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  #1  
Old 02-08-2015, 02:56 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
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Location: NOLA
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Default HS Flange Crack

Only 8 rivets kept the HS from being officially complete.The plans have you wait to rivet the final inboard ribs until you can take the HS out of the cradles and lay them down for better access to rivet. Even with the HS flat on the table the rivets are somewhat awkward to get to. The first rivet I drove was unacceptable and had to be drilled out. After regrouping and retooling with my offset rivet set I started to drive the new rivet. I stopped after getting the rivet partially set to check the progress. The pictures below show what I saw. The point of the bucking bar I was using must have cut right through the adjacent flange while I was riveting. Can the inboard rib be removed and replaced without drilling out the entire side of the HS? My concern is that the the way the rib is nested in the stringer assembly may prevent me from drilling out the affected rib.




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  #2  
Old 02-08-2015, 04:02 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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Certainly no expert, but I would cut that flange off and smooth the edges in place and rivet an angle to the rib duplicating that flange.
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  #3  
Old 02-08-2015, 04:18 PM
TimO TimO is offline
 
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Ron and I think alike. That's what I'd do too.
Tim
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2015, 04:31 PM
ShortSnorter ShortSnorter is offline
 
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Interesting thoughts guys, that's what makes VAF invaluable. Those single hole flanges are so pesky!!
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  #5  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:06 PM
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rv6rick rv6rick is offline
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Something to consider:

-spar/web rivets 'appear' to be overdriven, a lot.
-rivet above the rivet/flange you are questioning 'appears' to be under driven and the flange doesn't look like it's fully nested. Address.
-2 rivets up - 'appears' to be set in an oversized or oblong hole. Address.
-flange dimples 'appear' to be less than crisp, a lot.
-if you keep your bucking bar on the rivet you won't scratch the primer off of your parts

Above comments realizing that pics can be deceiving.

Response to your question: many-a-flange has been removed and replaced with a new one.

As experience is gained skill usually improves. Rivet gauges can help in the meantime.

Good luck and have fun. Slow and steady as she goes .
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Last edited by rv6rick : 02-08-2015 at 06:35 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2015, 06:38 PM
JHartline JHartline is offline
 
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Location: Carrollton, GA 5GA2
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Default Cracked flange

I had similar difficulties with these rivets. A second set of hands, an offset rivet set, and a piece of rubber tubing around the rivet tails got everything comes cinched up tight. I also put a piece of masking or duct tape around the bucking bar to keep scuffs to a minimum. A helper, in my opinion, is required to get these particular rivets set properly. Best of luck.
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2015, 08:00 AM
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miyu1975 miyu1975 is offline
 
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Default duct tape

Also, you can put small pieces of duct tape your bucking bar to be placed next to primed aluminum...this will prevent the aluminum/primer from being scratched.
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  #8  
Old 02-09-2015, 11:49 AM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Radiusing the bucking bar edges and some duct tape will also protect the primer/parts. I had to dress my tungsten bars as the edges were way to sharp. If you need that last 1/16" of the edge of the bar, there is probably something else wrong.
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Last edited by fl-mike : 02-09-2015 at 02:09 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-09-2015, 12:21 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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That bar looks more like a cut off tool than a bucking bar.
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2015, 09:03 PM
gladiator68 gladiator68 is offline
 
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Not a -14 guy but a couple observations.
Definitely use a different bucking bar.
Photos are deceiving but check your rivets on the spar. They look a little over driven.
This comes from a guys who has had his share of "redo's". Good luck
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