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  #11  
Old 11-23-2017, 09:36 AM
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N546RV N546RV is offline
 
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Speaking only for myself (but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing AX-O is doing): I use the NAS1097AD-3-X rivets for nutplate attachment. So it's still a #40 hole, but with a smaller countersink needed than if I was using a "regular" flush rivet. The countersink is shallow enough that I generally do it by hand; it just takes a few turns of the deburring tool.
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  #12  
Old 11-23-2017, 09:50 AM
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maniago maniago is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N546RV View Post
Speaking only for myself (but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing AX-O is doing): I use the NAS1097AD-3-X rivets for nutplate attachment. So it's still a #40 hole, but with a smaller countersink needed than if I was using a "regular" flush rivet. The countersink is shallow enough that I generally do it by hand; it just takes a few turns of the deburring tool.
Exactly what I do. Deburring tool will make the proper depth counter sink hole and you can just get away with it in .020 skin if youre wicked careful. Funny thing tho, my last order of 1097s from Vans was 1 lb of rivets. They called me and asked if Id flipped my lid. Clearly I suck at building if I need that many. The young lady had not heard of using them for nutplates, so we had a good laugh. In anycase, that order was my 3rd 1097 order, each bigger than the last and I finally got fed up ordering the things so ordered enough for the next two planes nutplates!
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2017, 11:56 AM
Christopher Murphy Christopher Murphy is offline
 
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Default If its an oversize rivet?

If its an oversized shank how does it go into the #40 hole on the nutplate and if the head is undersize how does it fill a normal #40 countersink or dimple?

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  #14  
Old 11-23-2017, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher Murphy View Post
If its an oversized shank how does it go into the #40 hole on the nutplate and if the head is undersize how does it fill a normal #40 countersink or dimple?

Cm
Oversize shank = undersize head. The NAS1097-AD3 3/32" rivets have a smaller head than regular AD3 rivets.
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  #15  
Old 11-23-2017, 03:23 PM
rockwoodrv9 rockwoodrv9 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N546RV View Post
Speaking only for myself (but I'm pretty sure this is the same thing AX-O is doing): I use the NAS1097AD-3-X rivets for nutplate attachment. So it's still a #40 hole, but with a smaller countersink needed than if I was using a "regular" flush rivet. The countersink is shallow enough that I generally do it by hand; it just takes a few turns of the deburring tool.
Thanks for the info. Now I have it figured out.
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  #16  
Old 11-23-2017, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher Murphy View Post
If its an oversized shank how does it go into the #40 hole on the nutplate and if the head is undersize how does it fill a normal #40 countersink or dimple?

Cm
Yeah, its oversized for a -2 rivet hole that you goofed on. Except we never build with -2 rivets; we use -3s, 4s and 5s. IOW, it has a 426AD-2 head with a -3 rivet shank.
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  #17  
Old 11-23-2017, 05:18 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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With a small diameter female dimple die, you can dimple the nut plate holes and the skin. I found that doing that actually helps keep the nutplate screw hole aligned with the hole in the skin. No special rivets needed.
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  #18  
Old 11-23-2017, 06:12 PM
Larco Larco is offline
 
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HOLD ON? I have used the small head oops rivet for nut plates as well for years BUT I think the oops rivets Vince is offering is NOT that rivet. It is a standard head 3/32 or 1/8 size head with a over sized shank. Instead of an 1/8th in shank on a 3/32 head oops rivet it now is available in a smaller than 1/8 shank requiring a smaller oversized hole. If I'm wrong, pound away. :-)
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  #19  
Old 11-23-2017, 09:19 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larco View Post
HOLD ON? I have used the small head oops rivet for nut plates as well for years BUT I think the oops rivets Vince is offering is NOT that rivet. It is a standard head 3/32 or 1/8 size head with a over sized shank. Instead of an 1/8th in shank on a 3/32 head oops rivet it now is available in a smaller than 1/8 shank requiring a smaller oversized hole. If I'm wrong, pound away. :-)
Thanks Larry. You are exactly correct. I guess I should have made this clear and we could have avoided the thread drift! My bad.

The rivets in question here are NOT NAS1097 series and are not worth a darn for installing nutplates. They are for fixing a goofed rivet WITHOUT drilling it all the way up to the next rivet size... thereby not needlessly enlarging the rivet hole. A much better fix in my humble opinion.

Mini-Oops Size - Repairs this Rivet - Mini-Oops shank diam. - Original Rivet Diam.

NAS1241AD3-3.... AN426AD3-3.................... 7/64"...........................3/32"
NAS1241AD3-4.... AN426AD3-4.................... 7/64"...........................3/32"
NAS1241AD4-4.... AN426AD4-4.................... 9/64"............................1/8"
NAS1241AD4-5.... AN426AD4-5.................... 9/64"............................1/8"

Clear as mud now!

Sorry about the table format scrunching. I think you can figure it out though.

Anyway, get them from Blake at www.flyboyaccessories.com
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Last edited by vfrazier : 11-23-2017 at 09:24 PM.
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2017, 09:02 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
 
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Slightly swelling a rivet is helpful in assembly when skins (particularly "formed" shikns) don't fit "exactly."

You can either pre-swell, or insert and "swell" (takes practice). Then follow up by "drawing" the skin together with a bucking bar that's been countersunk with a larger center hole. VERY light, very slow tapping with the rivet gun will pull the skins together and then you can drive the rivet in full.
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