembled the new parts incorrectly twice (in different wrong ways) I can confirm it is possible to wiggle the bracket into place even when incorrectly built ;-) My thanks to three fellow builders in the UK who offered me their kits to replace my botched up assembly job.
Now done, and I'm happy with the result.
Cheers...Keith