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RV-10 Pop Rivet Dimple Die Question

Brantel

Brantel

Well Known Member
My old pop rivet dimple dies are shot and never worked well for my RV7. I have no idea what brand they are but they look like super cheap junk. They are all rusted up and not worth trying to save them.

That being said, I am either going to order some from ACS who claim they are old Avery stock or some from Cleveland.

The question is:

Are there any cases where you really need a 1/8" pop rivet dimple tool on the RV10? To be honest I don't remember ever using the 1/8" one on the 7 and have a hard time imagining anywhere you would need one on the 10???

I would like to spend that $25-$30 bucks somewhere else if I don't really need them.

Thanks!

Brian C.
 
I used the 3/32 die on a handful of occasions. I don't have an 1/8" I didn't have either on the 6, but used the rivet gun. I took an old air chisel bit (same shaft arrangement) and ground the end flat and put a hole in it for the die shaft. It works fine, but you need someone to hold a bucking bar on the opposite die.

Larry
 
CS4-4 Rivets in Floor Pans

The floor pans in the -10 are installed with (a lot of) CS4-4 rivets.
 
I got an Isham kit that came with the 3/32 pop-rivet dimple tool. Yes, you do use it in a couple locations. As I recall, I used them to dimple about 16-20 holes in my build so far (I'm working on the fiberglass top now, so pretty much done with metal work). Most of the use was while building the tail feathers, flaps and ailerons, and the rest was on the fuselage. Perhaps, if you go quick-built wings and fuse, then you won't need the tool except for on the tail kit. There are some other spots where I used the Cleveland close quarters dimpling tool, for skins and such, where I didn't want to pry open the metal to use my DRDT2 and the hole was too far away for the throat on my squeezer.
 
I really do not like the pop-rivet dimple tool. It doesn't dimple well and I can't find replacement nails that are compatible with it. I've bought every nail under the sun from lowes and home-depot. They're all either too big or too small. If you search the forums you'll see others that have had the same issue.

I gave up and threw mine away.


I've been able to get everything so far (currently working on fuel tanks) with drdt-2, squeezer, and this-

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tight-Fit-Dimpling-Fixture-3_32/productinfo/DIE4263DF/#.W5FLGuhKhaQ


And this was specifically helpful for about 20 or so holes on the wings (slow build)-

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3_32-VISE-GRIP-DIMPLER/productinfo/550/#.W5FLLehKhaQ
 
On the other hand, I've built 8 airplanes using nothing BUT the pop-rivet dimpler and vice-grip dimplers. Perfect dimples every time. Find the correct nail, use pneumatic puller, adjust air pressure up slowly until the dimple is perfect. I can do a complete wing panel with 2 or 3 nails.
I will also add that I made my on dies out of stainless. 3/32, 1/8, 5/32.
 
Clarification?

Are you asking about the tool to make the correct dimple for a CS-4 (120 degree countersink) pop rivet, or a dimple tool for an AN rivet (100 degrees) that uses a pop rivet puller to compress the dies? I might've gotten the wrong end of the stick there...
If it's the former, then you'll want one to make the pop rivets lie nice'n flat in both the floor pans and the lower edge of the cabin top where the fiberglass gets pop riveted to the side skin. The plans don't specify any difference in the dimple die required for a CS-4 vs an AN rivet, so there are a lotta bumpy floors out there as a result :eek:
 
Paddy said:
Are you asking about the tool to make the correct dimple for a CS-4 (120 degree countersink) pop rivet, or a dimple tool for an AN rivet (100 degrees) that uses a pop rivet puller to compress the dies? I might've gotten the wrong end of the stick there...
If it's the former, then you'll want one to make the pop rivets lie nice'n flat in both the floor pans and the lower edge of the cabin top where the fiberglass gets pop riveted to the side skin. The plans don't specify any difference in the dimple die required for a CS-4 vs an AN rivet, so there are a lotta bumpy floors out there as a result :eek:
Click to expand...

Talking about what now is called a close quarter dimple die set that is set using a pop rivet puller.

In the past they were just called pop rivet dimple dies. Before the now common 120deg countersunk rivets.

I can see where the two can get confused.
 
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