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  #11  
Old 09-14-2018, 05:54 AM
djborko11 djborko11 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: East Aurora, NY
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Congratulations on deciding on a RV-14. I've just started the RV-14 Empennage myself, currently finishing up the rudder.

I've decided to go with the Sherwin Williams P60G2 primer. It can be a bit tricky until you learn how to apply it properly, but it goes on nice, is amazingly durable and looks nice. I'm applying a very light coat and only areas that have metal to metal contact (rib to skin). Good luck ....
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2018, 07:50 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mturnerb View Post
A reasonably safe/less messy option is to brush or roll on the Sherwin Williams "wash primer" that Van's uses in the quickbuilds (P60G2 I think).
I'm using Sherwin Williams wash primer on my 10. I like it a lot! I haven't tried brushing or rolling, I spray mine. Here's why it's been great for me:
1. Self etching - Just clean parts with acetone and spray!. No need to manually etch, which is a HUGE time saver. Self etching was the key for my choice to use this product over some others.
2. Easy to spray, very forgiving.
3. Tough as nails. Once fully cured (about 24 hours) it can be dimpled.
4. Fast drying. Takes about 3 minutes to dry to touch. I usually let set 24 hours before riveting (to let it fully cure) but can be handled very quickly. Great for when I have a lot of parts to do at once and can't fit them all on rack at same time.

Here's a link to their Product Data Sheet:
https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPD...S&prodno=P60G2
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Building RV10
N783V - Reserved
Flying Mooney M20J
Emp Kit Completed, Section 29 done, Tail Cone Attached, QB Wings delivered and stored for now.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:49 AM
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kiljoy kiljoy is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: San Francisco
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+! on Duplicolor rattle can for internal priming. If you can wait and prime post dimpling, etc then I love the can. The only hard part is while its dry to the touch in 5 minutes the waiting the 3 days for it to properly harden seems like a patience test.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2018, 11:36 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,000
Default P60G2

+1 on P60G2.
Prep is key. Surface must be clean and free of aluminum oxide. Water break surface.
Lots of ways to do it but I used Bon Ami and scotchbrite.
If you have to spray indoors, build a spray booth and vent the fumes outside. I used shower curtains hung from conduits placed on garage door frame. It was quick to set up and take down. A bilge blower hooked to a dryer vent hose vented fumes out through an exterior wall mounted dryer vent.
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  #15  
Old 09-15-2018, 07:55 PM
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bk1bennett bk1bennett is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Sachse, TX
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I have used both rattle cans and Stewart Systems. I am very happy with Stewart Systems. It was much easier than I thought it would be. Adhesion ad durability are very good. Cleanup is a snap. And the environmental benefits are great. Follow the directions and you will see good results!
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  #16  
Old 09-18-2018, 11:17 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbs View Post
Thanks guys for the input on priming. Still, I'm no further ahead on a decision. I may just order a can of Stewart's system and compare with a rattle can. I have access to some professional aircraft maintenance people who work on airliners. May seek their opinion. My own experience is moving my old 30 year old piper 180 from Regina Sask. to Boca Raton FL and watching the interior skin get a "whitish" coating on it within a year of leaving it on the ramp in Pompano.
The transport category aircraft makers use different variants of two-part epoxy primers that contain chromates. Same for the overhaul and repair stations. Akzo-Nobel is a big player in this market, but other manufacturers make similar products. They use slightly different formulations for different areas (e.g. interior vs. exterior prime), but the EAB market has no need for such segmentation. I think a chromate based primer is going to be the best performer, but it carries potentially significant health hazards if you don't have the proper protective equipment.
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  #17  
Old 09-19-2018, 12:46 PM
dbs dbs is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: BC
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Hmmm, I think based on the discussion I may go with P60G2. Just exactly how toxic is this stuff if I use a small booth made from carboard and vent it using a fan to the outside. Is it flammable around an electric fan or heater?
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  #18  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:44 PM
coffeeguy coffeeguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Lake in the Hills, IL
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+1 for the Stewarts primer. I liked the fact that it was waterborne and had no nasty solvents, especially if I wanted to use it in the basement. I didn't have to worry about my furnace or water heater shutting off or worse. Another nice feature is because it comes in a quart can I can stir it up and use it straight out of the can with a foam brush. Great for small spur of the moment parts and jobs or touch ups.
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  #19  
Old 09-20-2018, 08:18 AM
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rvanstory rvanstory is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: New Braunfels
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbs View Post
Hmmm, I think based on the discussion I may go with P60G2. Just exactly how toxic is this stuff if I use a small booth made from carboard and vent it using a fan to the outside. Is it flammable around an electric fan or heater?
Here's a link to data sheet. Not sure how to interpret VOC number???

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPD...S&prodno=P60G2

As far as how flammable, not really sure. I spray mine outside. Since it drys so quickly, I can do so and not worry about too much foreign stuff getting in it.
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Building RV10
N783V - Reserved
Flying Mooney M20J
Emp Kit Completed, Section 29 done, Tail Cone Attached, QB Wings delivered and stored for now.
Dues Happily Paid 2018
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