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  #11  
Old 02-11-2019, 09:31 AM
MS1095 MS1095 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: West Chester, PA
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I am a fan of the no hole yoke it tight spots.
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  #12  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:01 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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I have ground the nose of my yokes to match the radius of the largest diameter dies I have.
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2019, 01:42 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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^^^^ Brantel speaks from experience.

Grind that nose.
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2019, 01:58 PM
rapid_ascent rapid_ascent is offline
 
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I find that I have more control with my Tatco hand squeezer. In general I try to use it versus my pneumatic squeezer. Also, make sure you check the length of your exposed rivet with a gauge. A rivet that is too long will bend over. For -4 rivets I have to use my pneumatic squeezer.

When using the pneumatic squeezer make sure you keep the plunger aligned with the axis of the rivet. You can feather the trigger a little to position the squeezer slightly but it can be difficult. Usually you hit the trigger and you get what you get. If you have the plunger side on the flush side of the rivet it takes care and practice to get a perfect shop head. Try feathering the trigger so that you can make sure you are still aligned along the axis of the rivet as you get close to compressing the rivet.
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  #15  
Old 02-11-2019, 03:28 PM
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maniago maniago is offline
 
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Kudos to you for sticking with the squeezer for so long.

But the gun and a tungsten is way more forgiving (better?) for -4 rivets and larger. I only use my squeezer on -3s and smaller (if I use it at all), and yeah everything the guys said above will help you if you remain wedded to your squeezer.....but you dont have to.
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Last edited by maniago : 02-11-2019 at 03:33 PM.
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2019, 03:39 PM
Aero_Octaveus Aero_Octaveus is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Edmonton, AB
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I too sometimes have to struggle with my squeezer. Sometimes its a bit temperamental. (I too am using the Isham adjustable rivet set) I have good success with setting AN426 rivets as getting a good set is all in getting the die perfectly flat on the factory head, and making sure the rivet tail is centered on the die before squeezing. Squeezing AN470 rivets are sometimes a bit more tricky as it is more difficult to get the cupped rivet set sitting perpendicular and square on the factory head. No question that I have better success bucking (And you become a master if you skin the wings yourself)but it can be a bit hard on light material with a 3x gun. Sometimes I've started bucking the AN470 rivet with a hit or two and then squeezed it to finish it off. Always turns out perfect that way.
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2019, 05:23 AM
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djborko11 djborko11 is offline
 
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I too had the same problem starting out. One thing that helped is to secure the work piece so it can't move when you squeeze. Another tip I came across here is to the scuff the surface of the set, a sidewalk worked great.
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:09 AM
control control is offline
 
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Like said, the heads look fine, but do not be afraid to hit the front of the yoke with the grinder. It is the aircraft that should look great when you are done, not the tools
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  #19  
Old 02-12-2019, 07:17 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
I have ground the nose of my yokes to match the radius of the largest diameter dies I have.
I absolutely hate grinding on a nice tool, but in this case it is/was necessary. It will not fit or leave a mark otherwise. The material removed is not a stressed area.
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  #20  
Old 02-12-2019, 08:02 AM
bobnoffs bobnoffs is offline
 
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with my pneumatic squeezer i have noticed that setting the rivet with the face of the die perfectly square to the shop end of the rivet does not make as nice a finished rivet as slightly moving the back of the gun in the direction of the closed side of the c yoke. i suppose this is because of a little flex in the 3''
3'' yoke.
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