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  #11  
Old 02-04-2018, 11:32 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erimo View Post
Hi Scott,

My engine is know unpacked and I started to prepare it (section 43). The ports are equipped but I didn't see any information about oil drain valve and where to install it, just about sniffle valve with small port. When I read Lycomming manual, the horizontal sump is not the same of mine and the manual version is 01/01/2017 !!!.
I missed something ?
An oil quick drain is a builders choice option. It is not included in the FWF kit (or detailed in the plans).
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Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #12  
Old 02-07-2018, 05:52 PM
GigAir GigAir is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 47
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Scott,

I am sure you are an expert at removing the bottom cowling, as you say, in 10 minutes. I would like to hear what techniques, steps, lessons learned you may have for re-installing the RV-14a bottom cowling. I have only 56 hours on my aircraft, and have had the bottom cowl off several times, however it remains to be a major struggle, to get it re-installed, even with two sets of capable hands. I know you probably have it down to a science. Thank you!

Greg Novotny
RV-14a N14ZP
Tacoma Narrows (KTIW)
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  #13  
Old 02-11-2019, 09:14 AM
bkervaski's Avatar
bkervaski bkervaski is online now
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 936
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Quote:
I would like to hear what techniques, steps, lessons learned you may have for re-installing the RV-14a bottom cowling.
Was reading about quick oil drains and figured I'd add something to this ... our painter (Evoke Aviation/Plane Schemer) thought us a great technique.

You will need several plastic folders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WKZ6KI4

Use these folders with some masking tape to create shaped templates for the various areas that may touch such as the cowl to spinner area.

These folders will not scratch your paint and provide a slick surface to work with.

The only other procedural thing they thought us is to pull the bottom canopy sides a bit and allow them to go past the fuselage on the sides. This lets you get a better angle. Use masking tape and/or folders on the fuse here to make sure you don't scratch anything.

These folders are also great for installing and removing the intersection fairings.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 02-11-2019 at 09:17 AM.
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  #14  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:02 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
Was reading about quick oil drains and figured I'd add something to this ... our painter (Evoke Aviation/Plane Schemer) thought us a great technique.

You will need several plastic folders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WKZ6KI4

Use these folders with some masking tape to create shaped templates for the various areas that may touch such as the cowl to spinner area.

These folders will not scratch your paint and provide a slick surface to work with.

The only other procedural thing they thought us is to pull the bottom canopy sides a bit and allow them to go past the fuselage on the sides. This lets you get a better angle. Use masking tape and/or folders on the fuse here to make sure you don't scratch anything.

These folders are also great for installing and removing the intersection fairings.
I have used similar technic for years with great success. I used a large sheet of paper, cut to size and shape for the spinner area and had it laminated for less than a dollar at local OfficeMax. I now have another sheet that protects the gear leg fairing. For the sides of the fuse, I use a 2" wide plumber tape.
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