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Vans Fuel Selector

S

szicree

Well Known Member
I'm trying to sort out my fuel system and have a question about the fuel selector supplied with the kit. It looks as though I can arrange things so that the tanks are at 180 degrees on the selector or at 90. What is the conventional wisdom on this? Also, am I the only one that gets confused with that big handle? I mean, do I pay attention to which way the handle points or to that teenie little pointer?

Steve Zicree
RV4 finishing
 
pointer...

It's up to you on the pointer. On my six, I use the teenie pointer. Left, center off, right. On the eight I'm building, Vans has you grind the teenie pointer off and use the handle to point to the tank in use.
 
Chino Tom said:
On the eight I'm building, Vans has you grind the teenie pointer off and use the handle to point to the tank in use.
Click to expand...

Is this a different valve? The one I have for my -7 only fits on the shaft one way with the tiny pointer towards the open port. I would love to be able to reverse it and will try to either modify it or find a different handle.
 
You can set it up either way just by making your placard indicate against either the handle or pointer end. On my RV8, I am using the long handle as the pointer.
To identify how the valve works, just blow into the intake port and observe which hole the air comes out for each handle setting. You can plumb it up any way you want. The provided valve has one output and three inputs. The output comes out the bottom and goes to the fuel pump. Of the three inputs, one is plugged and the other two are for L & R. VAN's RV8 plans show it mounted so that the long end of the handle can indicate L & R with the handle forward while the two aft positions would be OFF. (You could use the extra output for an aux tank.)
 
Dwg 36

Capflyer said:
Is this a different valve? The one I have for my -7 only fits on the shaft one way with the tiny pointer towards the open port. I would love to be able to reverse it and will try to either modify it or find a different handle.
Click to expand...

Capflyer, note in the plans that the fuel lines "cross under" to the opposite side of the valve. The plumbing according to plans allows you to use the handle as the indicator just like Chino Tom pointed out.

Take a look at DWG 36 or 36A Detail B (upper right). It shows the cross-under and has the instruction for grinding off the pointer to use the handle itself.

Or you could just do like many builders and blow a few hundy on an Andair valve (I didn't, the cheapo valve is juuuust fine for me).

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (793 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Ahhh...now it makes more sense. Fuel line plumbing is one of my next steps. Thanks Dan.

Mike R.
 
Vans valve

dan said:
Or you could just do like many builders and blow a few hundy on an Andair valve (I didn't, the cheapo valve is juuuust fine for me).
Click to expand...
..and how's it holding up Dan. I've seen other posts that suggest they wear out in a hundred hours or so, but you've done way more than that, haven't you? Any issues?
 
works fine

AntiGravity said:
..and how's it holding up Dan. I've seen other posts that suggest they wear out in a hundred hours or so, but you've done way more than that, haven't you? Any issues?
Click to expand...

No issues whatsoever. I will have 800 hours on the plane by the time I get home next week (flew down to Guadalajara).

I heard that older valves had a different material ball or bushing inside that got really stiff and needed service/replacement like you mentioned. But Van's apparently changed the material used to whatever is in there now. Works fine, at least it has for me.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
 
Here's a follow up on my valve question. The way things are in my 4 it would be really great if the valve operated 180 degrees opposite from now. The way it is now, it sticks out to the left and kind of interferes with my foot when getting in. The easiest way to change it is to rotate the nylon part of the valve 180 degrees on its shaft. This requires driving/drilling out a small pin. The pin looks like steel and appears to be inserted and then kinda mushroomed at the ends (sorta like a rivet). I'm hoping somebody out there knows what I'm talking about and can advise.

Steve Zicree
RV4 finishing
 
Another option is to remove the handle and file a flat on the valve stem 180 degrees from the original flat. This is what insures that the handle will only go on in one direction. I'm at the finishing kit stage and have the valve centered between the two fuel gauges right in front of the stick. I want the great big handle to point at the gauge and tank in use - not the little pointer which I've already filed off. So my choices are to either run the tank lines around to the far side of the valve and keep the handle as is. Or I can make the lines run direct to the valve and reverse the handle. If I reverse the handle I intend to fill in the original stem flat with some epoxy so that the handle can't get reversed in the future.

