What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Fuselage Systems Decision Points

CharlieWaffles

Well Known Member
Anyone have pointers for considerations for the fuselage kit? I'm referring to necessary 3rd party items as well as the usual suspects for considering REPLACING a stock van's item. I'm not concerned about the cosmetic items as those are obvious to me (side panels, overhead console,etc...) but more along the lines of fuel pumps, gascolators, fuel selector, parking brakes, etc... Any items people want to share?
 
Anyone have pointers for considerations for the fuselage kit? I'm referring to necessary 3rd party items as well as the usual suspects for considering REPLACING a stock van's item. I'm not concerned about the cosmetic items as those are obvious to me (side panels, overhead console,etc...) but more along the lines of fuel pumps, gascolators, fuel selector, parking brakes, etc... Any items people want to share?


Fuel selector valve, brake lines, additional rear naca vents, side access panel for tunnel, avery fairings for rudder cables on tunnel and empennage, parking brake, firewall penetration (battery, sensor, and control cables) (don't drill the holes per plans until you make your decision on this), and access panel for step bolts are items that quickly come to mind. Also start thinking about antenna placement, so you can make access panels and doublers when it is easy.

You probably need to decide what you are going to do for an instrument panel and center console, since some options may require tunnel mods and impact where the fuel slector valve goes.

Most of the interior mods can wait until after finish kit time.
 
Thanks Bob, on the firewall issue, what are some of the decision items/products that need to be checked out? How about the brake lines? Is this the bonaco item?
 
Thanks Bob, on the firewall issue, what are some of the decision items/products that need to be checked out? How about the brake lines? Is this the bonaco item?

For the brake lines, I got mine from Bonaco. I bought my fuel lines from TS-Flightlines. Both are good vendors, but I found that Tom at Flightlines was easier to deal with and is more RV literate. I would buy all my hoses from him if I was doing it over again.

The plans call for grommets and/or plastic bushings, which are neither fire resistant or seals tight for CO.

Options are....

For battery:

From BlueSea:

2205-2207.jpg


For Control Cables, something like:

From ACS:

eyeBallsheader.gif

These require more space than the holes in the plan specify.

And for sensor cables:

From ACS:

09-02601-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Oh ya, dont forget about baggage door lock and insulation/sound proofing. If you get the typical ACS ignition switch it comes with a baggage door lock. Other people have said they just went to home depot and got a lock for a cabinet for cheap there. FYI - The fuselage kit comes with a longer locking arm for the baggage door because the one that comes with the ignition switch is too short. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/igswitches.php

Couple insulation links for consideration:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2011Individual/Cat11111.pdf
or
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/soundex.php
 
What's the current outlook on the heat selector boxes? I see some Stainless Steel ones from ACS and Vans. In some of the older threads on tunnel heat issues it was thought the basic ones were leading to the problem. But I'm not sure what the resolution turned out to be. It sounds like perhaps longer exhaust pipes and shielding the SCAT tube in the tunnel was the fix, but is the selector boxes still an issue?
 
The standard selector box does not seal very well and therefore allows hot air into the tunnel scat tube even when closed. Also, an aluminium box is going to fail in the event of a fire. :eek:

I have fitted the SS version from Plane Innovations and placed insulating mat between it and the firewall. I have also insulated the forward and bottom tunnel walls. I will also wrap the scat tube and am considering putting some heatshield on the fuel pipes once they have been leak checked. A little reticent about that one since it will make potential leaks/cracks more difficult to detect. I intend to monitor the tunnel temp with a spare OAT probe and assess further.

Finish Kit arrives in 2 weeks :D
 
And for sensor cables:

From ACS:

09-02601-1.jpg

I am at the point to order these fire proof firewall penetration kits.
Which size (1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch available) firewall penetration kit did you use for the sensor cables?
Do you need more than one firewall penetration for the sensor cables?
Where did you run the alternator positive cable? Separate to sensor cables?
Thanks.
Johan
 
I ordered the 1" and was happy I did. I have an all-glass IFR panel and I needed the room to pass all the wires. Keep in mind that you'll end up sealing the pass thrus with something like Fire Barrier 2000 so having a bigger pass thru isn't a problem. I have two of the 1" holes penetrating the FW (1 on each side). I followed Mark Cooper's (CharlieWaffles) lead and bought a Blue Sea cable pass thru that allowed the power to pass thru the FW separate from the sensor wires.

