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  #11  
Old 03-01-2015, 05:30 PM
dspender dspender is offline
 
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Location: Bay City, MI
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Bob that was my problem. I did not realize that the sensor begins somewhat away from the pin so that when the magnet is set in position it does open the circuit but the circuit does close once the switch is rotated back toward the pin. I think that took me three hours to figure out the correct way to do it. Not the instructions problems because they are excellent.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2018, 06:07 AM
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steve murray steve murray is offline
 
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Is the 10 Latch indicator light still there, I am finalizing my wire pulls and cannot find it in the plans?? Can someone point me in the right section of the plans?
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2018, 08:52 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve murray View Post
Is the 10 Latch indicator light still there, I am finalizing my wire pulls and cannot find it in the plans?? Can someone point me in the right section of the plans?
Electrical wiring is in the optional plans, not the default standard plans. If you have the CD, you can see the option plans. They aren't included as part of the standard kits.

I would highly recommend pulling a wire to drive either a dedicated LED or an annunciator input on your EFIS.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2018, 10:45 AM
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steve murray steve murray is offline
 
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Thanks Bob, appreciated

Steve
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2018, 01:36 PM
jacoby jacoby is offline
 
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If you're going to run Dynon, this thread may help: http://dynonavionics.com/cgi-bin/yab...1400098744/6#6

You'd just need to figure out the switch placement. Based on what they're saying, the Dynon alerts on open state + RPM. If you ran a microswitch you could run a couple of LED indicators on the NC side and hook the Dynon to the NO side. When the doors close the NC side will open, turning off the light and the NO side will close, giving signal to the EFIS.
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  #16  
Old 09-15-2018, 05:48 AM
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steve murray steve murray is offline
 
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Sweet....! , if I can have Dynon manage this through the EFIS, that is much simpler. Does anybody have a recommendation\part number for a microswitch they used on their doors vs the Van's reed switch? Much appreciated

Steve



Quote:
Originally Posted by jacoby View Post
If you're going to run Dynon, this thread may help: http://dynonavionics.com/cgi-bin/yab...1400098744/6#6

You'd just need to figure out the switch placement. Based on what they're saying, the Dynon alerts on open state + RPM. If you ran a microswitch you could run a couple of LED indicators on the NC side and hook the Dynon to the NO side. When the doors close the NC side will open, turning off the light and the NO side will close, giving signal to the EFIS.
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  #17  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:39 AM
MConner MConner is offline
 
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As a corporate jet jock and RV-10 owner, I am used to door warning lights but I don’t understand the need for a light in my -10 to indicate if a door is open or closed.

It is in sight and reach and all I need to do is verify handle position and push on the door to verify it is closed and latched.
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
Electrical wiring is in the optional plans, not the default standard plans. If you have the CD, you can see the option plans. They aren't included as part of the standard kits.

I would highly recommend pulling a wire to drive either a dedicated LED or an annunciator input on your EFIS.
Bob, the wiring was not on the plans CD/DVD I got from Vans. It also was not in the OP-xx set, and is not on OP-37 the electrical drawings.

Perhaps you have to buy the optional kit to get the schematic?

PS Doesn't bother me though, I'm wiring up micro-switches to LED indicators installed in one of Steve Melton's 3D printed parts.
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  #19  
Old 09-15-2018, 10:53 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MConner View Post
As a corporate jet jock and RV-10 owner, I am used to door warning lights but I don’t understand the need for a light in my -10 to indicate if a door is open or closed.

It is in sight and reach and all I need to do is verify handle position and push on the door to verify it is closed and latched.
Not at all correct.

The RV-10 doors can easily appear shut if the forward pin is in but the rear pin is out (as in the door is racked and the rear pin is outside the door frame). RV-10 doors have been lost in flight because of this design issue.

Install the switches and have all four in series to a warning light - most use a indicator input on their EFIS. On my SkyView the light is green if all four pins are in, red if any pin is out. To do it right, install the cam lock door handle mod as well: https://planearound.com/shop?olsPage=t%2Frv10

Carl
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  #20  
Old 09-15-2018, 12:35 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
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+1.
1. I never allow a passenger to close a door. I load right side first, then I close the door from the outside. I pretend to be a gentleman, helping them in, but really I’m up there to close the door myself.
2. On my run up checklist:”Check doors properly latched”. As Carl explained, pushing near the front is not sufficient. I contort my body around to look between the seats at the aft right door, to confirm it’s pulled in. Left door is easier, but you still have to look back.
3. I do have the warning lights.
4. Remind yourself, “If a door opens, let it go.” There’s been one fatality when the pilot tried to save the door, and lost control of the plane. Of course this has happened on normally certifed aircraft too.
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