Alan Billings
RV-4
 
Andair Valve

I needed to use the andair valve for my 8, since I'm using the full return fuel system required by Eggenfellner. One thing I really like about this valve is it goes left-right-off. You don't have to pass through the off position to change tanks. I've heard that it is not a good idea to have a valve that goes left-off-right, since it can fail when passing through the off position. If there is a way to plumb the Van's valve differently, avoiding the off position when switching tanks, then it seems like it would be a good idea. Probably a small risk, but...
 
Mickey:

The Van's valve doesn't have to pass the off position to switch tanks. The positions (if built to plans) are: forward-left: left tank, forward-right: right tank, rear left: off, rear right: off.

I think what you're talking about is that when in the middle (between settings), the fuel flow is cut off. I played with this and when I put the handle between the left and right positions, both passageways were partly open as far as I could tell.

The handle of the Van's fuel selector is very easy to move, so I'm not worried even if there is a very slight interruption of fuel flow when switching tanks. If air enters the line it will most likely be taken care of at the gascolator (if you're installing one) anyway. I assume that the high pressure fuel pump filter assemblies will take care of air as well, but I'm not sure.
 
dan said:
I heard that older valves had a different material ball or bushing inside that got really stiff and needed service/replacement like you mentioned. But Van's apparently changed the material used to whatever is in there now. Works fine, at least it has for me.
Click to expand...


Any idea of what date defines ann older valve?

I keep hearing from "hangar pilots" (none of whom fly experimentals) that these valves sieze up usually at the worst possible moment. Any body have this experience or know of anybody who has had it. Mine has been in use for 360hrs being changed every 20 minutes. It was installed in April 2003.
 
Alan:

Geez, do I feel dumb for not thinking of that. I considered modifying or replacing the handle, and then considered turning around the valve innards, but never thought of just filing a new flat on the shaft. Hard to believe I built this whole thing and couldn't figure this one out! Thanks for the assist.

Milt:

I believe the old valves had brass insides. I can tell you that the new ones are brass outside with a plastic valve inside. The plastic piece is tapered to fit into the tapered brass valve body, and seems very unlikely to ever get stuck.

Steve Zicree
RV4 finishing
 
I'm just curious why no one uses the third input and plumbs it to do:

Both
|
Left - - Right
|
Off​

I don't have the valve since I'm not up to the fuse kit yet, but I thought I remembered seeing a diagram of how the valve worked on a website some where and that this would be possible. That would allow for 180 degree left or right selection, and no danger of getting stuck with no fuel. Maybe I'm confused....this occurs easily after a long days work (or after just waking up...or in the middle of the day...or...well, you get the point...I'm easily confused in general :) ).
 
Last edited:
John,

If you have a both position in a low winged aircraft, and one wing tank unports, the fuel system will never draw fuel from the tank which is still ported - it just continues to draw air from the unported tank.

A both position works well with a high wing gravity system, but in a low wing suction system, it does have safety concerns.

Pat
 
4kilo said:
John,

If you have a both position in a low winged aircraft, and one wing tank unports, the fuel system will never draw fuel from the tank which is still ported - it just continues to draw air from the unported tank.

A both position works well with a high wing gravity system, but in a low wing suction system, it does have safety concerns.

Pat
Click to expand...

It's not like I don't know this already...LOL. All I have to say in my defense is, "DUH" :eek:
 
old valves

The "old" valves use a brass valve body inside the unit. The one I had in the 4 was a 90 degree valve. They don't "seize up" unexpectedly. They get stiffer and stiffer over time. Naturally, if you don't take action, you will eventually be unable to turn the valve.

I have not heard of any wear or seizing of the (Nylon ?) new valves. Has anybody worn one out and had to replace it ??

John
 
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