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  #21  
Old 06-06-2018, 06:59 AM
carolsyracuse carolsyracuse is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: locust grove, ga
Posts: 113
Default Electric rudder trim

http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrade...104/index.html
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  #22  
Old 06-06-2018, 07:10 AM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 1,443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mciaglia View Post
I’m confused by this set up. The tab is pronounced on the right side of the rudder, which in turn would cause a left rudder deflection as a result making most trim situations worse.

My Christen eagle and most aerobatic planes have a small
Tab on the left side of the rudder to offset the right rudder needed
To stay in trim. Am I missing something in this setup?
Put the tab on whatever side of the rudder you want. For the RV-10 the ball was just touching the left side line in cruise (as in a little left rudder needed). Other planes will be different.

Note - do not add a rudder trim tab until after very carefully rigging the plane, including the wheel pants and gear leg faiinrg. If these are off just a little, you can get half a ball out on either side. Do not think “once and done” on rigging. This can be a multi-month process.

Carl
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  #23  
Old 06-06-2018, 07:50 PM
Paddy's Avatar
Paddy Paddy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 138
Default Pictures fixed

I fixed the missing photos in post #15 if anyone's interested in seeing a version of an electrically operated spring bias design.
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  #24  
Old 06-06-2018, 08:15 PM
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CubedRoot CubedRoot is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ooltewah, TN.
Posts: 530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddy View Post
Here's how I built my electric driven spring bias rudder trim. Works well.

Nice Work!! I like this....I'm gonna have to ask for some details :-) so I can duplicate this in my RV-7.
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Lynn Dixon
RV-7 Slider -
Tail kit Completed - March 2017
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2018, 08:39 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 897
Default Or...

[IMG][/IMG]
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88

RV-10
Structure - 90% Done
Cabin Top - Aaarrghhh...
Doors - Done
On Gear
290 HP Barrett Hung
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  #26  
Old 06-07-2018, 07:47 AM
Redline5.9 Redline5.9 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Onanole, Manitoba
Posts: 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddy View Post
Here's how I built my electric driven spring bias rudder trim. Works well.


Wow, that is a really clean setup. I like the fact that a guy doesn't have to cut pieces out of the rudder and run extra wiring to the back. What type of servo are you running for it?
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2018, 08:14 AM
Paddy's Avatar
Paddy Paddy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 138
Default Rudder Trim Details

The servo used in my setup is a standard Ray Allen unit, T3-12A if I recall, the one with the long throw. The pulley in front was turned out of a piece of 6061 rod and runs on a bronze bushing captured by an AN-4 bolt through the center. The idler arm is a length of 6061 C channel and also runs on a bushing. There's a piece of 1/16" angle riveted to the underside of the tunnel between the pulley and the arm for stiffness. I bought the springs and arms from Geoff at Aerosport. The mechanism works well, I do use it in flight, especially on long climbs and descents. I like that the spring tension keeps the rudder from flopping around so much in the breeze at fuel stops, although I wouldn't walk away from the plane without the control lock installed.
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