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  #1  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:12 AM
bkervaski's Avatar
bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Default Aeroshell 100, 120 or 15w-50/w100 plus?

At 50 hours on a new IO-390, about to do an oil change to Aeroshell 100 (from 80).

Here in Alabama most of the summer is 85-100 degrees.

Right now I'm only burning about 1/4qt of 80 every 5 hours.

Based on this should my 100 hour be 15w-50, w100 Plus, or should I stick with the mineral oil?
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Last edited by bkervaski : 02-11-2019 at 10:42 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:02 AM
blastinbill blastinbill is offline
 
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Location: Vienna, Virginia
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Default Aeroshell 100

w100 Plus. An AD mineral oil with the Lycoming additive and no viscosity index improvers. All you need in temperatures like that.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:34 AM
ALagonia ALagonia is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blastinbill View Post
w100 Plus. An AD mineral oil with the Lycoming additive and no viscosity index improvers. All you need in temperatures like that.
I'm in North Georgia. Our temps are a little bit cooler. Summers range up to the 90's. Winters usually in the 30's to 40's. Do you also recommend AeroShell 100W Plus for these temperatures? I'm flying a 9 with a Barret O-360.
Thanks
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  #4  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:56 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALagonia View Post
I'm in North Georgia. Our temps are a little bit cooler. Summers range up to the 90's. Winters usually in the 30's to 40's. Do you also recommend AeroShell 100W Plus for these temperatures? I'm flying a 9 with a Barret O-360.
Thanks
Don't recommend 50 weight oil (aviation 100) at 30*. Your lycoming operating manual will give min/max temp ranges for different weight oils, but I would never use 50 weight oil at those lower temps. I live in the midwest and use 20W50 all year. The Philips 20W50 is a mineral oil, with viscosity modifiers.

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 02-11-2019 at 12:00 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:57 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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This is one of those "primer questions", but....

I switched to 15-50 Aeroshell about 500 hours ago, when I realized it was partially synthetic, no small advantage. And it already has the Lyc additive, although I'm not sure it matters in a roller cam engine.

A straight weight oil and a multigrade have the same viscosity when hot, or to be precise, when both are at some stated operating temperature. A straight weight has no lubrication advantage when hot. The multigrade pumps well in cold starts, and allows 2700 RPM at a little over 100F oil temp without triggering a high oil pressure alarm, in my case set at 100 PSI.
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  #6  
Old 02-11-2019, 12:31 PM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
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Time to switch to an AD oil per my conversations with Lycoming. They can't suggest one vs. another brand officially.

This is from Lycoming SI 1014M

When changing from straight mineral oil to ashless dispersant oil, the following precautionary steps
should be taken:
1. Do not add ashless dispersant oil to straight mineral oil. Drain the straight mineral oil from the
engine and fill with ashless dispersant oil.
2. Do not operate the engine longer than five hours before the first oil change.
3. Check all oil filters and screens for evidence of sludge or plugging. Change oil every ten hours if
sludge conditions are evident. Repeat 10 hour checks until clean screen is noted, then change oil at
recommended time intervals.
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  #7  
Old 02-11-2019, 12:44 PM
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RV8JD RV8JD is offline
 
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Here is Lycoming SI No. 1014M, "Lubricating Oil Recommendations".

And here is "AeroShell Piston Engine Oils at a Glance" blurb that describes the differences in their oils, including the additive package in their Plus and Multi-Vis oils.

Note that AeroShell's additive package is not equivalent to CamGuard. Many recommend using CamGuard with any oil you choose to use.
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Last edited by RV8JD : 02-11-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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  #8  
Old 02-11-2019, 01:04 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV8JD View Post
Note that AeroShell's additive package is not equivalent to CamGuard. Many recommend using CamGuard with any oil you choose to use.
...while others might say save your money.

From the Camguard website (note the test procedure):

https://aslcamguard.com/humidity-cabinet/

However, a simple home test says:

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...3&postcount=58
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  #9  
Old 02-11-2019, 01:11 PM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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So that's concerning. At 50 hours should I go ahead and switch to w100 plus instead of the 100 straight mineral oil to avoid any build up that a later switch to w100 plus may dislodge?
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  #10  
Old 02-11-2019, 01:50 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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AD oil is important for holding debris in suspension. Straight mineral oil will hold MUCH less debris and once saturated, all additional debris will settle out as sludge. Lyc's put a LOT of debris in the oil and it is the reason for such frequent oil chnages. You need to switch to AD as soon as breakin is done. Sludge is the cost of hanging on longer than necessary, thinking if a little is good more is better for your break in process.

I follow ECIs guideline and breakin with Philips 20W50. It has no additives other than the AD package and viscosity modifiers. It is mostly the anti-friction modifiers that will interfere with your ring seating and lifter break in and the philips have none.

Larry
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Last edited by lr172 : 02-11-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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