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  #1  
Old 06-08-2018, 03:56 PM
sritchie sritchie is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 124
Default Whirlwind RV10 Spinner interfering w/ cowl... tips?

Hey all,

I'm installing my cowl and it looks like I've yet again created some extra work for myself

The whirlwind RV10 carbon spinner has a nice angle on it that is, unfortunately, different from the angle on the RV10 cowl.

Here's the interference I'm seeing:



I'm trying to create the 1/8" gap while letting the cowl sag slightly below the spinner, but the interference above is preventing this.

Should I just sand the Vans cowl far back until I can get things to fit and then rebuild later? Or with this spinner do folks just cut the lip off?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 06-08-2018, 04:41 PM
sritchie sritchie is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 124
Default

Okay, current plan (I forgot it's fiberglass!!) is to just use floxed epoxy to build up the area inside the channel, sand the **** out of things and then even out the width of the new, adjusted flange.

Engine work was fun, but time to get back into the epoxy rhythms I guess.
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2018, 05:08 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 3,183
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Why not tape some corrugated cardboard (or a similar spacer, maybe 3/8" thick) to the unfinished side of that flange. Cover it in packing tape with a nice radius to the front of the inside portion of the flange and apply wax as a mold release.

Then lay-up a new flange over your spacer. Trim off the current flange, add a layer of glass where you removed the flange, fill and sand to your taste, and voila, you're done.

Ought to take 3 evenings. The reality will be slightly different. ;-)
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  #4  
Old 06-08-2018, 05:09 PM
upperdeck upperdeck is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 97
Default

My whirlwind back plate did exactly the same thing on my RV7, except the angle matched a little better.

I built up the back side with fiberglass cut into 1" wide strips about 6" long. Once cured, I sanded ALL of the original material off until all that was left was my new layup.
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  #5  
Old 06-08-2018, 11:16 PM
sritchie sritchie is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upperdeck View Post
My whirlwind back plate did exactly the same thing on my RV7, except the angle matched a little better.

I built up the back side with fiberglass cut into 1" wide strips about 6" long. Once cured, I sanded ALL of the original material off until all that was left was my new layup.

This makes a lot of sense. I went ahead before reading this and added a thick fillet of flox and plan on sanding away down to that layer, similar to your technique.

Is it okay to JUST use the flox here or should I really have used glass strips? It seems from reading like my method is okay, just heavier than glass and maybe harder to sand. Is this right?

Thanks! Iíll probably have to build up a little more anyway with glass so maybe both will do the trick
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2018, 05:05 AM
Skysailor Skysailor is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 163
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You will want to cover the flox with two layers of glass once you have sanded to the dimensions you like. The glass will bond it to the other fiberglass of the cowl making it one strong piece. Make sure it laps over your build up and out 3/4-1" out onto the cowl fiberglass. This overlap will need to be scuffed beforehand.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2018, 05:55 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,265
Default Needs a lot of trimming

Yes, I had to significantly cut my cowling back on the RV-10 to fit the Whirlwind prop.

Vic
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