Hope this helps.
 
I am at the point to order these fire proof firewall penetration kits.
Which size (1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch available) firewall penetration kit did you use for the sensor cables?
Do you need more than one firewall penetration for the sensor cables?
Where did you run the alternator positive cable? Separate to sensor cables?
Thanks.
Johan

I installed two 3/4" penetrations. I ran sensor cables through one and mag cables through the other. Plenty of room.

Pay close attention to where you locate the penetrations and the length of your sensor cables. I had to extended a few cables because I didn't catch that issue in time. Many of the EFIS vendors provide pre-built harnesses. It's best to leave the egt and cht cables the default lengths. I put one on the left and one on the right. In retrospect, they should have both been near the pilot side. But exact location will be determined by the physical location of you engine monitor and mag switch.

I also used the blue sea bulkhead power pass through.
 
Any Pics?

Bob and David,
Thanks for replies.
Do you have pics available of where you placed the penetrations in firewall?
Johan
 
Photos are on mykitlog, see signature

Thanks Bob.
I had a look yestreday after posting here. Now that light I saw at the end of the tunnel..........man, it now looks more like a train approaching!
So much more to do....
Thanks again, very informative.
Johan
 

Thanks Mark.
What is the solenoid on the firewall for as seen in last picture?
Johan
 
Johan
As far as firewall penetration... If you are installing light speed ign you will need at least a 1 inch pass through to feed the sensor cable through because it is not recommended to remove the cable end plug. Also, we went with three pass through to allow separation of sensor and ign wires that need seperation. One other thing I have noticed...and stand to be corrected, but I think the firewall pass through need to be installed with the flange on back side of firewall.
 
Uh, the starter...

If it is the starter, that means you have a live starter cable from battery to front of firewall at all times. Seems added risk without benefit. That is reason for my question. I am close to that stage, and was wondering why and if I should plan for same.
Johan
 
Johan
As far as firewall penetration... If you are installing light speed ign you will need at least a 1 inch pass through to feed the sensor cable through because it is not recommended to remove the cable end plug. Also, we went with three pass through to allow separation of sensor and ign wires that need seperation. One other thing I have noticed...and stand to be corrected, but I think the firewall pass through need to be installed with the flange on back side of firewall.

Jack,
Thanks for heads up. I am planning on installing the EFII electronic ignition. If anyone knows what size pass-through might be needed for this system please advise. I will contact the vendor to ask that question. I have ordered two 0.75 pass throughs last night!
Cheers.
Johan
 
If it is the starter, that means you have a live starter cable from battery to front of firewall at all times. Seems added risk without benefit. That is reason for my question. I am close to that stage, and was wondering why and if I should plan for same.
Johan

The big #2 ga cable from the rear is energized when the master switch is turned on. It supplies power to the main bus and allows recharging of main battery. Yes, I would recommend installing start contactor as shown. I used Nuckolls and Van's as a guide.
 
The big #2 ga cable from the rear is energized when the master switch is turned on. It supplies power to the main bus and allows recharging of main battery. Yes, I would recommend installing start contactor as shown. I used Nuckolls and Van's as a guide.

Wayne,
The question that keeps popping into my mind is with this setup all the current flows through the master contactor when the starter is engaged. I just want to make sure that the standard master contactor can handle that amount of current. Could not find answer to this in Nucholl's book
Thanks.
Johan
 
My master solenoid can handle 200A continuously. It can not handle making or breaking the circuit with those kind of amps and it does not have too. My starter pulls over 400A for about 2 sec on a normal start, longer on a hot or flooded start. Intermittent loads such as these on the master solenoid while closed are okay.

My start solenoid on the other hand can handle 750A for 10 sec on, 20 min off for cool down.

My starter has about the same limits.

That is why I hate to hear guys cranking an engine until the battery is dead. One can damage a lot of parts.
 
Back
Top