okay quick question. I got the left aft baffle around number 6 cylinder done and went to put it on and I don't know if I was tired or what but what am I missing for sliding that puppy around the back of the engine and around the motor mount? All I was able to do was scrap up paint.
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baffle
- Thread starter stamper
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aturner
Well Known Member
It is a bear, but it is possible to get it in there. Put some tape on the mount or any other parts you don't want scratched up. I don't recall any special tricks, just a lot of bending and a few bad words, and it pops in. Like everything else, I ended up taking it off and back on a couple of times, as I fine tuned the fit to the engine. I recall having to remove it in order to trim back the bottom edge of the aft baffle, especially the area in the center where it bolts to the brace and the other side, if that makes any sense.
#6 baffle
I too, had the problem, which is caused by the sharp corner on the bottom of the motor mount. I carefully rounded that corner off with a dremel tool, and the baffle can now slide in and out easily, without scratching the paint on the baffle. With the baffle removed, and the engine pretty much naked of all the hoses, etc. you can get up there easily with the dremel. After rounding the pointy corner, polish it smooth and dab on a little primer with a Q tip.
I too, had the problem, which is caused by the sharp corner on the bottom of the motor mount. I carefully rounded that corner off with a dremel tool, and the baffle can now slide in and out easily, without scratching the paint on the baffle. With the baffle removed, and the engine pretty much naked of all the hoses, etc. you can get up there easily with the dremel. After rounding the pointy corner, polish it smooth and dab on a little primer with a Q tip.
Actually the real secret is that you have to hold your tongue just right as you finagle the baffle into place.
Sometimes judicious use of "Special Wartime Emergency Phraseology" helps...
Once that piece was in, it stayed in.
- Roger
baffles
Hey Stamper, I also am working on my baffles. Same scenario trying to get the #6 baffle in place. You just need to bend, twist whatever it takes to get it in, but it will fit. I'd also recommend loosing the oil return line as I scraped one of mine before I got wise.
To add to the above, when I lined up the #5 & #6 baffles across the rear of the engine, the rear support bracket is 1/4" too large and forces the baffles way out of alignment. And to top that off, the little bracket behind and down low on the #5 baffle is at least 1/2" too long. Looks like I will fabricate a couple of new brackets. I have a narrow case IO540 so I'm assuming the older case is a bit different from what Vans expects. Have fun.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
Hey Stamper, I also am working on my baffles. Same scenario trying to get the #6 baffle in place. You just need to bend, twist whatever it takes to get it in, but it will fit. I'd also recommend loosing the oil return line as I scraped one of mine before I got wise.
To add to the above, when I lined up the #5 & #6 baffles across the rear of the engine, the rear support bracket is 1/4" too large and forces the baffles way out of alignment. And to top that off, the little bracket behind and down low on the #5 baffle is at least 1/2" too long. Looks like I will fabricate a couple of new brackets. I have a narrow case IO540 so I'm assuming the older case is a bit different from what Vans expects. Have fun.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
painted baffles..
Left mine raw. Easy to see corrosion. Not structural. Didn't want to remove them once installed. Baffles will soon be protected by light film of oil from normal operation. I have no place to store trophies.
-Roger
Left mine raw. Easy to see corrosion. Not structural. Didn't want to remove them once installed. Baffles will soon be protected by light film of oil from normal operation. I have no place to store trophies.
-Roger
BillL
Well Known Member
Yes, from a practical standpoint, it is not needed to paint. But - - looking at some w/o paint, the bug juice tended to leave it cruddy looking (a technical description) so, I will be alodine/painting with a epoxy or urethane primer.
That #6 or #4 baffle is tough to get in place, and removing the oil return line helped me too.
Another Baffle question
on the number 5 cylinder there is a small tab that rivets to the baffle and then bolts to the motor. unless I have my baffle in the wrong place I have to cut the predrilled tab support a lot shorter and redrill a new hole for bolting to the engine. I only have about 1" clearance and vans has the tab support about 1 3/4" long.
Did anyone else run into this.
on the number 5 cylinder there is a small tab that rivets to the baffle and then bolts to the motor. unless I have my baffle in the wrong place I have to cut the predrilled tab support a lot shorter and redrill a new hole for bolting to the engine. I only have about 1" clearance and vans has the tab support about 1 3/4" long.
Did anyone else run into this.
rv6rick
Well Known Member
I've only built a half dozen sets of RV10 baffles but.....YES, cut this down and redrill the hole where you need or make a new tab....either way is fine.
If I may, just take a breath and relax, modify/adjust parts as needed to make them fit properly....none of this is rocket science.
If I may, just take a breath and relax, modify/adjust parts as needed to make them fit properly....none of this is rocket science
.baffle mod for easy mounting
I split the baffle, added a flange and a couple of plate nuts. That way I can add the part that goes around the cylinder separately. Much easier to take the baffling on and off. I will try to add a picture when I get time to figure out how to do it.
I split the baffle, added a flange and a couple of plate nuts. That way I can add the part that goes around the cylinder separately. Much easier to take the baffling on and off. I will try to add a picture when I get time to figure out how to do it.
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